Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[slowbat]

Originally Posted by Mark Johnson

My apologies if this is a repeat...

HOMEMADE MULTIHULL NETTING:

Start with black vinyl dipped netting. This stuff is really cheep from wholesale suppliers for recreational nets. T
Mark

Thanks for the tip Mark! any advice on the wholesale suppler you use? Could this be done in white? Any advice for nets that would be walked on?

Hello "A" framers,
I would like to build some new cabin side planks / side board over the nets. Anyone have recommendations to keep the weight down? I have seen several photos and styles.
All the best,
Dan

P.S. photo's of my cheek block rebuild

[Jimske]

"There are a lot of ways to make nets that work, but this one really stands the test of time. I guess we spent 4 days on making, coating, and installing ours...

Hope this helps,
Mark"

Yup, the pro way of doing things. Nice job as usual, Mark!

Looks like the same stuff.

Now for the amateur way! Cost $0.00 Installation Time: 3 hours. One of the pics shows the aluminum strip that is screwed to the underside of the hull using the same round head screws. This is the time consuming part because you got to lace it or pull out each screw - I just lace it.

I don't walk on them but throw anchors, sail bags, whatever on them. It would be fairly easy to make a walk-able platform out of some light weight perforated material. Just add a few more straps crossways and lay it down.

I do lay on them as is without a problem using a camping mat.

Jim

[Boatguy30]

Side beams for a frame boats? Try okoume ply 9mm the plan width with 1 by 2 framing around the lower side and edges all epoxy sealed will notch into those nice end pieces you have there.

MARK
I have looked and tried to find decent size polyester netting in any color and have only seen decent diameter say 3/16" like your pic in polypropylene. Do you remember where you got it in polyester?

[Mark Johnson]

Hi Dan... I'll see if I can help.

OPEN NETS:
My "nylon" nets supplier, I think, was: Blue Mountain Nets, out of Al.
Blue Mountain Industries in Anniston, AL 36201 - Chamber of Commerce

It was VERY high quality stuff, really cheep, (well under $100), and perfect for the front nets shown on Delphys. They WOULD catch us, but we don't walk in them.
I DID ocasionally walk on the nets strung on my previous boat (already shown), but it REALLY sagged when I did, so I usually walked the beams.

COLOR:
I would stick with black (vinyl coated) nets, because of the chafe protection and the UV barrier it provides. If you REALLY wanted it white, you could buy black dipped netting, and paint white dip over it. (5X) Sunrise nets sells black dip (and white dip I believe), by the quart. You can paint dip on the netting with a thick nap roller, and do your border with throw away brushes. It is water based...

If the net is all white dipped from the get go, without black under it, then it is just a partial UV barrier. The sun shines right through white or any other very light colored paint, primer, dip, or fabric! (like sail covers)...

All white uncoated nylon nets might last 5 years, and black vinyl dipped nets, that are refurbished every 5 years, might last 30!

The nets we have, as with similar nets made of large square / large cord open nylon... CAN be walked on, if the attachments are strong enough. Thing is, your foot may sink in 12" with each step! It is very clumsy walking indeed. They are fine to catch you if you fall, but not to walk on. Perhaps if the net was polyester and strung under hundreds of pounds of tension, using mounts that are no further than 6" apart? I'm sure it could be done, but it might not turn out to well on the first attempt. Even then, I would expect around 8" of sag with each step.

For really comfortable walking, professionally made, bordered "Polyester" mesh tramps, (like from Sunrise Nets), are the cat's meow! Your feet only sink in about 1.5" with each step, so the tramps are really easy to walk on. We DO have them strung REALLY REALLY tight, with frequent independent mounts. These two tramp/nets for our vent holes, were $1,500 from Sunrise, 18 years ago... So, like I said, they're EXPENSIVE!

You could, of coarse, buy the materials and make your own mesh tramps, if you have a SailRite sewing machine, but what you get from them is worth the money. Their borders are 1/4" thick with multiple reinforcing layers, and VERY rugged. We expect to get 10 more years from ours, with re-coats on 5 year intervals.

If money is short, you can just make your nets of polyester, (Sunrise may have what you need), and make a rope border as previously described, out of New England Rope's "polyester" 3 strand. Then, string it as tightly as you can buy hand, with a 3 turn trucker's hitch on each lashing. A drop of epoxy on each knot makes it fail safe!

If it turns out right, walk on it at will, but carefully!

SIDE PLANKS:
The lightest thing would be glassed over Kledgacell or Divinicell foam core planks, about 1.5" thick. You would want to glass it well with biaxial or unidirectional fiberglass, especially on the bottom. Then use bias cut fabric tapes on the well radiused sides and ends.

Just like with wood, any holes drilled have to be drilled large and WELL epoxy coated, like 4x on day one, then sand inside with rolled sandpaper or a chain saw file, and 4X more on day two. If you prefer the "drill WAY large and fill the holes with bog" method, followed by re-drilling... Then do this process before glassing the plank, so that the large bog filled area is under the glass.

If this is too high tech for you, you could just make your plank out of two layers of 3/4" red cedar, re-trim the ends and edges, radius it, and glass it. If it is too springy, it would be good to use biaxial or even a strip of unidirectional carbon fiber on the bottom, (under the glass). This would be heavier than foam, but way lighter than a pressure treated plank. Paint and non skid the top!

Dan, your cheek block re-build looks great, just be sure to glass it carefully, OR at least put on 3 or 4 coats of epoxy and sand it fair, THREE TIMES! After 10 years, the things that develop splits, will always be the unglassed parts with an insufficient epoxy coating on them. Then, when you paint them, use an opaque grey primer underneath, no matter what paint system you prefer.

Once it has cured and beyond its chemical window... NOTHING STICKS TO UNSANDED EPOXY, not even more epoxy. There must be NO spots left still shiny before re-coating, with anything.

Hope this helps...
Mark

[Boatguy30]

For anyone thinking if buying a Searunner, there is a 1972 SR 40 for sale in Jacksonville on EBay. I believe the cockpit is mostly rotten and likely a lot else, but is maybe a worthwhile project.

also, saw on SailingTexas that the "folding" Searunner 31 is for sale in Wisconsin

[rossad]

Thanks for passing that info on Boatguy30.
That's just what this thread is all about.

[slowbat]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

For anyone thinking if buying a Searunner, there is a 1972 SR 40 for sale in Jacksonville on EBay. I believe the cockpit is mostly rotten and likely a lot else, but is maybe a worthwhile project.

also, saw on SailingTexas that the "folding" Searunner 31 is for sale in Wisconsin

Interesting looking 40' on CL in Moterey CA. for 20K

CL monterey all for sale / wanted boats - by owner

[Boatguy30]

WOW! This is a great looking SR 34. Maybe the one that all the pics of in Case for Cruising Trimaran?

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/boa/4057926663.html

Now, I'm sure it needs a bit of work; but what boat doesn't?

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

WOW! This is a great looking SR 34. Maybe the one that all the pics of in Case for Cruising Trimaran?

34' Brown Searunner Trimaran

Now, I'm sure it needs a bit of work; but what boat doesn't?

LOOKS like a real bargain!

Jim

[Boatguy30]

Seems to be realistically priced inline with what other boats have recently sold for. Anyhow, is for sure the boat in Case for Cruising Trimaran. Looks to have been little used. A new porta potti and different stove, a few lamps missing, more electrical gadgets.

[slowbat]

Hello Searunners,
Looking for tips on how to prep and paint the inside of the centerboard trunk. The glass looks good. should I try to prep it for epoxy primer? if so any advice on trying to get the bottom paint off inside the box?
Thanks,
Dan

[Roy M]

slowbat, having done just what you are asking, two months ago, here are my thoughts: After pulling the board, put some bright lights at the bottom facing up to give you a better view. First you need to get the crusty stuff off the trunk, usually bryozoans and tube worms, hopefully not barnacles. Where you can reach, use a HEAVY DUTY wide paint scraper or an old chisel to clear as much as possible. Then, make a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid, swimming pool acid), then dip a mop in the solution and insert the mop from the cockpit, downwards. This should take care of any remaining beastie tidbits. Hose it down afterwards to clean off the surface, then do it again with a solution of bicarbonate of soda and water, using the same mop. Let it dry, including the surrounding boatyard surface because you will be laying in it for the rest of the exercise.

With a strong flashlite or extension lamp, look carefully from the bottom to search for any any cracks or damage. Hopefully, you won't find any because working in this confined space would not be fun. If you do have problems, let us know and we can probably offer some remedies (after you have had a good cry).

Don't worry too much about old paint in the trunk. Primer will stick just fine to it, then give the interior a coat of bottom paint. It doesn't have to look pretty. Be sure to check the blocks that haul the trunk down, the axle that supports it, and the axle gland (usually thruhulls with screw-on caps).

[rossad]

Good ideas Roy.
I found one of these machetties work really well cleaning inside the trunk. Sharpened they dont gouge and can nicely fit between the board and the trunk on a little angle that works well from underneath. anything with a sharp corners eg chisel can catch the glass and tear. I like your mop and solution ideas.

[Roy M]

Ross, I keep THAT instrument for fending off pirates and giant squid!

[Mark Johnson]

Quote:
"Hi Mark - question?
What is the best way to configure a downhaul on a big genny? Run through the hanks, attach to the halyard, the head, use a fair lead on deck, block? I can't douse the genny too well solo in high winds and nobody on the tiller.

Thanks in advance, Jim"



Hi Jim,
I had this sort of poor man's furling arrangement on my first multihull cruiser, 37 years ago... You just need some 1/8" nylon parachute chord that connects to the headsail's halyard right at the shackle. It goes down to the deck next to the tack, through a very small standup block, and then, (for solo operation), route it back to a small cleat within reach of the mast's headsail halyard cleat.

To lower the sail, uncleat the halyard and pay it out as you pull the small down line. The sail will fall at first, but then need coaxing by pulling it the rest of the way down. It is nice to have your hank on sails safely pinned on deck, before going forward to tie it off to the bow rail, or put it in a bag.

I had success with the down line run outside of the hanks on my little 23, but IF the piston hanks are large relative to the stay, running the chord "through" each hank would work better, imo...

As with roller furling, rolling/dousing the sail by letting it flog first, or almost flog... is OK in 15 knots of wind. In over 25 knots of wind, however, turning to head down wind first, would make it SO much easier. With you being solo, you may actually find that sailing on a broad reach, with loose sheets first, (but not quite flogging), is your best opportunity to go get the genny down ASAP! Experiment, and see what works for you.

One last thought... IF you are heading downwind first, be sure you either "prevent" the main boom or pull it close to center, before the boom becomes a "BAT". Ouch!

Mark