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Old 08-07-2012, 16:35   #16
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Re: Copper Washer under injectors

I don't know it is the injectors for sure. A couple of years ago I had a similar smell that I ran long enough to get a sooty indicator and it turned out that one of the injectors was a little loose. I took that injector out to look at it (and possibly the others) and then put it back in and tightened it up. That stopped the smell and soot. I'm hoping that since I didn't replace the washer the same thing is happening. This time I'll replace the washers.

I do have a little blowback, always did though. I'll check again at the valve cover.
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Old 08-07-2012, 19:51   #17
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I would guess there is a knowledgable forum member in you vicinity that can be bribed with beer or other tasty beverages.
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Old 08-07-2012, 20:06   #18
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Re: Copper Washer under injectors

I don't know, but I was taught in High school to anneal brass and copper by heating to first red and quenching it in water or oil. Ive done it that way for over 50 years and it's always worked !! somethings really different other places I guess??
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Old 08-07-2012, 20:24   #19
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Re: Copper Washer under injectors

God you guys are smart.

I could do with you guys following me around for a couple of years:-)
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Old 08-07-2012, 20:47   #20
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Re: Copper Washer under injectors

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobconnie View Post
I don't know, but I was taught in High school to anneal brass and copper by heating to first red and quenching it in water or oil. Ive done it that way for over 50 years and it's always worked !! somethings really different other places I guess??

Either method works with copper--heating then letting to slowly air cool, or heating and quenching quickly in water or oil. The latter is preferred when the piece will be further worked or formed.
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Old 08-07-2012, 21:20   #21
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Thermodynamics aside speaking from exp of one or two injector changes, I have to change them in sets of 12 the heat and re-use method is only EUO. Heating and slowly cooling is annealing heating and quenching is tempering. Advising someone to use these methods outside of a emergency situation you are assuming a lot of things will go right. They will not over or under heat the copper and all scale will be polished or planished off to ensure a good seat. At the cost of pennies per washer it is better to replace. It should also be noted that cleaning out the seat when you do injectors is of the utmost importance. Ideally you can use a spare injector to make a wood or plastic piece that is the shape of your nozzle fitted to a rod with enough tol for a tight fit with a rag over the whole works. You can use a clean cotton rag around this to go over your seats when you pull the injectors and ensure they are clean for the new ones. It only takes one little piece of crudd to make the diff.
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Old 08-07-2012, 21:44   #22
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Re: Copper Washer under injectors

Heating and cooling slowly is "normalising" and is commonly used to relieve stress acquired in large weldments during fabrication. The annealing process is different for different metals. Heating and quenching is hardening while tempering is reheating a hardened metal to a lower temperature and re quenching to "draw" it back and make it less brittle. That being said a handful of injector seals should be in every spares kit as well as the seals for all the banjo fittings for the injector pipes.
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:56   #23
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Re: Copper Washer under injectors

Thanks Guys,

Yes, what a wealth of knowledge! I don't plan on re-using the washers, however with this engine I often run into odd size parts that are exclusive to Vetus, and must be ordered special from Holland. I'll be sure to have a propane torch ready in case I can't get replacements.
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Old 10-07-2012, 14:43   #24
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Re: Copper Washer under injectors

Just a follow up. I called Vetus North America. They have the washers they list at $4 each. I'll try NAPA first!
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