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Old 17-10-2016, 06:44   #31
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

I wouldn't spray WD40 on a motor, maybe one of the worst and misuse products ever. You don't need to spray or fog anything for a 6 months layup, just run-out or drain the old junk gas out of the carbs and flush motor with flesh water.

Every boater should have a better selection of lubricates on their boat. Sprays like a dry lubricate (for sailboat hardware and sailtracks), CR-56 (good all propose around engine), Marvel Mystery Oil (the best for inside the engine, I unfroze a motor with this stuff), silicone spray and PB Buster (for freeing rusty parts). Also add to the war chest a waterproof, synthetic extreme-duty grease like Superlube (an excellent product).

If I felt the need to do something with what you have, I would use the 2-cycle oil.
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Old 17-10-2016, 07:08   #32
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

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Originally Posted by Franziska View Post


TCW3 is a standard two stroke motor oils must meet, it is a good oil. I'd bet most engines manufacturers require it.

https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/tc-w3

But I think you have four strokes and your concern is for a corrosion inhibiting oil.
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Old 17-10-2016, 08:50   #33
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

I have to disagree with those who said no to use of WD-40.. It is a wonderful protectant.. I have no trouble spraying down anything with it and then leaving it over winter..

Read the can.. flk k
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Old 17-10-2016, 09:28   #34
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

I love WD40. Seen many demos of other majik s??t the is supposed to be far better, rarely is any better. It does leave a protective coating on all metals.
BUT! the solvents in any penetrating oil can permeate some resilient material. Penetrating oils should not be used around rubber, plastic, paper or similar materials. Seals, gaskets, valves floats and other hidden bits inside your engine. A little motor oil compatible with your engine is the very best to use if you can get it in through the sparkplug hole.

As an afterthought, I have found Gun Oil (any brand) is a light non-congealing oil that comes in a convenient package, and I have found it makes tools move well AND protects from rusting. Not surprising it works well, considering the cost per ounce, but I use it by the drop.
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Old 17-10-2016, 09:29   #35
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

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Originally Posted by liveaboard60 View Post
I have to disagree with those who said no to use of WD-40.. It is a wonderful protectant.. I have no trouble spraying down anything with it and then leaving it over winter..

Read the can.. flk k
I believe you are lucky and have not fogged an engine as was the OPs question.
And yes it does have it's uses that is not one of them. I even hate the thought of using it as starter fluid. JMHO
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Old 17-10-2016, 11:53   #36
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

For the non WD40 haters, here is a link to a PDF of the 2000 plus things it is good for:

https://wd40.com/files/wd40-2000.pdf


Personally I have used it for nearly 50 years in protecting things put into long term storage from rust and degradation.. Even to the point of totally spraying a motor cycle down with it until it was dripping off, which was then placed into long term storage for over a year..

I know of several people in the marine canvas business who use it regularly to clean marine vinyl with it..


One word of caution though.. Do not use it around anything which might come into contact with unfinished wood which may be at some point finished.. The silicone will cause what is known as "fish eyes" in the finish.. So for my table saw, I only use vegetable oil..

flk


P.S. I do not in any way make a buck if you use it or not.. Personally though, I have cans of the stuff at home, in my vehicles and of course on my boat.. flk k
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Old 19-10-2016, 02:17   #37
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

Im just guessing but suspect gear oil would last longest as its thick stuff but 2 stroke nxt best. Wouldnt sweat it too much tho as if the outboard motors are 2 strokes they tend to be able to sit for a fair while without seizing. I once left a two stroke motorcycle sitting in the shed for about 5 years & it started 2nd kick. 4 strokes are a different story however
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Old 19-10-2016, 14:32   #38
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

I did a test of what spray would inhibit rust best on bare steel. I left the steel out in the elements for about a year. The best protector was zinc spray followed by WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor. CRC 6-56 did an Ok job followed by CRC 3-36. Bare metal had less rust than Corrosion-X, WD40, and ACF-50 protected steel. Not really sure why these rusted so badly. Corrosion-X seemed to cause rust.

Of course you can't spray zinc into an engine, so that solution is out the door, but the other 3 would probably do a good job of both lubricating internal parts (cylinders/rings) and preventing corrosion. I wish I had included a fogger and Marvel in the test but did not. So who knows how well they would have faired. I also know that the inside of an engine is much better protected than bare steel subjected to the elements. But I thought it was an interesting perspective to the OP's original post.
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Old 20-10-2016, 10:11   #39
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

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Originally Posted by hsi88 View Post
I did a test of what spray would inhibit rust best on bare steel. I left the steel out in the elements for about a year. The best protector was zinc spray followed by WD40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor. CRC 6-56 did an Ok job followed by CRC 3-36. Bare metal had less rust than Corrosion-X, WD40, and ACF-50 protected steel. Not really sure why these rusted so badly. Corrosion-X seemed to cause rust.

Of course you can't spray zinc into an engine, so that solution is out the door, but the other 3 would probably do a good job of both lubricating internal parts (cylinders/rings) and preventing corrosion. I wish I had included a fogger and Marvel in the test but did not. So who knows how well they would have faired. I also know that the inside of an engine is much better protected than bare steel subjected to the elements. But I thought it was an interesting perspective to the OP's original post.
I'm not sure it is all about antirust protection, for which WD40 is good in its place. A rustless surface, eg. a cylinder wall with no lube may be a disaster?
JMHO
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Old 21-10-2016, 02:26   #40
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Re: Better use a light coat of WD40 than no fogging oil?

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I'm not sure it is all about antirust protection, for which WD40 is good in its place. A rustless surface, eg. a cylinder wall with no lube may be a disaster?
Although I have not had to pull apart a diesel yet, I have rebuilt both old outboard and motorcycle engines and its ALL about rust. Probably a quarter of the engines I have worked on would not even turn over because the rings were frozen to the cylinder walls. And of those, about half could not be freed even with penetrates like PB Blaster. I literally had to cut or drill the pistons to free them up and they all require a re-bore. Again, have not worked with a diesel, but don't think you would go wrong fogging the insides of an engine before storing. And all of the corrosion preventative sprays I tried were also lubricants to some degree, including WD40. I would also change the oil before I put an engine away for a time because of the moisture that accumulates inside an engine. And before restarting any engine that has not started for many years I would spray a penetrating oil into the cylinders to help free things up. I have a motorcycle restoration website and have a webpage dedicated to starting old engines. I would think a lot of the same issues apply to old or sitting marine diesel engines. How to start an old motorcycle
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