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Old 08-07-2010, 22:38   #61
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THANKS Ex-Calif! I have a MD2020, will find out about the sub model. I really appreciate all the help. Instinct tells me you are right about removing the alt and exploring further(sigh). I know this all seems like a very simple tasks to many, so I really appreciate the time you all have put into explanations and input, OG thanks you too.
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Erika (one day I will be known as the "diesel whisperer")
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Old 08-07-2010, 22:50   #62
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One job turning into three jobs is called boat ownership.

Actually when you reinstall the alternator and the tachometer doesn't work you will have job 4. Repairing the tach sender wire on the back of the alternator you broke while doing jobs 1,2 & 3 - ask me how I know...
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:43   #63
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"- Remove the alternator completely - tag the wires and "
Dan, when someone is new to arc welding I always try to remind them: First, disconnect the battery positive! It usually goes straight to the alternator output, and when that wire is let go, or a wrench bumps it...ZZZT! happens in a very nasty way.
I'm lucky, I've only welded the bezel on my watch that way. Working at the battery terminal itself. (The watch comes off now, the rings have been off for years.)
ZZZT! KaPOW! "Gee, Batman, didn't know you did electrical work." <G>

Ocean Girl-
www.imperialinc.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf
One of many "bolt torque charts" you can find online. There may be one with your wrench as well. When you don't have a torque spec provided (i.e. by an engine maker for head bolts) then you use the spec'd amount of torque for the bolt size and strength. If the bolt has radial lines on the head (i.e. /|\) it might have three, or four, or six lines on it, each indicates a progressively stronger grade of bolt. Common nuts and bolts are just "common" stuff with no extra lines, and are torqued per their diameter. The high-strength ones are marked, so you know to apply more torque to them. On an alternator, you'll probably just find common bolts, although someone might replace them with better parts if they've snapped one off before.<G>
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Old 09-07-2010, 12:25   #64
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Excellent point HS.

Erika - What Hellosailor is saying is that there are direct connections from the battery to the alternator. If one of those touch ground you will have an arc welder.

Remove all connections to the positive battery terminals first whenever working electrical stuff..
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Old 09-07-2010, 13:53   #65
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Roger that, Thanks
Erika
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Old 09-07-2010, 14:14   #66
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I always remove the ground wire from the battery first. If your wench that you are using to loosen the battery clamp touches something grounded there is no arc.

Then, when you are done, replace the ground wire to the negative terminal of the battery last.

Lots of stuff to learn!
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:13   #67
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Update: MD 2020-D
Stud has not backed out in any way that I can tell (yahoo), everything looks good and intact. Ordered the hose from Marine Parts express (very great company site and customer service!). Also ordered the missing locking nut (2) and an air intake filter. It feels like Christmas!
Torque wrench, so far the only one I can find locally is by Husky...never bought a husky tool and it is about 75 bucks (clicking kind). Any input? Can't buy the belt til Thursday, there is an industrial place that I am to take my belt to and ask for the "green stripe", we will see how that goes. Thanks again for all the help.
Cheers,
Erika
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:31   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboy Sailer View Post
If your wench that you are using to loosen the battery clamp touches something grounded there is no arc.
Must resist smartass response, must resist smartass response, must resist....
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:38   #69
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The wench's name must be Joan
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:05   #70
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Elmer Fudd has trouble with "R" too! I actually don't like my wench touching my battery clamp either!
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