De-Winterizing a Raw-Water-Cooled Yanmar

[GaiaOrion]

Hey,

In prep for launch, could you help me; boat is on the hard, so how do you get water into the engine to flush out the antifreeze? Bypass the shutoff valve on the through hull to engine hose and tie into a bucket of h2o?

Any other tips you can give would be great, ie wher the filters are (fuel and water, impeller etc.? I cannot find a decent diagram online and haven't time to order a Clymer/hanes.

As well, on raising the mast, aside from using the Gin Pole (sp?) what do I need to prep? Should I have the stanchions and life lines up? extra couplers...pliers? tools?
I know(think ) I have three shrouds, there are three deck fittings (trm?) on each sie, and there seems to be two forestay fittings one could be for the harken roller fulring ?) , and one back stay?

And how many Rum and Cokes / or beers does it take to stop the shakes from the excitement ? (after she's slung in)

Thanks for any help allieve my first launch !

Mike

[klem]

Many people do not bother to start their engine on the hard before being launched but you definitely can if you want to. It sounds like this is a new boat to you so it would not be a bad idea. The easiest way to do this is to put a 5 gallon bucket next to the engine room and remove the raw water intake hose from the seacock and put it into the bucket. Then fill the bucket most of the way with a garden hose. You will need to be ready to regulate the flow out of the garden hose so that the amount of the water in the bucket doesn't get too high or low once the engine is running.

In my opinion, the best way to figure out where all of your filters are is to follow the plumbing of the engine. If you follow the fuel line from the tank (there will be 2, you want the send which is often larger diameter) you should run into at least one if not 2 fuel filters, a lift pump and finally the injection pump which has rigid fuel lines going to your injectors. Unless you have a remote oil filter, the only part of the oil system that you will see is the oil filter. For raw water, the line will come from a sea cock, go to a strainer (very coarse filter) then to the water pump and then to your engine. The raw water usually exits into the exhaust on cruising sailboats. Since we don't know the specific engine or boat, it is hard to be more specific on where these items will be.

The only things that you absolutely have to do before launch relate to making sure that the boat floats. It is advisable to launch with all of your seacocks in the closed position. Also, you should check to make sure that all of the hoses coming off of them are securely clamped and in good condition. If you haven't changed your zincs or painted the bottom, those would be good things to do before launch as well. Prep work is always easier when on the hard so do whatever else you can but it isn't 100% necessary to the boat floating. It sounds like your lifelines are off so installing them sounds like a good idea.

What make and model boat is it?

[GordMay]

Which model Yanmar?

[Solitude]

If you could tell us what model the engine is we would be able to help with filter location.

If its a single cylinder 1gm10

Here are some pictures.

Inboard engine

If you going to start it on land be sure of the supports if the boat starts vibrating. Be sure to reconnect the raw water ose and close the seacock befor launch/ reopen befor starting. Why not start it in the water and catch the antifreeze in a bucket.

[GaiaOrion]

Thanks guys,

I spent some time following the liones last night and think I've her figured out. It is a Yanmar SB12, it has a water/fuel seperator (rancor), and nop apparent oil filter ! I'll keep looking, but I cannot see one, and know what they look like after changing enough of them on the ten or so cars I've owned. Any ideas?

the photos of the gm10 helped, I am going to look at the impeller and see if its worn, soft et. And i do have one suspect hose that is the raw water intake i think, 1" red, heavy rubber- it appears to be leaving little piles of red powder from rubbing somewhere, I'll zip strap the new one so it is out of the way of vibrations et.

It has a knob that you turn to clean off the screen on the water intake ? According to the sparsely written manual. I don't know about that one?

Anyhow, I'll be getting the life lines aboard this weekend, the kids'll be up on the deck with the holleystones ?!!! and it wouldbn't do to have a hand go overboadr., maybe I'll put them on the copckpit and cabin top roof !

Thanks again for all the help.

Mike.

[GordMay]

Yanmar SB12 Manual
Yanmar SB12 Manual - Yachting and Boating World Forums

Uses a metal screen element (not a conventional cannister filtre), which is rarely replaced.

[Inamist]

This is exactly the problem I had, I looked for the oil filter for days...

I have started reading up on these Lube Oil Strainers that the manual says my SB12 has, and it mentioned just to turn the little key that comes of out it left and right a few times to clean it off.

I am pretty eager to do something more significant than that, and looking online a new one runs $50.

Does ANYONE have any experience with these oil strainers? How easy are they to clean, and how often do they need to be replaced?

[Chief Engineer]

Aboard Tugs and on my avatar we have oil filters and screens.

ZF reduction gears, for example have the same thing.

The screen captures the "large chunks" i.e. metal

Service of the screen is simple....remove inspect and clean.

I like to use brake cleaner because it leaves no residue.

Thsi was taught to me by my two (late) mentors. The last pased last year.........I could write a book aboot him.

As far as putting a remote oil filter in...... as XXXX would say "Chief, never ever, ever modify an original installation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"