I hope that I'm the only one that had to trace impeller parts
(after it failed) into the heat exchanger
etc but I'm afraid not.
There's this long time solution of installing a strainer between the impeller pump and the heat exchanger
, which I tried. The problem is that it gets clogged with other nasty stuff quickly, leading to other disasters.
So, we just installed a new genset and this time I gave it some more thought and came up with a strainer with a self-made PVC insert instead of the standard mesh. See attached photo's.
The strainer I used is a Shureflo model with 3/4" threaded connections. You must at least use this heavy duty model and not the ones with molded hose barbs (been there, those barbs collapse with major leaks
as the result). The original mesh screen
is stainless steel
and 1-1/4" diameter. I still had some thin wall PVC pipe and using some of my artistic abilities (not
! ;-) and drill made the insert as can be seen on the photo's. The biggest holes are still smaller than the channels in the heat exchanger.
Also: make the insert just a little shorter than the original mesh screen
, so that it is sure the strainer bowl screws on all the way. The PVC insert will not give like the original screen, leading to possible leaks
otherwise. There's about 1/4" room for making it shorter without problems but I decided on even less than 1/8".
I had to use new pieces of hose with steel
reinforcement to be able to make the bends without collapsing the hose. I installed the strainer as low as possible and right next to the pump. The new Northern Lights
genset had a nice bracket for holding the drain-hose for the oil
sump which is used for both the strainer and drain hose now. With short pieces of hose, the strainer must be attached (and move with) the engine
We just put the first hour run time on the genset and it works perfectly. The PVC insert even turns around slowly with the rotating water
flow through the strainer, giving another indication of waterflow as a bonus.
Hope that the idea is of use for someone!