Diesel Leaks Everywhere

[Mattyb]

Yeah I knew it wouldn't be that easy lol

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by Mattyb

Well it appears that no one in town has these washers. Am going to try reheating them and dropping in water to red often as one bloke suggested. See what happens

I took another look at your original photos.

Your close up shot is a flare fitting. The forward one looks misaligned. If you get leaks form a flare fitting you can sometimes polish both the flare and the seat and make them useful again.

They will tolerate some misalignment but it looks like you are at the limit. When the tube starts to chafe on the edge of the nuts hole you can even get a wear through leak.

Loosen both ends and see if you can work out a better alignment when you get it back together. Also these paired tubes usually have supports along the way and appears yours has none. Not an immediate problem but vibration can and will eventually work harden the tubes and they can crack.

Here is a shot of my fuel supply tubes with a support for even a very short run. Also a shot of the ball end of the flare fitting. Minor scuffing on these surfaces will be polished before reassembly with crocus cloth or 1600 sand paper.

Many folks will see a leak at the top of this fitting and just try to tighten more. The seal is actual the ball to flare so you should disassemble and clean up the ball and flare.

In a pinch you can bodge up 2 adel clamps, one around each tube and bolted together to provide some support. Be careful over time, if the rubber deteriorates and you get metal to metal you can cut the tube through - yikes...

Depending on the run (and yours appears long) you might also find a convenient engine bolt you can attach it to and provide more support.

[Mattyb]

Yep they definately need some attention. I know which ones u are talking about but the main one leaking is the one that has the bolt with a hole in it that goes through the end of the tube. I think it's a matter of just getting the proper sized copper washer from the city then moving on to the next part, then the next part etc etc. the good thing is she still was running well apparently this engine came out of a life boat and had little use but who really knows.

[charliehows]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

" used thread tape on all nut connections,"
Be very careful about that. As the folks who make it will tell you, if that tape shreds off just a little bit, on the ends of the thread or inside the threads when it is being redone, the little shreds will migrate inside the fuel system and eventually hit the high pressure pump--where they will cause a very expensive pump failure. Only use thread tape on the far side of a fuel filter than can catch those shreds before they can jam into anything. Pipe dope sometimes is a better solution, other times nothing should be used and the fitting itself is supposed to compress and seal one way or another.

Plastic washers sound like they should work. I noticed that on cars "they" all use plastic washers on the oil drain plug these days, the old metal-on-metal just isn't being one anymore, use once and throw away.

yeah quite right, like i said, its like brain surgery, you got to make sure nothing gets in the system. Just make sure when you wind on the tape its clear of the top of the thread by a couple rows. Also when removing make damn sure all the old stuff comes out. I forgot to mention - i also replaced my fuel taps, they were 30 years old and it only cost $30 for a pair of new ones...

[perchance]

Originally Posted by Mattyb

Yep they definately need some attention. I know which ones u are talking about but the main one leaking is the one that has the bolt with a hole in it that goes through the end of the tube. I think it's a matter of just getting the proper sized copper washer from the city then moving on to the next part, then the next part etc etc. the good thing is she still was running well apparently this engine came out of a life boat and had little use but who really knows.

The dreaded Banjo leak. Try this: a piece of fine sandpaper on a flat surface and polish both sides of the washers, anneal and see if it gets you going. You did say you had two weeks to wait for new ones. Proper wrenches to do this kind of work are essential.

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by perchance

The dreaded Banjo leak. Try this: a piece of fine sandpaper on a flat surface and polish both sides of the washers, anneal and see if it gets you going. You did say you had two weeks to wait for new ones. Proper wrenches to do this kind of work are essential.

Ahh... Forgot that little trick.

Can work in a pinch - Based on the condition of the washers (see his photo) he'd need to go pretty aggressive at first and get all the old grooving off.

Flat surface to sand against is key.

Good idea.

[Mattyb]

Yeah that's what one of the guys in a local shop suggested. The thing I don't get though is that I found some copper washers in the auto store and the internal diameter is exactly the same but they are a bit bigger externally, you can see one of them in the pic. I would have thought it would still create a seal? Or is the external diameter make that much difference.

[Ex-Calif]

Check the lips of the banjo housings for chips and smoothness.

It's hard to tell in mine but there is a raised sharp lip that "cuts" the seal.

The washers have to be soft or they won't work.

[Mattyb]

Well I finally found a place that had proper "seal washers" is what they call them here. I can see what u guys were saying now. These seal copper washers are pretty soft and the ones that I had tried to use were heaps to hard looking at it now. The only draw back...... Had to buy the whole box of assorted washers for $85 lol so if anyone needs some copper washers let me know and I will do a good price thanks guys I hope this will solve it. Will replace all of them while I am at it

[Mattyb]

You wouldn't believe it. Changed out the washers, standing there all proud of my accomplishment and then notice a small leak on top of the fuel filter casing. Lucky I bought so many different size washes thinks me gee the screw is really loose actually, actually this is where a lot of the fuel could be coming from. Take screw out and the thread comes with it!!!! Previous owner bloody threaded it! So ordered a whole new housing and filter. At least it's all new now.

The other thing I am wondering is how do people turn off their engine, this is my second boat that u turn off by pushing back the throttle arm. Is there any reason I can't get a fuel solenoid out of a car and put it in with the fuel line on this engine and use it as an engine cutoff?

[charliehows]

mine turns off by throttling back, works fine the only pita is it would be nice to have a stop in the idle position so you dont cut it off by mistake.

[estarzinger]

Originally Posted by Mattyb

The other thing I am wondering is how do people turn off their engine, this is my second boat that u turn off by pushing back the throttle arm. Is there any reason I can't get a fuel solenoid out of a car and put it in with the fuel line on this engine and use it as an engine cutoff?

In fact it should have a fuel cut off switch - either a solenoid or a manual pull cutoff.

[shamrock]

Some engines, mine included do not have a stopr lever and the throttle control on the injector pump travels to a "stop" position which completely shuts off fuel. Mine was stuck in the stop position and I can imagine it just as easily not being able to travel to stop because of build up. Try pulling the injector pump and making sure that control is sliding freely all the way to stop.