Diesel Additives ?

[shorebird]

Originally Posted by psneeld

A lot of people have been trying to communicate that the condensation "crisis" is overblown. More and more people are leaving their boat gasoline tanks empty over the winter because of the ethanol scare. In the spring they find so little water the average water separating filter will take care of it or the fresh ethanol will absorb it.

The water itself isn't the problem, the discussion was about diesel fuel, not gasoline, which, in the presence of water, promotes the growth of colonies of bacteria, mold, and other micro-organisms which can contaminate fuel, clog filters and even corrode through metal tanks. Even a small amount of water can accumulate over a period of time, and cause sludge build-up.

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by shorebird

The water itself isn't the problem, the discussion was about diesel fuel, not gasoline, which, in the presence of water, promotes the growth of colonies of bacteria, mold, and other micro-organisms which can contaminate fuel, clog filters and even corrode through metal tanks. Even a small amount of water can accumulate over a period of time, and cause sludge build-up.

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[2007.pierre]

Originally Posted by mikefossl

Are there any fuel or oil additives recommended for marine diesels?

A good biocide would do the job to a certain level of contamination. 1 or 2 quarts of denatured alchool would take care or any water. If the boat is aged, I would empty the tank on dry dock, clean the tank than put the fuel back through a filter. Installind a decanter with glass boowl before the prefilter on included in the prefilter like Raccor, is the best way to know the status of your fuel.

[Nicholson58]

we all really need to use an old winmeker's tool, the thief, to check the bottom most corners of the tanks. If the water is removed so is the problem. This is really an easy one, no West System, no hired goons. Just do the inspection. Unfortunately, it is also just as easy to ignore it and complain about it.

[Hud3]

I used to sample the bottom of my diesel tank with a copper tube attached to the hose of one of those squeeze bulbs that are used on outboard motor fuel tanks. A few squeezes of the bulb would bring up a pint or so of fuel from the nether-most region of the tank into a clear plastic cup, which I could then inspect for contaminants.

[captain58sailin]

That is a great Idea Hud3, I have largish tanks and I know they have water in the bottom. That makes for an easy controlled siphon, maybe put a small butterfly valve on the end to stop the flow. My best defense against water and rising fuel prices has been to keep the tanks full as possible. Also good idea to replace the "O" rings on the deck fittings every year, cheap insurance.

[mrohr]

I keep a small tube of vaseline that is handy near the fuel fill and always smear the threads before replacing.I change the o ring once a year and have read of some that do it every fuel up.
No problems since.

[Irish rambler]

I think guys that you need to look at the root cause of the problem. Water in your fuel tank. Microbes multiply at the fuel water interface. To elimate the problem remove the tank, fit a sump and water drain. Once a month or 24 hrs after refilling, simply crack the valve in the bottom of your fuel tank and drain off any water. If you want a cetane booster simply put in Paraffin on a ratio of no more than 75% diesel to 25% paraffin.
Not being a smart ar..e, I worked in Multi-Fuel diesels R&D at Rolls Royce.
The original Diesel engine designed by Rudolph Diesel was built to run on peanut oil, and so can yours..

[moggie]

Due to the tree huggers there is now less lubricants in your fuel (sulphur etc.) All diesel engines appreciate a little extra lube. (2t oil @ 200/1) your engine will sound a lot smoother after a tank full ( read 4X4 mag Aus, diesel engines)
I do it on my truck and my boat, both my engines have really improved.

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by moggie

Due to the tree huggers there is now less lubricants in your fuel (sulphur etc.) All diesel engines appreciate a little extra lube. (2t oil @ 200/1) your engine will sound a lot smoother after a tank full ( read 4X4 mag Aus, diesel engines)
I do it on my truck and my boat, both my engines have really improved.

2t oil? Not sure what that is in US...but if you read actual 3rd party studies...not too many oils if any help...most hurt lubricity in diese;

[Irish rambler]

psneeld. I would be pretty sure that's Two Stroke oil.

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by Irish rambler

psneeld. I would be pretty sure that's Two Stroke oil.

what I was thinking and for sure it's not a good idea unless you check with the engine manufacturer...reports show thatbit may be OK withnolder engines but a big NoNo with newer ones (ULSD compliant)

here's the test result

7) Super Tech Outboard 2-Cycle TC-W3 Engine Oil

Unconventional

(Not ULSD compliant, may damage 2007 or newer systems)

HFRR 474

, 162 micron improvement
200:1 ratio
16.64 oz/tank

$1.09/tank

the 162 micron improvement is over plain diesel and comes in 7th overall which isn't bad compared to many "top shelf" additives.

[Irish rambler]

If a diesel engine is set up correctly and is supplied with clean fuel and air and properly serviced, unless your engine is working outside it's design parameters (for example arctic, underground mines etc) why do you need additives ?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it !

[bobconnie]

as Irish Rambler said !use clean marine diesel! not the stuff from the service station!! if its RED its GOOD if your tanks are clean, and have a proper drain valve to get rid of any water, your good to go and do not need additives! If you keep your tanks clear of water you wont need stuff to kill algee ! just my 2 cents !! Bob and Connie

[four winds]

USLD, ultra low sulfur diesel and the year 2007 keep popping up.

Isn't that a reference to the fuel, not the engines?

Did engines change in 2007 also?

In the US isn't off-road, red dyed diesel regular old style fuel? That's what I've been fueling with so far.