I see in looking back on what I've missed that you asked me a question some pages back, which I never responded to. Sorry, read excuse above...
I see that you've made your choice, and in looking at the plans for your new nets, they look beautiful and like a great choice for your expressed needs.
I have described my nets and choices before, but... I also went with "Sunrise" on my wing vents' mesh nets only. They did a beautiful job, and like the bow's open nets, I have gotten 18 years out of them and they still look like new. Richard was VERY pleasantly surprised at their longevity, and here's how...
The trick is to re-coat them every few years, (5 coats), with Sunrise's black liquid vinyl dip. The plastic coating protects the polyester from chafe AND the UV rays as well. Use no other brand of vinyl dip... I have used others, like "whip dip" for rope, that gets VERY brittle on rope splices after 5 years. Sunrise dip remains flexible, INDEFINITELY!
I wanted the 1/2" open mesh nets that are strung REALLY tight for the vent holes, because mine are at the top of the hole, not the bottom as drawn. They are therefore walked on regularly and easily. Here, they are about 60-70% closed to the passage
of waves, but it is not an issue at all. Easy walking and easy comfortable laying on them is. We also dry all manner of dive gear
here as well.
Up at the bow area, here was my reasoning. Many modern Searunners are roller furled, and seldom or never sail with both headsails at the same time. SO... the fordeck work is usually just dropping the hook, or raising a spinnaker
in a sock. In both cases, the likelihood of falling in is FAR less than in the old days, with constant changing of hanked on headsails.
I didn't want to repeat the mistake I made with my last boat, of being far too "busy" and too burdened a boat for its size. It was fine until I found my mate, then I had no payload left!
On Delphys, I started out with NO netting up there between the hulls. Then after a 5 day ROUGH passage
from Glovers Reef, Belize
to the Dry Tortugas
, I changed my mind. My staysail which went up and down on its stay with the weather
, (after striking the roller/lapper), Had been stored by being rolled tightly and tied down on the deck and side wing, (out of view)... In the rough seas, it had gotten loose and was being drug under the wing for hours, before I realized it. Luckily there was no damage.
NOW, I decided I needed nets at least to hold loose sails
out of the water
, and for more drying gear area. Half way forward from the wing to the bow would be plenty... I chose the 3/16" x 2" open sport netting for this, which we made up with homemade borders of polyester rope. With it all lashed up at each square, and tied in really tight, it has served perfectly for this.
I had done the same technique on my previous boat and knew it to be strong enough to walk in, but it will sag 2' if you do. So, it is only OK on Delphys because I don't walk in them, but it is nice to have a safety
should I fall. For restraining sails, they are perfect.
In your case Roy, being that you do want to hang out in the bow nets, and a vent hole in the wing is NA, your choice of 1" webbing nets with 1.5" spaces sounds just right to me. It will pass most of a rare breaking wave, but still allow you to walk in it. The tighter you string it the better for this of course.
Your boat being the 40 vs my 34'er, means that deck sweeping waves would be far more rare for you than on my boat. If you were concerned and going into the low latitudes, it might be too tight a spacing, but why do THAT?
WOW... I didn't get that you were buying
new sails and a NEW MAST! I've written and read so many posts that they all blur now. That's the way to have a great retirement cruise
, with everything so refurbished that all you have to do is bottom jobs and fix what breaks.
Your decades spent in the business of installing all of this stuff will serve you well. It is always fun reading of your progress. Since mine is very slow right now.
Keep up the good work Roy!
In the photos below, the one of a coated and preserved rope/chain splice is from the recent book. This process keeps sand and debris out of the interface. Again, I only use the Sunrise black vinyl dip for this, because it stays flexible.