50hp Perkins won't rev past 1900rpm

[glenn.225]

One other thing you can check fuel delivery volume at the return line. There will be a spec amount per min at a certian RPM, you can find it in a maintenance manual. Happy TS:-)

[westwinds]

Need to check fuel tank to see if there is any water contamination. You may be able to slip a hose into the bottom of the tank through the fuel filler. Use an oil/fuel hand pump to suck a sample off the bottom of the tank. You may find you have bacterial growth that occurs between the water/diesel interface. If so the diesel is degraded and the tank should be cleaned out.

[Hoohaa]

Originally Posted by Oceanride007

I'm almost certain its the morse control. (Red control rod thingy) could be sticking, over stretched, rusty, loose. Check both ends. May even pay to disconnect it completely take it out run some WD40 thru it, until for sure it moves freely. FYI this is speeder control ie indirecly does it effect fuel, rather it pushes on top of a spring that is balanced by centrifugal weights of the governer (or the electronic or hydraulic equivalent). Best not to run engine at high revs without load.

Thanks, Thats a new idea, I will do some research on.

Originally Posted by Dynamo1181

Lower canister is oil filter. The upper left is fuel filter.

Thanks

Originally Posted by JusDreaming

check to see if there is a screen on the pick up tube in the tank. If possible try feeding fuel from a jug rather than tank.

Thanks. Hadn't thought of that. I can switch onto my second tank and if it still persists it should indicate that the blockage is further down the line.

Originally Posted by shane malone

The easiest way to bleed air out of your fuel system. Step #1 find the line going to the injectors #2 start engine get too a hard idle 1200 rpm ( is my recommendation ) #3 just loosen the connection at the fuel rail and injector ( with a rag placed under ) the retighten when you see only fuel coming out the air will bleed off first.
PS it may take more than once but it will bleed out any air out of your lines.

Thanks. I have put about 4 hours on the motor since it was last bled. Is it possable for air to still be in the system?

Originally Posted by boatpoker

As you have owned the boat for two years and were just told where the fuel filter is today, I have to assume you you have never changed the filter.
I wonder how many years it has been since fuel filters were changed.
You likely have three filters ... A. primary (somewhere between the fuel tank and the engine) B. secondary (the one already pointed out to you) and C. mesh screen in your fuel lift pump.

If you don't have a primary (filter/separator) one should be added to the wish list.

Always try the cheapest easiest thing first.

After changing the fuel filters (primary and secondary if you have both) if the problem is not solved, open up your lift pump and make sure the mesh screen is not all crudded up. Suggest you hire a mechanic and watch over his shoulder while he does these simple tasks. In some primary filters it is very easy to put a filter gasket in improperly and defeat the whole exercise.

Sure sounds like a fuel supply issue

Good advice thanks. The pics are very old. The engine has been fully serviced since then and has just ticked over 100 hours so is due again. I am a bit paranoid about safety and don't want my engine to break down at the wrong time. I usually throw money at the problem, but thought it was time I learnt how to do this myself and with the help of the good blokes on this forum.

Originally Posted by glenn.225

1+ on filters. Also pumps, do you have one or two? I have seen applications where an electric will feed a machanical and one pump will fail, some fuel will get through but not enough to go to max RPM. In cases it will go to max at no load but not under load.

Just the one mechanical pump.

Originally Posted by perchance

The date on the secondary fuel filter says 2010. Time to change it out.

Old pic.

Originally Posted by glenn.225

One other thing you can check fuel delivery volume at the return line. There will be a spec amount per min at a certian RPM, you can find it in a maintenance manual. Happy TS:-)

Will keep this in mind but not shore how I could actuall measure it?

[Hoohaa]

Here's some updated pics

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[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Hoohaa

Here's some updated pics

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Hi I think the white filter with water separator is primary, blue is secondary. If both filters are relatively new try looking at tank pickup and fuel lines, (don't ask me how I know ).
Whereabouts in Sydney are you ?.

[boatpoker]

The white filter is your primary filter/separator and it's hard to tell but the fuel in the bowl looks clean. Take a closer look and see if there is any water in the bottom of the bowl.

Again... hard to tell from the photo but the fuel fitting and the hose circled in the photo look somewhat moist and the hose looks a little swollen as if it is softening. If the hose is very soft, the inside will be even worse and could be hampering fuel flow.

[Hoohaa]

Boats moored in Fivedock bay.
Here's a pic of the gear box. Yes I know it could do with a tidy up. Do you normally do all the oil changes through the dipstick hole or do they have a sump plug?

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[Hoohaa]

Had a good look at the hose, it's actually pretty good and dry when I wiped it with some paper towels. Fuel looks clear as well.

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[Oceanride007]

I don't believe its fuel blockage issue as when the OP tested the Engine in neutral it would have gone to max revs as determined by the speeder control position. If there was issue with air it would bleed thru the injectors, no more than half minute. If it was a bigger leak, you wouldn't get a start and there would be a mess. I'm the one that said its "morse control" friction or adjustment, I got a wager on this. So I got a vested interest in the outcome, do it scientific like, alter one thing and test. Otherwise if you do several you won't know what was the cause was, most likely there is only one. But I like some of the alternative suggestions.

[Hoohaa]

Ok 007. Read your previous post.
Looking at the pictures. Are you able to give me an idea where the Morse control is?
Also. Ran the motor on the second tank today. No change.

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[Hoohaa]

007. Did some googlin. It looks like the Morse control is the levers and cables, linkages ect.
Unless there are components within the engine?
I have reved the engine to 1900 both using the throttle lever and by disconnecting thelinkage at the motor and revving it directly. Same results. 1900rpm.
Have I missed something?

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[Oceanride007]

The Morse control is like a bonnet release cable for your car hood, or brake / gear cables on your bike.
In response to your test, I say "fair dinkum" thats aussie speak for mild surprise.
You have done the filters, checked the mesh in the lift pump, bypassed the operation of morse lever. Then it looks more complex.
I heard another contributor had a similar problem on a kubotu, he never reported back on his findings , if I find it I'll pm him. Other than that consult your maintenance book in regard to freeing up your governor / fuel pump linkage, and what is that lever at the end of the fuel pump block, looks like it was connected to something, what position should it be in, try a wabble.
Try calling Perkins ask em if a jammed fuel lever suggests a problem with the fuel pump.

[Hoohaa]

Just a quick question.
Can you pump the oil out of the sump through the dipstick tube?
Just thinking it aould not be as messy as removing the plug?
Jeff

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Hoohaa

Just a quick question.
Can you pump the oil out of the sump through the dipstick tube?
Just thinking it aould not be as messy as removing the plug?
Jeff

You can buy a hand pump with an integral tank and a tube that goes down the dipstick at virtually any chandlery. Make sure the oil is warm.

You can also permanently install a 12volt pump that connects to the sump drain outlet.

[Hoohaa]

Thanks. Why does the oil need to be warm?

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