"- Remove the alternator completely - tag the wires and "
Dan, when someone is new to arc
welding I always try to remind them: First, disconnect the battery
positive! It usually goes straight to the alternator output, and when that wire is let go, or a wrench bumps it...ZZZT! happens in a very nasty way.
I'm lucky, I've only welded the bezel on my watch that way. Working at the battery
terminal itself. (The watch comes off now, the rings have been off for years.)
ZZZT! KaPOW! "Gee, Batman, didn't know you did electrical
One of many "bolt torque charts" you can find online. There may be one with your wrench as well. When you don't have a torque spec provided (i.e. by an engine
maker for head
bolts) then you use the spec'd amount of torque for the bolt size and strength. If the bolt has radial lines on the head
(i.e. /|\) it might have three, or four, or six lines on it, each indicates a progressively stronger grade of bolt. Common nuts and bolts are just "common" stuff with no extra lines, and are torqued per their diameter. The high-strength ones are marked, so you know to apply more torque to them. On an alternator, you'll probably just find common bolts, although someone might replace them with better parts
if they've snapped one off before.<G>