Am I totally Screwed?

[cal40john]

Do I see correctly in the second picture? It looks like the seal surface has been mangled.

[RabidRabbit]

I would think that some marina in the area has a diesel tech who would approach it like that. Getting that style service from a traveling, come to you guy is hard, as he really wants to be able to fix it for you. So he spends time tryin the long shot that others wouldnt. Then he wants to get paid and sends you to the specialist to pay again. The old saying "you get what you pay for" is all to true when trying to save money.

[goboatingnow]

I would get the pump to a proper injector pump specialist or failing that replace it with a new or refurbished one. What was done to those fittings is criminal, and it will never be right , chances are high you have swarf inside to, so its " F"ed anyway

Dave

[Blue Crab]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

I would get the pump to a proper injector pump specialist or failing that replace it with a new or refurbished one. What was done to those fittings is criminal, and it will never be right , chances are high you have swarf inside to, so its " F"ed anyway Dave

SWARF. British for **** won't atomize right: F'ed?

Note we're all too gentlemanly to ask if you paid the guy. We know you did.

[casual]

Call me an optimist new fitting and teflon tape.Just don't run the tape to the end of fitting so no errant piece can get into pump they make a fuel resistence tape.Have done it in the past.It worked.

[RabidRabbit]

I dont think it was ever verified that the fittings had anything to do the leak, The hacker he hired try to tighten some fittings, but that isnt a sure thing as to the original source of the drip. Many of the connections on this engine use copper washers, compression fittings, and ball style flare. Teflon tape is for leaking threads, non of these threaded connections need thread sealing. The threads supply the torque to hold pressure on, washers and other metal on metal fittings.

[GaryMayo]

Tap both set of threads. Find a machinist to do this. That will not make the sizes change, it will only mean the two fittings will match again without binding. The machinist will set or seat the plug with a liquid pipe dope more than likely. The solution should be good as new. Pull the pump? If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[RabidRabbit]

People here are being overly optimistic that the stripped threads and torn up fitting are the cause of the drip. To go through a bunch of work to bring it back to pre hack job state will not seem so great when the drip is still there. If the OP is a handy do it yourselfer, go at it (I dont think this is the case). But to pay a pro to fix the damage, just to still have it drip, is a waste.

[perchance]

Originally Posted by SS Little-Devil

I can't see how a tap would solve it, since it would make the hole larger, no? Plus, doesn't that create a risk of getting bits of metal filings into the pump? I think I'll just finish take the pump off myself. From what I understand now, all I needed was some washers and could have fixed it without removing it, but now I'm facing several hundred and possibly thousands of dollars to fix.

Use a thread chasing tap as opposed to a machine tap. A chasing tap will reform the threads without removing any metal.

[Rocketman]

Originally Posted by RabidRabbit

People here are being overly optimistic that the stripped threads and torn up fitting are the cause of the drip. To go through a bunch of work to bring it back to pre hack job state will not seem so great when the drip is still there. If the OP is a handy do it yourselfer, go at it (I dont think this is the case). But to pay a pro to fix the damage, just to still have it drip, is a waste.

I have to agree here with RabidRabbit, the very tinny leak that was present, before the Mecanic messed up the treads, has not been adressed. I have seen these presistant tinny leaks myself, and it usally isn't comming from a loose, or over tightened fitting, or seal. There are a number of reasons why these pumps leak, and usally they will require rebuilding. Depending on the pump, and whats wrong with it, $500-1500, isn't out of the question. If the threads need to be referbished, they will do it during the rebuild, then you would need to replace the messed up fittings that were damaged. There is a procedure that needs to happen on most engines when removing and replacing the injection pump. Find an online manual for your engine and follow the steps. It isn't that hard. Some special tools may be called for but many times you can fabricate the tools or ask a buddy if you have someone. Manybe a fellow cruiser who carries spairs.

[Sir Rondo Normal]

Yes, finally someone said it. A thread chaseer and new copper washers. That should be all that is required to restore it to "prehack" state and then you can re-evaluate the source of the leak, (if it is still there). I bet you will stop the leak if you replace those copper washers, provided you can get enough torque on the banjo bolt. You should be able to, those thread don't look too terribly bad in the photos. Nothing a thread chaser can't fix.

Good Luck!

Edit: Simple/cheap stuff first. Then proceed forward as necessary

[hellosailor]

The threads in the "block" look ok, the threads on the fitting look like they can be cleaned up. I'd vote with the folks saying take it to a machine shop or a diesel shop where they've had plenty of experience saving threads and let them do it so it gets done right the first, ergh, second, time.

Your alleged mechanic had no excuse to use a vicegrip just because he didn't have the right style wrench on hand. It isn't as if you were in danger of sinking if he stepped off the boat to grab the right tool.

[RabidRabbit]

I think the different opinions come from different styles of boat usage. To someone not traveling and light boat usage, a $2000 job is not seen as a good thing, would seem unreasonable and be a last resort. To a full time voyager the security of a new pump done by a pro shop to last years and years for a meer $2000 is the only answer. Everything goes bad eventually so every new part gives me a nice warm feeling inside. Who says once the drip is stopped that a week later the pump wont quit.

[HappyMdRSailor]

SS-LD...

Well this turned into a mess didn't it??? Experience with a leaky CAV dictates my response and suggestions... Repairing the IP in place you cannot tap/insert/helicoil... The likelihood of any minute particle inside the IP after repairs will render it "always suspect" and the IP could quit doing its job at the worst possible navigational moment... = $$$DISASTER$$$

If you are short of funds, and want to try on the cheap end... Suggestions with the "chasing style" tap deserve a go... Use a thick light colored grease to thouroughly coat the tap. (I have some that resembles very thick crystalized honey) Chase 1 or 2 threads at a time, back tap out remove all grease and any metal bits if present... recoat with grease and repeat... Guessing this will be repeated about 10 times... Use new "correct size" copper or aluminum seating washers here and for every location as suggested... You should NOT have to tighten more than a snug pull with a small box wrench or 1/4" ratchet setup...

That being said, I hope your leak is stemmed, but I don't think it will be... Honestly, I would guess that the leak is in the gasket for the top cover on your CAV pump. It is flippin' flappin' hard to see a leak there, as the fuel just kinda wicks out... then a drip...drip...dripppppp....... at the bottom of the pump... If you can remove and replace the gasket with the IP installed... AWESOME... But I'm thinking you can't... R&R the gasket, and I bet your leaks disappear... Don't forget new sealing washers for the two fasteners that hold the top cover on... If the IP has to come out... rebuild and do your insert voodoo then... You might also be able to do this yourself (insert)... These pumps are not rebuildable by the layman... but they are take-apartable and put-togetherable when done with a hundred pictures along the way to guide you...

Finally... I am not in MdR (one boat is), but I think these are they guys I used for parts sources...

Good luck, and I have a CAV manual/parts diagram somewhere if you need it...

California Marine Diesel Inc
1490 Caspian Avenue, Long Beach, (562) 491-5665

[Cheechako]

You need to fix the leak. A drip every second is pretty fast really. Might as well remove it and have it rebuilt or find an exchange if that's possible on that engine. If rebuilding, give them a "heads up" that the threads need repaired sucessfully before they rebuild. Or have that done by a good millwright.