Thanks again everyone for your input! I do appreciate them very much. I left out some background information that may have made my dilema more understandable.
Originally Posted by jannpage
I want to go back to your first post. If it runs fine, why change? Yes, Gasoline is not nice fuel from a safety
standpoint but - a gas engine stands up to the occational light use most of us sailors use our engines for. If all you are doing is using it to get you in and out of the Marina and now and then to get you home when the wind
dies - diesels really don't like that light use. But even if you use it more, you really are going to find the conversion will result in a lot of headackes. Even putting a beta in (which is by far the easiest) still demands a lot of fitting that is expensive. I really would like you get some bids for the job. Of the bids that are interesting, go back a second time if need be and ask to separate labor out. Believe me, it is a big enough labor job to give you a little to think about.
I would keep the trusty old Atomic 4.
Re black smoke, the way you describe it is probably not a problem. It is not a gs engine. MIght get a diesel mechanic
to run it. What is it's history
Re conversion to fresh water , figure $300-400 for new parts. $150 - 200 each for a heat exchanger
and a DC pump. Generally the damage is salt build up in the cooling walls. I have had pretty good luck using vinegar to remove it.
I have plans beyond just sailing the SF Bay
or coastal cruising. If that were the case I would not repower
. I would either continue to use my A4 or go with an outboard
or even sail engineless. For blue water cruising an diesel engine has several uses - (1) charging battery
, (2) get through calm, (3) get off a lee shore, (4) a source of hot water.
If there.s no load on the engine and it blows black smoke, run, don't walk, away and find another engine on craig's list !
Only when it is under hard acceleration. Under (artificial) load actually it does not smoke.
You can get a fitting for the tank that converts it. It is actually a fitting that is tapped into the fuel tank sender plate.
I would not reduce the exhaust hose size. This can lead to excessive back pressure, poor performance and smoking....in some cases.
Thanks Chief, that's good to know.
It seems from this discussion I need to take care of the following:
1. Lower profile mounts ($200?)
2. New panel or panel components (including loom connector) (How much should I budget
for a used one?)
3. Exhaust hose and maybe new waterlift muffler
4. Shaft coupling ($50)
5. New (or used) prop ($100-$300)
6. Engine mount modification (DIY)
7. Add return hose
8. Tap into fuel tank sender
In addition, I may need to:
1. Injector service
2. FWC conversion ($300-400)
Wow, definitely not cheap
even if I do all of the work myself. I hope to control the total out pocket cost to less than $1000. Looks challenging.