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Old 05-01-2017, 13:07   #1
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Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

As I look for a replacement damper plate (old one had worn/broken springs) I'm wondering if going to an elastomer type damper plate is the thing to do.

Does any one have experience switching? Any experience/opinions on one versus the other?

Let's assume that price is equal.

Things to consider:

Reliability
Longevity
Sound level
Other
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Old 05-01-2017, 13:19   #2
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

I've got an elastomer damper plate from r&d marine, it replaced an elastomer plate from Hayes. Neither one failed, the Hayes plate had over 1500 hours on it and I had the gear off anyway.
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Old 06-01-2017, 00:55   #3
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

Never had any kind of elastomer but thinking in the same direction, since my metal version gave up.... springs were fine but the metal piece snapped...
Curious to see other opinions
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Old 06-01-2017, 04:23   #4
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

I tried engine mounts with polyurethane elastomers and they have failed fairly quickly so would not be inclined to poly in a damper plate.
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Old 06-01-2017, 05:08   #5
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

If they have a 'fail-safe' or a 'limp-home' mode, where the metal parts provide engagement in the event of an elastomer failure, go for it, they may provide a slightly quieter drive system.


If, however, the drive relies solely on the elastomer to provide engagement, as do certain small Volvo drives, thereby leaving you stranded in the event of an 'elastomer failure' (the elastomer in Volvo's case being bonded synthetic rubber), leave that plate at the door.


The metal plates with springs have provided good reliable service for many, many years....
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Old 06-01-2017, 05:10   #6
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

I replaced the original spring-loaded plate with an elastomer (sp?) plate, when the original damper plate failed, which led to a transmission failure (Velvet Drive Failure). The replacement plate was that specified by the Yanmar distributor in FL - Mastry. Unfortunately these elastomer plates tend to be uni-directional, where the spring-load plate didn't care which direction it rotated. The yard through which I purchased the new plate put it in backwards, and it failed the next year (South on AICW 2011). The elastomer plates required additional shims to fit the bell housing, which the yard did not understand and led to the bad installation.

So I would go with whatever plate your engine manufacturer recommends for your model engine, but insure you (or whomever your hire) knows how to install the plate.

John
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Old 06-01-2017, 05:16   #7
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

Quote:
Originally Posted by jstevens View Post
I replaced the original spring-loaded plate with an elastomer (sp?) plate, when the original damper plate failed, which led to a transmission failure (Velvet Drive Failure). The replacement plate was that specified by the Yanmar distributor in FL - Mastry. Unfortunately these elastomer plates tend to be uni-directional, where the spring-load plate didn't care which direction it rotated. The yard through which I purchased the new plate put it in backwards, and it failed the next year (South on AICW 2011). The elastomer plates required additional shims to fit the bell housing, which the yard did not understand and led to the bad installation.

So I would go with whatever plate your engine manufacturer recommends for your model engine, but insure you (or whomever your hire) knows how to install the plate.

John
Bolded sections very important indeed...
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Old 06-01-2017, 05:16   #8
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Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

I was looking at elastomer from one supplier and that particular one had both bi-rotational and one-rotational to choose from, depending on the application.
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Old 06-01-2017, 18:49   #9
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

The problem is the price is not the same.

The R&D quote for my 150 hp engine was close to $550.

The original spring type was $95. I purchased two of them.

So for less than 1/2 the price of the R&D I have original equipment and a spare.

I finally got the courage to remove the transmission and was surprised how easy it was.

Shim engine, remove universal joint, unbolt mounting blocks, remove transmission cooler (clean out old anodes stuck inside and vinegar soak ), unbolt bell housing cover.

Overhead support block and tackle.

Completed in few hours.

Still waiting for new damperplates to arrive in Philippines. I did removal step before new plates arrived since wanted to be 100% sure what was inside.

Note: The hub of the damper plate is a weaker metal than the transmission shaft. That way the damper is worn away first and not transmission shaft.
A few too many times shifting incorrectly between forward and reverse wears out the damper plate hub. Nothing about the R&D design can stop that.

For a transmission that continues to spin the propeller in neutral, like mine does, this is a particular problem.

Therefore, the piece of mind having a ready spare on board was important. I have one engine.

Note: Also take off your starter and check wires. Most factory supplied starters do not use tinned wires. My wires were beginning to rot.
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Old 06-01-2017, 19:21   #10
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Re: Damper plate - Springs or Polyurethane

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Originally Posted by pbmaise View Post
The problem is the price is not the same.
In your particular case, but not always. I got quoted several different types of each - sometimes the elastomer was more, sometimes less.

But that doesn't matter, this was a comparison of practical reasons of one versus the other and I didn't want the price to be the consideration. That is just an individual choice and anyone can make that decision (whether they want to spend more money) on their own. That was obviously a very easy choice in your case.
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