2 Stroke Outboard Storage

[HopCar]

"What type of fuel bottles does it use?"
I usually run it from an 11 pound fiberglass tank connected to the motor with a hose. It will also run off the 16 oz. propane bottles that are used for camping stoves. The bottle screws right into the back of the engine. A lot of people just use steel barbeque tanks.

The little bottle is an expensive way to run them but is so convenient that a lot of people don't seem to mind the added expense.

"How much fuel does it use?"
The 2.5 will run for about an hour on a pound of propane at wide open throttle.
At 3/4 throttle it'll go about twice that.

The 5.0 will run about 1/2 hour at WOT on a pound of propane.
The 9.9 will run about 15 minutes at WOT on a pound of propane. The 9.9 does not accept the 16 oz. bottles.

" Is it a hassle carrying around propane like that or more convenient?"
Transporting and storing propane is a lot easier and cleaner than gasoline plus it doesn't go bad in storage. I have a propane emergency generator at home. My stash of propane is over ten years old but when I test the generator, once a year in June, it starts and runs fine.

"Is there a way to accurately see how much fuel is left or do you have to do the shake and feel the weight method?"

Shake and feel with the little bottles. I can see the level in my fiberglass tank. If you are using a steel barbeque tank, pick up a fish scale from a tackle store and weigh it.

[ranger58sb]

I wonder if it'd be possible to effectively empty (and probably dry) a 2-stroke gasoline fuel system and carburetor using compressed air fed through the fuel line that connects to an external tank?

Essentially flushing the system... using a compressor feed at some reasonable pressure setting?

Even more interesting, I wonder if higher pressure could be used to clean the insides of a carb, maybe the jets, without even dismounting the carb from the motor... but also without damage to the diaphragm, etc. ?

-Chris

[ranger58sb]

Partial/interim answer to my own question...

Yes, it is possible to flush parts of the fuel system with compressed air.

I keep a couple un-hosed (?) male plugs, so I can open both ends of the external fuel hose and let any left-over gasoline residue evaporate. Using one of those on the supply side, and connected to the compressor at that end, allows pressurized air to flow through the fuel lines and either out the carburetor or out the internal fuel tank -- depending on which way the source selection valve is set.

I ran it out both directions a couple of time, with a rag over the carburetor and another over the internal fuel tank inlet to catch any liquid fuel that might have remained. (All this after having already run the lines and carb dry, after fogging, etc.)

The rags did apparently catch just a little bit of residue, judging by smell. It's obvious the onboard fuel lines are now empty, and the two small screen filters are dry.

I only used approx. 10 psi, but it remains to be seen -- until Spring -- whether it's an OK procedure, whether the carb diaphragm is undamaged... and whether it makes any difference when it comes to easy commissioning after storage.

-Chris

[bfloyd4445]

Originally Posted by phorvati

I've always had 2 carbs for any of my outboards. Every season i switch the one I use and keep the other one as spare. Before i put the spare one away, I disassemble an inspect needles, jets, etc. I blow carb cleaner through all passages and assemble the carb back. Wrap it in paper towel and put it in a ziplock bag. It might be an overkill but if you don't have sea-tow, and rely on your outboard as I do, i found this to make me completely self sufficient and worry free.

you don't need to do that if you pickle them. But your way is the absolute best

[Opie91]

Originally Posted by ranger42c

I wonder if it'd be possible to effectively empty (and probably dry) a 2-stroke gasoline fuel system and carburetor using compressed air fed through the fuel line that connects to an external tank?

Essentially flushing the system... using a compressor feed at some reasonable pressure setting?

Even more interesting, I wonder if higher pressure could be used to clean the insides of a carb, maybe the jets, without even dismounting the carb from the motor... but also without damage to the diaphragm, etc. ?

-Chris

It might be easier to just open the drain that is in the bottom of most 2 stroke carburetors.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Opie91

It might be easier to just open the drain that is in the bottom of most 2 stroke carburetors.

You would think... but the drain on this one requires completely dismounting the carb... in turn preceded by removing the fuel hoses, etc... And then I'd have to put it all back together again.

Actually, hooking up the compressor and blowing it out took me all of about 5 minutes, no tools, easy.

If it turns out to be useful... so much the better

-Chris

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by bfloyd4445

you don't need to do that if you pickle them. But your way is the absolute best

I see in your posts #3 and #31 that by "pickle" you just mean mixing some additives in the fuel. Yes? (Not restoring a sunken engine, as in Gord's post #11, right?)

FWIW, I have found the additives I've tried -- Stabil, Marine Stabil, Sea Foam -- useless for long-term storage.

Likely -- at least in part -- because of the ethanol gas we have to use here, but...

Useless.

They do seem to help keep the gas useable for maybe about a month... although I start recycling it once it hits the 3 week mark...

-Chris

[Opie91]

Originally Posted by ranger42c

You would think... but the drain on this one requires completely dismounting the carb... in turn preceded by removing the fuel hoses, etc... And then I'd have to put it all back together again.

Actually, hooking up the compressor and blowing it out took me all of about 5 minutes, no tools, easy.

If it turns out to be useful... so much the better

-Chris

Hope it works out.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Opie91

Hope it works out.

Me, too. It was so easy it makes me suspicious, though

OTOH, it at least looked like it may be helpful. And as long as it doesn't damage anything (thinking about the diaphragm) then it's easy enough to add to the whole storage regime.

-Chris

[Bestathook]

Having small motors that take 10:1, 20:1, 32:1, 40:1, and 50:1 gas/oil mix, I have come up with ways of dealing with fuel and gas problems.

One way is to mix less gas, so that it gets fresh gas more often. Using a vibrating engraver, I mark one pint and one quart on a big glass jar. I have a tall thin graduated cylinder to accurately measure small amounts of 2 cycle oil. I mix up a quart or a pint at a time as needed for short usages.

I have had good luck with stabil and running the carb dry with the fuel tap closed. But there is still the problem of gum build up, but it occurs over time. Auto parts stores sell a fuel additive called "Sea Foam" that will clean your fuel system quickly and efficiently, getting rid of any built up gum. It is not good to leave Sea Foam in a stored motor, so I mix a small batch, burn it, then refill the tank with gas with stabil.

I once bought a Honda CX500 motorcycle that ran rough, getting 32 miles per gallon. Two tanks with SeaFoam, and it smoothed out, and got 51 miles per gallon. It works. A rough running gas motor will visibly run smoother in less than a minute when Sea Foam is added.DO NOT ADD MORE THAN THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY! Gasket problems may result.

I also paint the mix ratios on my gas tanks in big letters, and make a metal tag with "gas" and the" mix ratio" stamped on the tag, with a hole next to each word. A fishing snap connector in the appropriate hole tells me what I have in the tank.

For very long range storage, I use a spray in the carb fogger, (which fogs the whole neighborhood at the same time). But being a Seagull fan, I am used to a bit of smoke.