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Old 09-01-2010, 19:30   #1
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Control Cables: Can You 'Unsieze' Them?

We're working diligently on our Westerbeke 10Two to get our sailboat moving by the end of January, so we won't have to pay for a tow to the new marina. However, even if we get the motor running, we have another problem. The throttle cable moves with no problem. However, our transmission cable is siezed. Is there any known way to unsieze the cable, and if not, how the heck do you get that thing out of the steering column.

We have wheel steering, and it runs down through the column, under the fuel tank and up to the transmission. We were able to get the end of it undone, but it's still pinned in place somehow inside that steering column. To make things tougher, we can get the compass out of the top of the binnacle, but we can't get the plastic binnacle housing off the steering column. Even if we could, it still seems like it would be impossible to reach down far enough to get to where the cable is clipped.

Anyone have any advice or procedures for this?
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Old 09-01-2010, 19:42   #2
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What I do is take a baggie put a hole just big enough for the cable in the corner of the bag tie it off with a rubber band ,so it cannot leak, then fill it with light oil and hang the bag up over night, this works most of the time-Good Luck!
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Old 09-01-2010, 19:45   #3
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If you want reliability so the chance of them seizing back up again is minimal then replace them. Keep the ends greased and away from water.
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Old 09-01-2010, 19:52   #4
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If you need to replace it then it really looks like you need to get that plastic binnacle housing off... Is it impossible because it's deliberately permanently fixed or because it's just jammed on there? Alternatively, what happens at the base of the steering column? I can't see in your pics because the dog is standing in the way... Any access under there either above or below deck? I guess you've thought of all this though...
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Old 09-01-2010, 20:01   #5
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Trying to lube the cable is a temprary solution...at best.

After you take the compass off the binnacle should be held on by SS machine screws

The top of the pedestal will. sometimes have another plate.

Then you have to remove the wheel assembly to get to the cable controls.

Get some PB Blaster and liberally put it on the SS screws.

SS and Aluminum don't mix well after some age so be prepared for seized screws.

Before you shear anything off....get back to us.
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Old 09-01-2010, 22:06   #6
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I got to be an expert on the Edson Binacle when I was having linkage problems. There is a nut around 2/3 of the way up the binacle. this attaches the clip to the binacle and if you take this off you can loosen the cables. AS fara as getting the screw off the binacle top I think that soaking and resoaking with a high quality penetrating oil (not WD 40) take a day or two to soak it. You can't use heat b/c of the plastic parts so be patient and keep on applying oil. Hopefully after a few days it will come off. You might try an impact wrench on the screws as a last resort.

If your compass is accurate it is a good idea to put three strips of tape on the compass down to the biancle and then cut them with a razor kinfe this will keep the compass aligned. While you have it torn apart it is a good idea to inspect/rebuild the inside of the binacle. An often over looked area is he chain.

When you go to reattach the clip 2/3 of the way up the binacle it is much easier if you have a long screwdriver or other piece of metal so that you can push the screw threw the hole. another idea would be to take some dental floss and attach it to the threads of the clips after you take the nut off. From there it will make it much easier to align the clip in the binacle by just pulling on the floss.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:38   #7
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There are indeed four very large screws holding the plastic section on, and thus far they have improved impossible to turn. They snapped the flat head off my electric screwdriver, and after purchasing the largest screwdriver at Home Depot, we've still had no luck. The plastic section is already cracked, so we may try an impact wrench next weekend. I was going to try the baggy trick since we only need to make one short trip to the new marina, but I got distracted tearing the starter apart again, and it was too dark and too cold by the time I got around to that Sunday night.

I'm headed to Paris for the week, but we'll attack it all again next weekend when I get back.

Thanks for the tips.
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Old 11-01-2010, 13:30   #8
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OK...here is a "Tugboat Tip"

Get a brass rod or a stout piece of round stock

Place it on the head of the screw

Take a healthy Ball pein hammer and give the rod a SHARP WHACK with the round stock transferring the blow.

I had to do this a zillion times to free up frozen stuff on tugs

The other thing you can do is get 3/8" drive sockets that have scredriver heads on them...this will allow you to have leverage AND downward force.

GENTLY go in both directions

Good Luck
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Old 11-01-2010, 13:59   #9
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Desperate times...

One of the "things" that I have done to "assist" a recalcitrant screw has been to place a hot screwdriver on the screw. I seem to recall heating the screwdriver with a small propane torch when I was totally desperate. Careful, the screwdriver can get really hot (don't ask).

But keep in mind this comes from someone who throws out screws on a regular basis as the head is burred over, who regularly buys new electric screwdrivers and who has been known to drill off screw heads and take the screw out with 15" multigrips...
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Old 11-01-2010, 15:37   #10
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Get a hand impact driver. They don't cost much and will take out frozen screws with ease. I read somewhere its a no no to lubricate teleflex cables.
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Old 11-01-2010, 19:16   #11
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Replace.

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Old 20-01-2010, 09:19   #12
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Edson actually has instructions for removing/replacing the cables on their site. Who'd a thunk?

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/maintenance/eb92316.php

1. BUY YOUR REPLACEMENT CABLE:
Determine type and length of engine control cable using measurements or markings from the original cable. Knowing
the outside diameter of the original cable jacket will help determine the cable type and thread size. The length
tip to tip of the cable core will give you the proper length.
2. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL
This will give you more room to work.
3. REMOVE COMPASS
Before removing the compass bolts, run a piece of electrical tape vertically from the compass across the engine
control housing, top plate, and onto the pedestal. Slit the tape at each joint. This will help you realign the
compass with the other parts when you reassemble this upper part of the pedestal. Remove the four round head
1/4-20 x 3-1/2 machine screws that serve as compass bolts.
4. REMOVE THE BRASS CLEVIS PINS FROM THE CONTROL LEVERS IN THE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
The clevises are screwed to the end of the engine control cables. Note which holes in the control levers the
clevis pins came from. This helps when reassembling this unit.
5. REMOVE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
6. REMOVE THE CABLE HOLDER NUT OR ROUND HEAD MACHINE SCREW
located on the aft side of the pedestal tube approximately 7" below the wheel shaft. This will release the Cable
Holder (A-969 or A-705) that holds the two engine control cables. These cables remain attached to the cable holder
inside the pedestal tube.
7. BRING BOTH CONTROL CABLES TO THE SAME SIDE OF WHEEL SHAFT.
From the top of the pedestal, push down both of the engine control cables just far enough so you can bring the
throttle control cable (right hand side) under the wheel shaft and over to the left aft side of the pedestal along
with the clutch cable.
8. PULL BOTH CONTROL CABLES UP.
With both control cables now on the same side of the steering wheel shaft, pull the cables up until you can reach
the cable holder.
1. Due to the limited amount of space in the pedestal tube the cable holder sometimes gets jammed up with the
steering chain and cables. One solution to this problem is to turn the steering wheel shaft all the way to
port, thus putting most of the steering chain over on the left side with the two engine control cables and
cable holder. Then, while pulling up on the engine control cables, turn the steering wheel shaft back to
starboard. The upward movement of the chain can help bring the cable holder and control cables up to a level
where they can be reached.
2. Working space can be gained in the upper section of the pedestal by moving the chain forward of the chain
sprocket. To do this, first tighten the brake, then ease the tension of the chain and steering cables by
backing off the nuts on the takeup eyes located on your radial drive wheel or quadrant which is attached to
the rudderpost. With slack in the steering cables, lift the steering chain and move it forward of the hub
sprocket located on the steering wheel shaft.
9. REMOVE THE BROKEN ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
Now that you can reach the cable holder, remove the broken engine control cable. When removing the bad engine
control cable, make sure you attach a "messenger" line, or the new replacement cable, to the end of the original
cable. You will use the "messenger" line to run the new replacement cable through the same route as the original
engine control cable.
10. RUN THE NEW ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
Using the "messenger" line, pull the new engine control cable into place.
11. REASSEMBLE BY REVERSING THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.
1. Attach the new control cable to the cable holder.
2. Push both control cables down into the pedestal far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable under
the steering wheel shaft and over to the right hand side.
3. Pull up and push aft on the engine control cables.
4. Line up the cable holder with its screw hole on the aft side of the pedestal. A long rod or screw drive will
help. The A-969 Cable Holder has a threaded (1/4-20) stud that sticks out through the hole. Use "Loctite" on
thread. The A-705 Cable Holder is held in place with a round head (1/4-20 thread) screw that comes from the
outside of the pedestal tube and screws into the cable holder. Use "Loctite" on threads.
5. Attach control cables to fittings on engine end.
6. Put engine control housing in place.
7. Attach clevises to engine control levers.
8. Before mounting compass use the four 3-1/2" (Fig 817 Sz. 3.5) compass mounting bolts to hold the engine
control housing in place. Test and adjust the engine controls at this time.
9. Remove the four compass mounting bolts. Mount the compass using, the original tape alignment marks, and
screw compass mounting bolts back in place using an anti-seize compound on the threads.
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Old 20-01-2010, 10:05   #13
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go to a motorcycle shop and buy a cable lube system. The one I use has a very small metal tube coming out of a pressurized oil can. The tube is slipped into the cable sheathing and with a push of a button oil is forced into the cable sheath. Works great. Tons better than WD40.
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Old 20-01-2010, 10:13   #14
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can you just break off the screw holding the clip? replace the cable and deal with a new clip later... might be best to have the screw go through from the outside with a nut rather than tapped into the pedestal anyway.... if I've got the arrangement figured out right. The last thing you want is to go into your new slip and have it stuck in gear... ramming your new neighbor!!
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