Luis....Bon Dia! ( I work with many Portugues fishing
in Alaska) I have some photos of a repair I had to make to my Searunner
. Although it is a plywood boat
, the ideas are similar. My hull
is 1/2" or 12mm thick. To make a repair as strong as the wood you have to "scarf" in a piece. you need to have the wood "overlapp" without making a patch show.....
is: A scarf is 8 times as wide as the wood you are repairing. So in my example I have to take and taper or scarf the wood 4" wide. In the photo
you can see you go from full thickness down to nothing over the 4". You then build a replacement piece with the same 4" wide scarf that will mate up to this scarf. This gives you a wide glue joint, and the wood will remain the same thickness. No bumps or ridges.
The best way I found to do this, is use a circular saw (power) and set the depth
over four passes. Start at the top with 1/4 the depth
, got to 1/2 the depth, the 3/4 the depth, then full depth. Then you use a grinder (the disk I show turned out to be best for me) Or planer or belt sander. With ply wood it is easy to see how much you remove as you can follow the plys down. The saw cuts give you the depth you need. Any dips will be filled by epoxy
. It does not have to be perfect, just remove enough wood.
The wood work will take time but will less money
to fix if it is not too big when compared to your rig. In Mexico
, very salty) We use 10 years as a rule
to replace the wire. We are starting to use synthetic line as a replacement. We have a racing
cat in the Carribian waters right now and they are really happy with it. We can keep in touch. It would be WAY charper to ship as it is so light in weight....but you still have the darn import fees
The last shot is the bow all fixed, it was damaged on a frinds trailer
when I was not present....what are friends for?
Look foward to reports on your boat