50hp Perkins won't rev past 1900rpm

[Oceanride007]

Welcome back we missed you.

Because you say getting fuel up the injectors the Shutdown solenoid if fine. Your Governor/Fuel rack issue is not stopping you from getting a start.
Have you checked your banjo washers yet?. You haven't removed Fuel Pump have you? Shutdown solenoid?
The area should be clean, wash it down with dish washing detergent, get lots of lighting in there. Leaks and other defects will be more easy discovered.

Apart from the Engine not spinning fast enough, either your lost compression for other reason (Ring/valve) or you got another fuel issue.

I might be tempted to remove a injector, reconnect it to HP pipe and give it a few cranks of starter motor and see if you getting nice spray. I might do all the injectors. I may put a spoon of oil down to seal the rings to eliminate the possibility of ring wear. But I'm trying to avoid temptation.

[Hoohaa]

I am starting to think this is my problem. The accelerateor is clearlybeing restrictedby something internal. Governor related.
Anotherthing. They say this is the same motor that Volvo re badge and use as there 50hp. Any volvo experts out there. Recognize this motor?

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[Hoohaa]

Any word on the water on or off question?

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[Hoohaa]

007. About spend the next half hour cleaning the motor

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[Oceanride007]

I don't understand why he thinks it important, that last image has the speeder control in different position and the top of Fuel pump is red quite different from earlier image, whats happened there, Can you answer my above questions.

[Hoohaa]

Originally Posted by Oceanride007

Welcome back we missed you.

Because you say getting fuel up the injectors the Shutdown solenoid if fine. Your Governor/Fuel rack issue is not stopping you from getting a start.
Have you checked your banjo washers yet?. You haven't removed Fuel Pump have you? Shutdown solenoid?
The area should be clean, wash it down with dish washing detergent, get lots of lighting in there. Leaks and other defects will be more easy discovered.

Apart from the Engine not spinning fast enough, either your lost compression for other reason (Ring/valve) or you got another fuel issue.

I might be tempted to remove a injector, reconnect it to HP pipe and give it a few cranks of starter motor and see if you getting nice spray. I might do all the injectors. I may put a spoon of oil down to seal the rings to eliminate the possibility of ring wear. But I'm trying to avoid temptation.

Have wiped down the banjos and checked them for leaks and paid particular attention to the one at the injector pump inlet can't see any leaks. Was a stripped hose clamp, replaced it.
We have not removed the injector pump.
We have not touched the fuel pump aside from operating the lever for bleeding purposes.
Haven't touched the solenoid.
Have not removed any injectors.

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[forsailbyowner]

Water off so you dont fill your exhaust and engine up with saltwater, and ruin stuff when trying to turn over a hydrolocked engine. My engine wouldnt start using wd40 after a bleed, fired right up with silicone spray though. I use it everytime I bleed after having an episode like your having and someone on this forum recommended it. Even if the shutoff solenoid is closed and throttle in idle it should still fire spraying it into the intake while cranking.

.WD-40.......not "starting fluid"/ether

Heres a little read on starting a diesel with ether on a diesel forum, it seems hot glow plugs and ether dont mix. Otherwise the consensus is used sparingly and cautiously is may be ok. Wd 40 has a lower flash point and gives some cylinder lubrication, the silicone spray has a slightly higher flash point and also offers some cylinder lubrication. When someone on a forum gives advise its best to google it yourself and see what the general consensus is. Ive been told not to do something all kinds of bad things will happen, then researched it and found out the total reverse. There are older diesel tractors and some heavy equipment that were built with ether injection cold start systems.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...engine-312519/

[Hoohaa]

Thought I would try to put some of my thoughts out their.
1. We are getting fuel to all of the injectors. Injector No1 (thanks Bob) still dribling allot of fuel when all the others are squirting fuel out (while bleeding, we have not removed any injectors or the injector pump). As discussed erlier, even if No1 injector is not functioning properly, the motor should still start.
2. We have gone over the system and cannot find any leaks. However, there did appear to be a moist vapour look to one of the clamped hoses at the first inline fuel filter. We trimed the hose, tightened the fitting and reclamped the hose. We now believe there are no leaks.

If you assume that we have no leaks. What else can stop it from starting?

I do not understand the internal workings of the governor and so far everyone thinks that it has no bearing on my starting problem. But.. The accelerator lever is clearly being obstructed by something internal.
Directly above this lever is the old engine kill lever which still works because I can manually operate it when we are cranking the engine and there is an obvious down turn in the engine.
Now, can the governor if malfunctioning, cause the engine to not start, as would the kill lever if jamed on but that lever cuts the fuel so I know thats not the cause. Correct me if I am wrong.
On another note, could it be possable for the first filter to trap some air in the top and to still get fuel all the way up to the injectors?
This is me clutching at straws.

Sorry about the bad spelling.
Oh yeh, can someone explain why the water should be closed/off why trying to bleed the engine?
Jeff

[Hoohaa]

Originally Posted by forsailbyowner

Water off so you dont fill your exhaust and engine up with saltwater, and ruin stuff when trying to turn over a hydrolocked engine. My engine wouldnt start using wd40 after a bleed, fired right up with silicone spray though. I use it everytime I bleed after having an episode like your having and someone on this forum recommended it. Even if the shutoff solenoid is closed and throttle in idle it should still fire spraying it into the intake while cranking.

Sorry. still don't get the water issue?? Its just being pumped around the cooling areas same as always, why or how does it get into areas where it shouldn't? note that this is a fresh water cooled motor using a heat exchanger to cool the fresh water. I am probably stating the obvious. What am I missing hear?

[Hoohaa]

Could hydrolock be my problem? Can it stop the motor from starting?

[Hoohaa]

Ok. Did some research and found that it mixes with the exhaust gasses so could be a disaster. To date the engine is turning over no problems but could it have some water in the cylinders allready and that cause it not to fire?
If so, would turning it over with the water closed remove the water?

[boatpoker]

If there was water in the cylinders it would not turn over, water is not compressible.

[Hoohaa]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

If there was water in the cylinders it would not turn over, water is not compressible.

I am aware of that. I was thinking that there may be a small amount of water ingress not totally filled. ???

[lancelot9898]

I'm not sure how much cranking it takes to back water into the cylinders, but if you're pumping saltwater through your heat exchanger without getting it to start then there is not enough pressure to allow the water to exit from the exhaust so consequently the the water will back into the cylinders. It's the exhaust gases that allow the water to exit and without start up there are no gases.

[forsailbyowner]

Heres the thread where I went thru similiar issues trying to get started. It all ended when i used silicone spray into the intake while cranking. If you havent yet, give it a try. its the silicone lubricant spray you see on the shelves in auto parts stores and other places. You should get the engine firing at least while spraying even with air in lines bad injector pump or whatever. It worked for me.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...8-a-92988.html