Originally Posted by colemj
The Tohatsu 18 has been on the market since the early/mid 90's. It has always been a real alternative to the Yamaha Enduro. It is not a new model, unless they have redesigned it in the past year.
Like I said, the Enduro rides a reputation it really does not deserve.
Mark, I disagree, just a bit. Let me qualify my position
The model I looked at is the "Ever Run" (The Tohatsu version of an "Enduro" I have never seen this model before, but as you know I have been "hidden" for a while
I believe this is indeed an upgraded model designed for the 3rd world.
My first outboard
was a Yamaha P450 in 1978. The shop was a Tohatsu dealer. The motors were comparable side by side, and in use .The owner had one Tohatsu and one Yamaha 25 running in a twin set up on the same boat same work same maintenance
. Yamaha was better. But that was then...
I would not have placed the earlier Tohatsu's in the same league as the Yamaha, and I am referring to the Salt Water
Series Yamaha ie the 63V model.
Yamaha have their own metallurgists, and in fact I believe all the single
cylinder motors only exist to recycle the scrapped castings of larger motors, they are not a profit center. Yamaha do not sell their blocks that fail laser measurement on to the scrap market.
The Salt-Water series Yamaha, is one of the finest evolutions of a 2 stroke
2 cyl motor
ever. They have refined it since 1984 and each evolution was better than the last. The Achilles heel of the SW model is only that the magneto coils have to be made out of Iron rich Steel
, and they rust. They can't be made out of anything else. Most of the problems have been fuel
related. TCW3 outboard oil
contains Ammonia in order to transport small amounts of water
in a colloidal solution and evacuate it by burning. This transported water
erodes the Idle Jet, a #48 and it gets slightly bigger over time, and should be habitually replaced every 2 years if in daily use.
The Enduro model has some changes, some good some bad, but it was built for a specific market, where robustness was deemed more important than efficiency.
Here is a list of my likes and dislikes of the Enduro (6B43) vs. the Salt Water
system on the Enduro is not as good, vs. the SW which has a drier exhaust
as it is externally cooled all the way down to the lower unit.
at the bottom of the power head
has a design fault, where salt
and calcium can build-up forcing the gasket
upwards, breaking the seal on the front side, this causes hot salt
water to spray onto the driveshaft and seal housing (Part # 6B4-15396) causing corrosion
and binding. A motor
with a compromised gasket and left for storage
will "seize" up as the seal housing expands (inward) and grips the driveshaft. I have fixed three of these in one year. The solution, if you own an Enduro is ALWAYS turn the motor "Tiller Handle Down" when tilted on your transom overnight, this allows drainage of that channel.
The timing is fiddle proof on the Enduro, good if you have naughty fingers, but the motor cannot be tuned to the perfect timing of 5deg ATDC idle and 25 BTDC at WOT, as it can on the 63V. This results in a rough idle and more noise
on the Enduro.
The shift lever is harder to reach on the Enduro.
on the Enduro is less efficient, with thicker blades, but it is bullet proof.
IE the top speed of my dink with the 63V prop is 4 Kts higher than with the Enduro prop, same pitch
and all other parameters equal.
Shallow water drive, tilt, and lock system on the Enduro is better than the 63V
Tiller arm is better on the Enduro.
The start mechanism is better on the Enduro.
The Resonator on the carb is better on the Enduro.
In summary, If I compare the new Tohatsu Ever Run 18 to the Enduro Yamaha, they are in the same league (bearing in mind that there are no older ones to compare corrosion
However, the Tohatsu pales against the 63V, but those are only sold in Indonesia
now as new. (with a few small mods)
One last thing on the Tohatsu, you get a spares kit in the box containing 1x Cyl Head
Gasket, one power head base gasket, spark plugs, grease, 2 anodes, a trim tab anode, oil plug
gaskets, a water pump impeller and a replacement start cord.
Sorry for the thread hijack Monte, but perhaps you can make an informed decision now. I suggest buy in Panama
, and choose between the 18 T and the 9.9Y at more or less the same price
. (And I will be happy to convert the 9.9 to 15 for you over a beer
if you choose the Yammie)