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Old 29-09-2010, 09:10   #631
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Have you considered throwing the whole thing out and installing a composter such as the Airhead or Natures head? There is a long thread on this forum on composters so i wont go into it except to say that they work well and dont stink.
Steve.
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Old 29-09-2010, 09:16   #632
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I fully agree with Mark that a good plywood/glass/epoxy tank,pvc pipe and the minimum amount of high quality hose will give a odor free system.
Steve.
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Old 29-09-2010, 09:21   #633
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Talking

To remove the holding tank I have to undo the hose clamps holding the two 1 1/2" vent hoses, both at the top of the tank and the hull sides, then remove the two hoses since they block access to the fastening bolts in the bulkhead. I used tee nuts imbedded in the bulkhead to avoid having nuts and washers in awkward places. Then, at the bottom of the tank, is a plumbing union joining the waste hose to the tank base. When these are removed, the four bolts holding the tank to the tee nuts in the bulkhead can be removed for service to the tank, inspection or maintenance of the deck waste line, or if I have an overzealous customs agent who thinks I might have secrets stored in the holding tank or the space forward. The tank has a large access plate built into the top, also secured with machine screws and tee nuts. I think I used a polysulfide sealer to make a removeable seal.

The entire tank was built with 1/4" ply, completely sealed in West System epoxy. The inside corners are all "beer can fillets" (thank you Jim Brown for that technique), a flush edged 1 1/2" thruhull sits at the lowest corner of the tank, with two 1 1/2" thruhulls at the top corners for cross ventilation. The back panel of the tank extends above and below the tank to provide the support to mount it to the bulkhead. The exterior was then painted with Sterling LP.

The reason for the design, in the first place, was to have a well-ventilated tank that uses Raritan's "K.O." aerobic bacteria to manage the waste smells. Peggy Hall (AKA the Head Mistress) promoted this type of tank several years ago. I tried it and never looked back. The hoses vent to both sides of the bow, so the slightest breeze actively pushes lots of air into and out of the holding tank. I suppose I could culture my own replacement batch of K.O., but it has never been worth the minimal effort to go buy another gallon. The tank has a tee, below the union, where the deck hose connects for shore-side tank cleaning, or the "honey bucket" service that visits every two weeks to a month at the dock. At sea or in unrestricted waters, the red valve handle is left in the open position and all waste enters the tank from the Lavac pump (I used a Whale 10 instead of the Henderson, only because it had an aluminum body). Waste goes in and washes right out at a thruhull just above the waterline. No macerator pump is needed since the waste gets broken up by the pumping action. Gravity and oxygen are free.
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Old 29-09-2010, 09:54   #634
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Steve, good sugestion.
I have seen a few composting heads on larger boats, and they got good reviews. I also recently helped install one that had an electric heater & fan to keep it usable in the winter. (I havn't looked up the thread yet) Some thoughts however, about putting one in a Searunner... I think that as far as the 34'er and under sizes, possibly the 37 & 40 as well, these heads have too large a footprint and are too tall to boot. Also, with the vent stack being right in front of the cockpit "lounging area" their could be an odor problem, when anchored facing the wind. There is the issue of too cold a temps shutting them down as composters. Also, if one isn't carefull, you could run afoul of the law. In places like the Fl Keys, it is illegal to put the contents in the water of coarse, but also on the ground, (except on your own yard), OR even a dumpster! I know... that's stupid, it's mostly peat moss by then, but... Seems the issue is that you empty the tank before the contents have totally finished composting, and the rest needs to be done elsewhere. (makes more sense if you have a land base to do this at, like in your flower bed!)

These seem to be best on larger boats with an aft cabin head, that live full time anchored out, or trawlers that can have a really tall vent stack. For certain applications, the composting head is the perfect most environmentally friendly option. (even on land, where we recently installed one)
Mark


Roy, You have thought it all out completely, as always... I really admire your work!
Mark
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Old 02-10-2010, 14:38   #635
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SR 34 Maui

There were a few West Coast guys asking after the SR 34 in Maui a few months back. I was wondering if anyone actually ever made it to have a look? I'll be in Oahu later in the month and was thinking of going over as his price seems to be getting more flexible, but too late this year to move anywhere.

Cheers,
Jeff
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Old 03-10-2010, 20:58   #636
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Hey Jeff,

I visited Bob on that 34' Searunner,Ragtime, on Maui in March. I have my notes packed away, but I do have bags of pix to send you if you like.

Bob was good to talk to and he seemed to know what he was doing in regards to fixing up the boat. Take that with a grain of salt though, as I am a neophyte in the world of boats and did not know what to ask at the time

PM me your email address if you want my pictures.

Dave
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Old 09-10-2010, 08:56   #637
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Replacing SS standing rigging with Dux?

I need some feedback... You especially could help Jack.
I am considering using Dux rigging for my running backs, but have a couple of reservations. One is the lifespan. They claim 5 years, as compaired to 8 for 316 SS. This confuses me... As a boatbuilder/cruiser, I don't have many racing friends, or for that matter friends with million dollar mega yachts. But none of the thousands of people I have known over 40 years of doing this, has changed out their SS rig @ 8 years old, just because! Mine, (316 1X19 wire), is 14 years old, and technically due for replacement, yet it looks perfect. (I use properly installed Sta Locs). In all of these years, and tens of thousands of miles, I have re-tuned only once. (almost no creep) In fact, as I replace my wires, I'd gladly have them destruction tested, and bet $1,000 that they would test out at 90% of their origional strength. At least I'd do it once. I can't afford to be wrong more than that!

With synthetics exposed to UVs, If & when it is determined that 5 years is the safe replacement interval, that's when I'd replace it! So this issue of having from half to one third the lifespan, makes the Dux look quite expensive by comparison to SS. Time will tell?

I have re-read Jacks impressive volume of information on Dux and gather that replacing my too stretchy 1/4" wires with 7MM Dux would result in "creep" that would require regular Re-tuneing. However if I go with 9MM, I have VASTLY more strength at less stretch, and almost no "creep" issues. This is a plus, so I'd oversize to minimize "creep".

Also I see that there is a UV cover available with slightly more windage. (double the lifespan)? I assume that the splice over the terminator is left bare? Is this the case? If so, is it assumed that the line being thicker at the splice/terminator, makes it enough stronger here that the UVs don't make this area the stay's weak link.

Then there is windage... I know that due to the vortices created, things like a wire have far more wind resistance than their windage alone would indicate. This creates parasitic drag. (especially with our 12 wires) Has it been determined that the undeniably "lighter on her feet" motion of a lighter rig, is a bigger plus than a rig with less windage. I would assume that a fatter but way lighter rig wins out, but wonder if it is a fact?

Then there is one more concern. The terminators being of aluminum, and attched to the SS mast fork tangs by a SS clevis pin, (with the cheeks chaffing the anodizing), or my runner's SS pin attched snapshackle, makes for a corrosion potential. This may be purely cosmetic, or it may eat away enough material to make the terminators expendable, just like the line, in 5 or 6 years. (even more expensive)

Don't get me wrong. I like the idea of using Dux. I plan to give it a try on my runners... I hope this stuff really is a viable alternative to conventional SS wire. I know I need a less stretchy alternative to what I have. (1/4" 316 1X19 SS wire) I just have these reservations, and this is too new a technology to have a proven track record, at least as far as a replacement for a sailboat's standing rigging. (at a similar cost over time?)

Any feedback on the subject would be appreciated...
Mark J
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Old 21-10-2010, 01:58   #638
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What do you guys think

I have always wanted to sail. I am now learning, and after looking at cruisers for months I ran across the searunners. They seem perfect for cruising, and well, I think I would like to have one to start my cruising adventures. I found a 31 foot searunner for sale in the area where I would like to purchase a boat. However, I am currently abroad, and not so knowledgable about these boats.
I have included pictures of the boat I am thinking about buying, and I would like to know what to look for and how to look for it when looking the boat over, which a friend of mine will do.
I also would like to know if anyone knows this boat? The seller doesn't see to know a lot about it.
What do you think the value is?
Realistically, how much of a project am I looking out?
It seems that the cockpit is not in the center, is this common?

I would appreciate all information you could give me.

Thanks,

Dwaine

Pics are attached

sellers information about boat


selling my boat. it is brown design searunner 31. it is fiberglass over wood. it is very dirty and in need of a great cleaning. there are a few areas that need repaired. one of the pontoons smacked against the dook in a strom and kinda split the wood in a area about foot in size. it is not all the way threw and very repairable. a six inch square on the main hull has been chunked out somehow , but it too is not all the way threw. both are above the water line and dont take on water. the only other damage is the storage bin in the helm area have rotted away the were made of exposed wood. there is a soft spot extending out from one of the storage bins. im sure there are a few more spots one would come across when getting to work on this girl but nothing to major. a few paople where i moore the boat have looked at her and they say she is solid. it has the jib and main sail. im guessing a 30 foot beam, but im not sure riggin will need replaced. there not roten just stiff. she is a very shollow draft. no keel to speak of. maybe two feet. like i said she is a dirty mess, but a good weekend of cleaning would make all the diff. in the world. i just havent the time. it is moored in Everett Wa. in fresh water. i keep her up river for 200 dollars a month. its a realy nice place. its a gated retired farm with a grounds keeper there 24 / 7 to keep an eye on things. great place to spend the weekend or a short stay, but no live aboard. there is a berth in the bow that fits a double mattres and enough room on one side for another bunk. ther is a diesel stove for cook and heat. sea water sink. and an eng. slash storeg room in the rear under the helm. no eng. this really is the coolest boat i have ever seen, and i hate to let her go, but i just havent the time. i bought it with grand intentions of learning my self to sail. but its just not going to happen. so its time to let her go to someone that has some time to make her beautiful again. thanks for stopping by if you have any ? plz ask.



I really do want to have one of these amazing cruising crafts, but am just not so experienced and versed on the subject, YET. However, I never shy from a challange
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Old 21-10-2010, 05:02   #639
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Sorry, better pictures of previous post

These pictures are bigger so you can look at the boat, and tell me what you think.


Thanks again,
Dwaine
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Old 21-10-2010, 07:33   #640
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Dwaine,

That is not a Searunner. Looks to be a Piver. Looks like one heck of a lot of work. Search around and see if you can find a Searunner. IMHO a far better boat.

Rann
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Old 21-10-2010, 11:30   #641
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^^ agree. I expected about two weeks of fulltime work on my boat this summer, and it turned into two solid months - ie the whole summer. my boat was in faaaar better condition than that. that's a project boat that will require probably two years in the yard before she'd be ready to go cruising... he's right, it's *possible*, but unless there were extenuating circumstances (ie that's the boat you were born on and restoring it was a labour of love) I would stay far away from that one.
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Old 21-10-2010, 12:10   #642
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I would run, not walk, away from this boat. Not a Searunner, I think. Maybe a Piver. Not a great boat to begin with. Pretty damn old, damaged, stored outdoors, and in sunny Everett, Washington no less. Likely not marine plywood so, if the water has penetrated the core of the plywood, it may well have migrated much farther into the hull than the visible extent of the damage might lead you to believe (or hope). Looks to be permeated with mildew and mold. There are ferns growing from the overhead in one of the photos! Hate to be harsh but it's cheaper than the lessons a dead boat will teach. Just out of morbid curiosity, what is the owner asking for it?
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Old 21-10-2010, 13:21   #643
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All so true... An old dead piver. Much more work than starting from scratch. (Trust me on this)... Especially if you compaired it to a similar sized CC design, in which you shared the work, as well as expense of the construction building, and the mould, with another CC builder builder. OR, buy one that is not so far gone. M johnandpeggy's Home Page - Road Runner Personal Home Pages
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Old 22-10-2010, 00:32   #644
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He is asking between 1,000-1,500. This is why I thought it may be worth it. It was said to be a searunner 31. I wonder if it is even 31, because most piver 31's I have looked at online look a little different. But after looking at Pivers it does look more like a Piver than a Searunner.


Thanks for the speedy replies guys. Any other comments welcome.

Dwaine
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Old 22-10-2010, 08:38   #645
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Hey there, those were speedy replies, from a combined experience of 100 years of boat fixing/building, because they were easy for those guys to see......Man if you want to learn to sail, go sailing. Beg rides, join a race boat, help another guy with his Tri for rides. You can learn real fast like this. It will peel away the magazine gloss, and put it in real time and real life, how expensive and time consuming these boats are. Also how wonderful they are!
That thing would leave you broke down and crying after two years. You would probably be in poor health from the mold and led paint.....anyhow, do not stop asking and dreaming. It is how we all got where we are today...hahahahaah.....
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