Originally Posted by Ocean Girl
I just got home from work and looked into loctite info, here is what I think would be good to use Loctite Blue
. I will use a turnbuckle thingy for alt belt adjustments, but first will buy a new belt (green stripe ribbed), some loctite blue, and a torque wrench. So my final question is: How much torque for the alt mounting arm bolts?
They say boats are like women, but I can say with absolute certainty that I am no where near as complicated as my Ocean Girl!
Hi OG - I'm late to this thread but hope can add some value.
Your engine looks like the Volvo MD2010. That's the exact model I have. You need to find the sub-model of your engine to make sure you have the right parts going back together. I suspect you have the MD2010-B but there is a data plate On the right hand side of the engine near the top. Get the right model number.
You have 3 jobs - 1. Fix the stud that secures the inboard end of the alternator tension arm. 2. Replace the freshwater pump to heat exchanger
hose and make sure it doesn't chafe again. 3. Tighten the alternator belt.
First off a stud is a rod with threads on both ends. A stud is mounted in a steel
block more or less permanently and the other end receives a nut. Your nut is missing. It is possible the stud has also backed out of the engine block. You need to check that.
1. Stud Repair - Why did the stud (or nut) chafe the hose? The chafe could be from the nut as it backed off or from the stud backing out. If the stud backed out it would allow the nut to be loose. To fix it.
- Remove the alternator completely - tag the wires and be careful not to damage them.
- Remove the chafed water hose completely
- Find two nuts that fit the stud - install the first by hand until it bottoms. Install a second "jammer" until it comes up against the first. Using two wrenches tighten the second one and loosen the first one until they "jam" together. then with one wrench try to "loosen" the first nut with moderate pressure. If the stud moves, remove it completely. Check the threads and maybe wire brush them lightly to clean. Use "RED" locktite on the threads and reinstall it until it bottoms and then torque it. Red locktite is the "permanent" type and is appropriate for studs into blocks.
For the next repair you will need a new hose - I do not recommend trying to find one at an auto store that is close - the clearances are tight in this installation
and you don't want this hose chaffing because it doesn't fit right.
I use this site for parts - Volvo Penta, Mercruiser and more - Marine Parts Express - engines, outdrives, propellers
From the home page click on "Volvo Penta
Parts Schematics" - Click Diesel
- Scroll down the big list of schematics and pick MD20A0B-MD2020B-MD2030B-MD2040B. (It's a quirk that the 2010B schematic is mislabeled.
Sroll to "Cooling System" Scroll to the first "Water Pump" entry and open the pdf. This is the schematic for the 2010B - It appears the part number for this hose is 861928. You can copy this number from the parts list and paste it directly into the search box at the top of the page. The part is $24.49. I have had excellent experience with their shipping
. I have not had to return parts so can't comment.
IF YOU DON"T HAVE THE MD2010B THIS PART NUMBER IS WRONG. THERE ARE SEVERAL CONFIGURATIONS IN THE MD2010.
2. Water Hose - When you remove the band clamps check thier condition. If dodgy get new ones. Make a judgement call on the other hoses on the engine - raw water
to exchanger, raw water
inlet and heat exchanger
boot. If they were "dry" and show any signs of cracking at the ends I would replace them while I had my head
in the bilge
. I would spray the old ones liberally with WD-40, or coat in vaseline and store them in separate zip-lock bags, and keep them as spares.
- Secure new hoses - tighten the band clamps well. My rule
of thumb is that the new hose rubber will start to "squeeze" into the grooves of the band clamp when the tension is right. Remind yourself to retension these in about 10-15 hours of running as the rubber sets.
- Clearance - Sometimes you can "twist" the hose a bit on the water pipe flange to optimize clearance. You need clearance from the v-belt on one side and the stud/nut on the other. If you can twist the hose about, try to equalize the clearance and I guess you should be able to get a t least a pinkie finger on both sides. You may have to recheck this after reinstalling the alternator.
3 - Alternator Install - You can browse the parts schematics noted above by selecting Electrical system
and alternator. There are three configurations for alternator brackets and hardware
. I suspect you have option A. The idea here is to examine the hardware
, bolts/nuts/washers. To see what the original configuration was. It looks like in this case
- Upper pivot point has a bolt, plain nut and spring washer. A spring washer or split washer is a basic retention device. It indicate no need for loctite but if it makes you feel better you could use some blue.
- Lower inboard. This indicates the stud and a flange nut and no washer. The flange nut has grooves on its mating surface like "teeth." it creates a mechanical retention and indicates no loctite required. Again some blue if it makes you happy.
- Lower outboard
. Indicates a bolt, flat washer and flange nut in the original configuration. My replacement alternator has a threaded pivot at the outer end (which makes tensioning a lot easier) and the hardware is changed to a flat washer (against the pivot arm), a split washer and a bolt.
Ok - Probably a bit of a pedantic post but I hope you find the schematics useful. I have actually downloaded most of the schematics for my engine as pdf and have printed and bound some of them. This is the kind of resource on the internet
that is useful but could disappear at any time.
If I ever sell my boat on I have a fairly good library of manuals
that will add value for the new owner.