Can anyone advise if one must replace the pressed in copper injector sleeves once the injectors are removed prior to re-assembly to insure a good seal?
What worked for me was to insert the injector with a liberal amount of never-seize, including on the bottom lip, put a socket over the fuel connection to protect the threads, and give it a light whack with a hammer. The original problem I was trying to correct was a compression leak at the injector seat. YMMV.
The copper sleeve can be reburnished in place if still properly sealed in the head. Had a slight leak between the sleeve and injector, good mechanic (with the correct tool) did the job. I believe Volvo makes a special tool, but my mechanic used some generic burnisher. That was 3 years ago and all is well still.
i am in the middle of this right now. Had a pretty major leak between the injector, the head, and the head of the motor. Had to remove the head and when the sleeve is pressed in it is then machined from the bottom.
First quote was 3500 plus parts, started to look for a new motor, but second mechanic said 800 plus parts so even if it goes bad it wont be too bad.
To..Capt Ben.
I do not claim to be a general diesel expert as my entire experience has been with a 2003 VolvoPenta. Which was salvaged from a 36.4 kira, with 4,600 hours on it. After replacement of starter, alternator, engine mounts, and exhaust riser which I had ceramic coated inside the water passages and the gas passage. Al lit would do is blow smoke
I could not get it started without having the Bosch injectors rebuilt at Fred Holmes at Verdun Place in Richmond BC for $456 CDN. They had a home made slide hammer created from a long bolt that had been drilled and tapped at the bottom end to accept a screw which held captive a spare union nut. by attaching this to the top thread instead of the fuel line: This made removal of the injectors very simple. and did not disturb the copper coolant sockets at all. After refitting the 'new' injectors it started on the second revolution and ran perfectly.
Taking note that your post is about compression testing...It also seems to be originating from loss of driving power. While others have asked about clean bottom and propeller. In your second post I read with surprise how you described stopping the boat quickly by putting the the engine in reverse. Considering the known design flaw with the 20 tooth splined hard connection between the engine and transmission. I wondered about the wisdom of this? and pondered the question as to if the cone clutch is slipping?
I have been told that this is basically a very well designed marine engine; Designed as such by Volvo... as opposed to an industrial engine conversion. That the MS2B is also a good transmission. However if you would consider some innovative Canadian engineering design as being an improvement on Swedish engineering. I suggest you Contact Barbara and Ted Mark at Next Wave marine systems inc 1 250 752 1790. They have built the 'sure drive' for my engine. It is a simple bolt in addition that required no machining or alteration to either the engine or the transmission and through four polymer blocks normally used in commercial vessels provides a shock absorbing cushioned drive between the engine and transmission. I hope that you find a solution to your problem.
UPDATE and advice sought:
• New copper injector sleeves have been installed.
• Compression test completed (#1 365, #2 365, #3 355, 8 sec crank @ 60F, warmed engine.)
• Stainless SteelExhaustElbow installed.
So, the engine is running well but I did have an odd experience the other day which I may have also had a few years ago. After starting the engine while at sea to prepare for a harbor entrance, I placed the engine in gear and there was no effective power & no rpm increase with a full throttle. I then put the engine in neutral, gave her throttle and the rpms increased as she should. Then I reduced rpm, placed her in gear and gave her a bunch of throttle. Now she responded and the rpm increased and she was back to full speed operation. It was as if there wasn't enough air or fuel though there was no sputtering, just no more that 1k rpm or so. I don't think this is the 'cone clutch slipping'. If it was the rpm's would have increased without any effective power. Have I got that right? But that's not what occurred. When the lack of power occurred there was no increase in rpm. BTW, I cleaned out the air filter a year ago and supplied additional makeup air to the air intake area of the engine with a new vent and hose.
So, the specification of the engine states a compression ratio of 17.5:1 As I computed it, with the barometric pressure of the day, the spec compression should have been around 260psi. How does this compression test result seem? All normal?
Any ideas what might have caused this momentary lack of power that could be cleared by switching to neutral, revving up, then reduce to idle, and back to in gear (full power restored)? Oh, and a month ago, I changed all fuel filters and fuel/water separator filter.
i am in the middle of this right now. Had a pretty major leak between the injector, the head, and the head of the motor. Had to remove the head and when the sleeve is pressed in it is then machined from the bottom.
First quote was 3500 plus parts, started to look for a new motor, but second mechanic said 800 plus parts so even if it goes bad it wont be too bad.
thanks,
jeff
Hi Jeff, thanks for your response. I hope your project is going well. BTW, I replaced my sleeves without removing the head or machining the underside. How has your project gone? I hope that 'major' leak is fixed. Even though I replaced the sleeves and installed new O rings, I'm still getting a bit of coolant leakage around the top of the injector. I'm hoping that this leakage may disappear as the o ring seats????
Cheers, Ben
Any ideas what might have caused this momentary lack of power that could be cleared by switching to neutral, revving up, then reduce to idle, and back to in gear (full power restored)? Oh, and a month ago, I changed all fuel filters and fuel/water separator filter.
I do not think this a fouled prop issue.
My guess would be something goofy with your throttle lever and not an engine problem
Is the engine running smoothly when you have the non-reving problem? Sounds like a fuel issue.
The injector sleeve by itself should seal the coolant in the head. Overtime the leak will probably get worse and maybe end up freezing the injector in place. Maybe you could try a little more setting of the sleeve
Is the engine running smoothly when you have the non-reving problem? Sounds like a fuel issue.
Thanks Paul,
The injector sleeve by itself should seal the coolant in the head. Overtime the leak will probably get worse and maybe end up freezing the injector in place. Maybe you could try a little more setting of the sleeve
Yes, the engine seemed to be running fine smoothly regardless of problem or not. About 10 years ago I replaced the manual liftpump. I was wondering if it may be failing intermittently. I recently tightened all of the body screws to the pump.
RE the leaking sleeve, as I picture this, the flaring tool locks the tip of the injector sleeve into the lower part of the head, that's it, the only other seal is the O ring about 1/2" below the top of the head. I was tempted to source out a slightly larger o ring to help insure a tighter seal.
Is the engine running smoothly when you have the non-reving problem? Sounds like a fuel issue.
The injector sleeve by itself should seal the coolant in the head. Overtime the leak will probably get worse and maybe end up freezing the injector in place. Maybe you could try a little more setting of the sleeve
My guess would be something goofy with your throttle lever and not an engine problem
This is a good suggestion. I've always been confused about how that cable works. It's got the original single control handle by Volvo. I don't think it could slip and then re-engage, but I'll have to look closer. Maybe it's an engagement issue at the control vs at the actual engine.
I'm no expert, but I have always looked primarily at consistency between cylinders. Yours looks pretty close. Not sure why they read so much higher than the expected. Maybe measurement error. Not sure if a cylinder with a bunch of carbon in it would do that.
The compression figures are not that far adrift and are satisfactory.
The issue of no revs when forward gear engaged and throttle opened is all related to the linkage from the manual control to the fuel rack and is an intermittent fault.
When out of gear when you move the throttle you can see the movement of the cable linkage and quadrant linkages down to the fuel rack. This movement of the throttle cable is exactly the same for throttle movement when the gear is engaged for forward (or reverse) drive. However, under certain circumstances with older worn linkages the throttle may not properly engage resulting in no movement of the throttle rack and therefore no fuel increase and hence no increase in engine speed.
It is nothing to do with clutch slip or prop issues.
It is not a big issue at this point in time if your remedial action at the time resolved the problem so I would wait to see if it develops to something more significant over time.
The compression figures are not that far adrift and are satisfactory.
The issue of no revs when forward gear engaged and throttle opened is all related to the linkage from the manual control to the fuel rack and is an intermittent fault.
When out of gear when you move the throttle you can see the movement of the cable linkage and quadrant linkages down to the fuel rack. This movement of the throttle cable is exactly the same for throttle movement when the gear is engaged for forward (or reverse) drive. However, under certain circumstances with older worn linkages the throttle may not properly engage resulting in no movement of the throttle rack and therefore no fuel increase and hence no increase in engine speed.
It is nothing to do with clutch slip or prop issues.
It is not a big issue at this point in time if your remedial action at the time resolved the problem so I would wait to see if it develops to something more significant over time.
Thank you for the reply. Can you advise what might be the proper repair? By fuel rack, are you referring to the what in the shop manual looks to be the Transmission Cover (see attached images from manual)? What components might be slipping in the rack, or which linkages might be worn etc.? What is the quadrant linkage? Is that within the fuel rack assembly?
I'm not a big fan of intermittent engine issues as they some how seem to show up at the worst time.
This Saturday, I'll be taking down our mast for the winter and I've got some of Lake Michigan and then the Chicago river (lots of tight traffic and construction) to navigate for about 18nm.