Half a circumnavigation
under my belt. All with a crappy old engine
that should have died long ago. Armchair folks will balk and perfectionists will think I am a fool. Ask if I care.
The cheapskate list is as follows:
1) Starter Motor
- usually 2 bolts and has the solenoid already attached. High failure item on 40 year old boats with crappy wiring
and loose ground wires. Replace the whole thing for 80 bucks rather than pulling apart the guts or just doing the solenoid.
New Starter Replaces Perkins 185086600 | eBay
pump rebuild/impeller - if you are going for more than 2 years and out of the US, then have it done. If not let it ride and roll the dice. You will only get two years of constant use on a rebuild
, so plan accordingly. New ones are stupid expensive for what they are. I can get a tablet for 120 bucks but I cant get a f-ing new water
pump? In a pinch you may be able to run engine cooling
through an external electric pump
like your boats freshwater pump. As an aside, if you are overheating
like crazy in the boonies pull the thermostat and go full flow cooling
on the perkins
. Glue the sucker down with permatex because you prolly dont have the gasket
. Yes it runs cool. yes it is "bad for the engine" and no it does not really matter. The ol girl will keep chugging long after you have sold the boat. Get the new thermost after you are in port, or don't. 1/2 circumnav with no thermostat. Ask if I care. Cold engine is bad, but far less bad than a warped head
and an engine rebuild
when you have 10K for the year for cruising casue some crap got lodged somewhere and you didn't happen to be watching that guage. You can do this on a perkins
. Others I have no idea.
3) Injectors if you can cross reference and buy them for 20 bucks or less. If 120 per, wait on them and keep your fuel
3) If you have an external facet fuel pump
get a spare. Cheap
as chips. if you have the kind mounted on the engine with a little flip lever to prime/bleed the system leave it be until it fails then wait for your part like everyone else.
starter switch - not a spare item, but a trigger grip remote
starter bypasses all your crappy old wiring
and lets you get the boat moving when a ship is bearing down on your ass and you don't have time to play "find the fuzzy green connection". One clip on the big positive the other on the solenoid and vroom you are started. Wish I had known about that when cruising, would have saved me a few pucker moments.
5) Injector pump
- Forget this, too pricy. Get at least two racors inline before your on-engine fuel pump
. First time you see big seas your crappy fuel tank
will break stuff loose and then you are puking on yourself while trying to clean fuel
filters in heaving seas and wondering why you did not take up golf. Dont f-up the injectors in the first place. Keep it clean hombre. Spare filters yes.
- too expensive, but if going the distance and you have a hurth
get the rebuild kit. INCLUDE THE THRUST WASHER IN THE KIT. Some rebuild kits dont have the thrust washer and your rebuild will not last before it craps out too. IN a pinch you can revere your way into port once you have sailed in close enough even though that is stupid. But if the alternative is death on the rocks, go backwards mate. Reverse never goes on these it is always forward. In a pinch you can swap props righthand to lefthand and use reverse for forward. Just forget about backing up. Slightly different gear
ratio but if you have no other options it is possible. Some will freak to hear that but it is true. Hurth
is the devil and should be back in hell where it belongs. PRM80 cone clutch
... PRM 80 Cone clutch
... PRM 80 cone clutch!
Obviously the consumables need to be in there too.