2qm20 starting help

[charliehows]

actually the primary use of the valve lifter IS to facilitate bleeding of the engine. The second most common use is to help with starting - whereby the feature which allows the lifter lever to be pushed back to open position and then automatically release when the starter has turned the engine the first revolution, is a great help with a cold, old, high compression engine. The only thing the lifter is not useful for is hand starting the engine - a 600lb gorilla might be able to overcome the brick wall of compression you hit when you release the lever, but not an ordinary mortal. In theory it can be done by separating the lever so it only releases one cyl and then releasing the second when the first is firing but I've never tried this myself.
Might I suggest exhausting the most common, simple causes in the fuel system before embarking on an engine rebuild...?

[lonesoldier0408]

On a side note, I put a T fitting on the feed line, at the injection pump. Ran a hose to the fuel return line, with a shut-off valve in it. With my electric fuel pump and that valve, changing filters just got a lot easier.😏

[BurningDaylight]

No progress yet, I am hoping to get some time to try the direct fuel method to isolate the problem this weekend. Since the boat sat for almost a year, I am picking up some new fuel filters tomorrow, as I am sure I will need them when the engine gets running. I will keep it updated, and I am sure I will have more questions after my next round of troubleshooting. Thanks again everyone for all the answers and insights.

[Wotname]

Good plan.
Maybe try SailorChick suggestion of trying to run it with one only decompress lever operated and then the otber first as this is a quick and simple way to tell if there is a crook cylinder.

[BurningDaylight]

Had a chance to do some testing. Checked the fuel filter on the engine, looked almost brand new. The fuel was clean. Installed a new filter anyway and closed it up empty. Cranked the engine and tried to bleed it, fuel filled up and came out the bleeder on the top of the filter. Bled the rest, but not seeing much fuel at the injectors. Still won't run more then a few seconds. Someone suggested I remove and clean the injectors, so that's what I'm working on now. Just wanted to give an update, hopefully one day I'll be able to say it's running.

[Wotname]

Thanks for the update, I was just wondering how you were getting on with this problem.
Keep going and the problem will eventually be found!
Good luck.

[Cheechako]

Strangely.... I have never had to bleed anything but the injector nut on the GM series or the one QM I had....

[rbyham]

I bought a new to me sailboat in February that came with 1978 3qm30. Same engine just one more cylinder. It had not run for a couple years at least and had very little use since literally 2005. My first move on the engine was bypass complete fuel system and connect fresh 3 gal can of fuel to the fuel pump. I simply took the fuel line off the second off engine filter and stuck it in the fuel can. Then it was a matter of bleeding carefully (yes it is a three stage process) and careful use of the decompression lever. Took a couple days but it finally fired and has run well since. I did ultimately reconnect the old fuel system after replacing filters and checking fuel tank condition. The fuel in the tank was at least 5 years old but checked clear with no sediment in bottom of tank. While running one day on the 3 gallon tank of clean fuel I simply pulled the hose out of the clean fuel and put it in a bottom that I had pulled from the tank and the engine kept right on running. I am still trying to burn up the 20 gallons of 5 year old fuel but engine is running fine. I would second the idea of bypassing old fuel system and then carefully bleeding. Sounds like you already know that start up requires full throttle quickly pulled back on firing... I decompress the engine at first for a few seconds to get oil flow going as I dont like to start a "dry" engine. My decompression rail does not automatically spring closed. Not sure if that is something I will need to address. So I had to go redneck on it and tie a rope to it. This let me hit the key and get the decompressed engine spinning at which point I would pull the rope and she would fire...

[Badsanta]

You said that put in a new filter then bled the fuel line. I would open the decompression levers and open the nuts on the injectors a turn or two. Make sure your battery is fully charged because you want a good fast start. Give it about 3/4 throttle then a few cranks till fuel starts coming out injector high pressure line that you opened then close them. Give a few more short cranks to inject fuel into the cylinder being carfull not to pump too much water because you can have water back up into the cylinder and hydrolocke the motor. I turn off my water intake then quickly open it if the motor starts. You cannot bleed the air out using an electeic fuel pump or that manual lever for the fuel pump. My bet is a week start and air in the lines. Air wont pump through the injectors it has to be bled out.

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[alctel]

I have a 2QM20 and had the same issue for a while - turns out I hadn't bled it correctly.

There are a couple places to bleed it, make sure you do all of them. I'd also replace ALL the hoses that you can, I bet you have an air leak.

[BurningDaylight]

Thanks for the info. I am wondering if maybe I didn't bleed it correctly. I'm gonna go out Sunday and install the injectors I cleaned. Then my plan is to disconnect the line coming out of the fuel filter and into the injector pump and place it in a new 1 gallon gas can with fresh diesel and see what happens. If I can get it to stay running, then I'm going to replace the hoses and all that. I've ordered the racor filter so should have it by then too.

Are there any videos or better documentation on bleeding then what's in the owners manual I got? Thanks

[BurningDaylight]

Its running! Took a lot of bleeding but it now runs. However it is leaking water from the bottom of the water pump. Feels like a small hole in the bottom center. It is still pushing water out the exhaust while running also. Suggestions? Thanks again for the help n getting running!

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by BurningDaylight

Its running! Took a lot of bleeding but it now runs. However it is leaking water from the bottom of the water pump. Feels like a small hole in the bottom center. It is still pushing water out the exhaust while running also. Suggestions? Thanks again for the help n getting running!

Your water pump should be rebuilt. or at least resealed. They will often continue to work although leaking out the hole.

[sailorchic34]

A fix that sometimes works on the leaking raw water pump is to take it apart and clean the crud that has built up on the shaft around the rubber water seal and reassemble. More then 1/2 the time that will fix it for quite some time. Better yet, put a new seal on it, available at any bearing supply house. The seals wear out far faster then the bearings.

[BurningDaylight]

Thanks! Gonna order a new seal. It doesn't leak at around 1200rpm, droplets at 1500rpm, a more steady stream at 2000rpm. Assuming my tach is correct, which it may not be. Just glad to finally hear it run