Drew... Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. You guys that have read my old posts might think: "give it a rest already", and rightfully so. Thing is, during seasons like right now, where we will have > than a 40 degree F. temperature differential in ONE day, (like today), I am made acutely aware of it when I step onto the ama from the dock
, and brace myself with the running backstay. In the afternoon it is "tight", and in the morning it is sloppy loose. I wouldn't want that on MY standing rig, which is sailed as a sloop
so needs the uppers tight and lowers loose, but always properly "in tune" with each other.
There are many other applications that are great for the stuff as I have pointed out, but not the standing rigging
on a Searunner
About weight... When synthetic rigging
proponents tout "1/5th the weight", it is actually not as dramatic as it sounds in the big picture. IF hypothetically, the ss wire was 50#s, and being generous... similar rigging synthetic was <10#s, you have saved 40#s, right? (You definitely still need metal turnbuckles to keep it easily adjustable, btw).
Well, on a fully tricked out ss rigged cruising boat's mast
, with mast head
clutter, lights, RADAR
, roller furling
headstay, etc... you might be looking at a 400# rig or > 500#s with sails
up, which is when it matters! Take away that 40# savings from using synthetic rigging, and that 500#s drops to 460#s. It IS a weight savings, but less dramatic when you look at it this way.
You could save as much or more weight aloft with high tech mylar sails
AND use of high tech synthetics for halyards. (I have 6mm T-900 as a headsail halyard
and as a topping lift
IF one had a racing
boat and LOTS of money
, then doing the above but WITH a carbon fiber mast AND synthetic rigging as well, (THESE two materials ARE compatible), AND if they skip ALL of the mast clutter, it could in fact cut the weight of the entire rig in half or more! It also would not be a cruising boat at all.
Roy... Using small synthetic line as an anchor rode
on your dink sounds like a good if not expensive application for the synthetic. Of course if you can then rationalize getting a 600' spool, or go in with someone to buy a spool, the price
comes WAY down.
I would still use a 20' length of 3/16" chain for cantenary, as I sometimes dive in a 2-3' chop!
On the dink's 25' painter, we like 3/8" StaSet as it ties/cleats and handles well, and we can pull it up the beach, together. IF it is a tide vs wind
anchorage, we hoist the dink along side, but if not, we trail it with a 3' long section of bunji in the painter, to make it where there is no longer a jerk, jerk, jerk, with the rise of every wave.
IF I use 1/4" synthetic on my new lifelines
, I may still use 1/8 but 1X19 uncoated ss wire for the aft connection and gate. This stuff coils up so easily and neatly when we frequently leave the gates open (like at anchor), and would flop around less this way than unsecured synthetic gates would. Of course, you can make an effort to secure them, and as you know... they do now have really nice splice only pelican hooks, just for synthetics.
I have not yet done a "Brummel splice", is it hard to learn?
Roy, you have always found VERY clever solutions to these things... that apply to you, your cruising grounds, boatbuilding skill, finances, age, condition, (single handed status), and size of boat. This is as we ALL should do, and one person's perfect solution may not be perfect for another. I REALLY admire your work!
Those who have read my anchoring
book as you have, know how I agonized for years with the prospect of putting a windlass
on our 34' trimaran
, and then agonized more about how to do it (once it became necessary), without ruining the performance or seakindlyness of our boat. There are so many options...
R2D2 sounds like a trip! You can get foot switches btw, that allow you to flip the safety
cover up for pushing with your toe, or flip them down to make it impossible, (except through the center of the lid, with your finger only). My switches are quite safe in this respect, and are sold by my windlass's catalog, "Quick".
You are right to be concerned about windlass safety
on the bow, especially if you are alone up there. REMEMBER THE LATE/GREAT ALLAN COLLAS! For you younger guys... He was one of the greats back in the day, and stupidly got his foot stuck in a coil of chain as it paid out really fast! They were just able to save his foot, but the pain followed him for years. He was later lost
at sea while single
handing, and it was assumed to be indirectly related to this injury. We all have to be so careful!
We have found that when motorsailing in our common east coast
Sargassum weed, the folding prop would become fouled on a regular basis, (although less prone than other types of props). The boat would just go very incrementally slower. Now, when this happens, we slow down to 1 knt, hit reverse, and then FULL throttle for about 5 seconds. Then with the boat now stopped, we would see a "Rasta wig" of weed go floating past the bow. These momentary stops were a small price
to pay for 2 extra knots of speed. I think that this would apply to your kelp as well, IF it has been a problem.
This "Sunrise" dip is great stuff alright. Below is a NER MegaBraid II, 12 strand rope
to chain splice that I finished yesterday. It got multicoated up top and two coats on the bottom 75% of the splice. The stuff is very thin, so soaks in deep. It does stiffen it up just a bit, but not so it is an issue. It remains flexible for the life of the rope
, adds a safety to the splice, and mainly... it prevents chafe as well as keeps ALL sand out of the chain link and splice interior
I use this stuff every few years on my vent hole mesh nets, forward nets, splices, whippings, and 1/8" polyester lashings. I recommend the practice!
You would have to ask Sunrise if they have this stuff in white as well, but I suspect that they do. Black, of course, is opaque, where white "anything" (paint/primer, rope, canvass, epoxy
, etc), is not. White is translucent, letting maybe 50% of the UVs through. For multicoating, a day apart, you could go on with black, followed by 3 more coats of white. Once you have a black base coat, ALL future coatings could be white. Then you get the black's sun coverage, with a white color on top, if that is what you want, like on splices.
SPLICE COATING ADDITIONAL TOUCHES:
FIRST... Use a winch
or the like to pull your finished splice VERY tight to set the splice, and leave it pulled tight for coating over the required 2 or 3 days. IF you whip the throat of the splice as well like I do, do not use commercial
"waxed" twine. Use un coated 1/16" woven (not twisted), Nylon or Dacron. This way, IT will soak up the vinyl dip too.