AMEN TO THAT ROSS, all of it!
Man, you're REALLY rebuilding your back cabin
aren't you! When you get your reefer done, it will be impressive I'm sure. If we were on the same side of the country, when the time comes, I would stop by and see if it keeps your beer at the proper level of chill... all in the name of science of course.
That must be some "hard" stove insulation
, not just spun alumina, for the shipping
to be so high?
A suggestion about your upcoming RADAR
install. Your radome is larger than mine, so this may not apply, but... I like to have the radome positioned just under the baby stay. This is a protected position from sails
by the stay, and having this considerable amount of weight down low, will pay dividends on the motion of the boat. (Even on the 40) At this lower height than some would prefer, there is actually no loss of range when tracking storms due to the storms height, and in my view, the difference between 15 miles vs 25 miles in tracking ships, is academic... At least compared to putting that much weight near the top of the mast, it seems like a good trade
off to me. Just a thought...
We all will be interested in the results of your light weight CB mod. This will I suppose, knock 150 or 200 lbs off of the boat? More payload for fun stuff, right? I'm not so brave, but may rebuild
our sterncastle dinette table out of foam, to trim a bit or weight off. I am finding lately, that the least labor intensive route
, is reducing the volume or seize/weight of "stuff" onboard. I just swapped out my 80 cu/ft SCUBA
tank for a 63, for example, and Mariam now has a Kindle for reading. Books
add up to a LOT of weight! The 40'er of coarse, has so much more payload, that you don't need to be so vigilant.
In your case, Roy, I know you needed to rebuild
the CB anyway... I suppose you will have to power plane that hump deeper than necessary, to leave room for building the glass back up? Keep us posted.
When it comes to summer monsoons... I feel your pain man! We're in the same boat/puddle here...
I am tentatively finishing up painting my decks (with topcoat only), having done the cabin
top last year. The AwlGrip nonskid here, like the rest, is not quite 10 years old. I expect several more years of service
everywhere else, but my nonskid needed a spiff up. I had done it SO nonskid back then, like a solid sheet of 80 grit sandpaper, (for our 2 year Eastern Caribbean
cruise), that I can't easily keep it clean any more. Our slip is almost in fresh water
in winter, and we get green mildew growing in the grit on the north side. We never had this problem when the boat was salty.
Anyway, 3 thin rolled on topcoats (sans grit) over the nonskid, will make it 30% less nonskid, especially barefoot, BUT, we will be able to clean her up without a power washer! We will just have to wear boat sandals and be more careful when the decks are wet.
Point I was getting to: We broke the decks up into 4 segments, starting with the 4 corners. For EACH of these segments, I need 3 CONSECUTIVE days with NO RAIN. If I skip a day, I loose the chemical bond window! BIG bummer... Yesterday's paint
, coat #1, did get rained on, but 4 hours later. I had used accelerator in the mix, so it was OK, but just barely! Today's coat went fine too, and hopefully tomorrow's will as well.
Then we just need 3 more sessions of 3 consecutive "guaranteed rain free days", in the next two months, before it gets cold.
With our "new" Summer norm being rain daily or every other day, that is a VERY tall order! At least when it comes to doing the hatches, I can remove them if necessary.
This and the UV issue, is why I encourage those with really big outside projects, to put her under a structure, temporary or otherwise...
Roy... You definitely want to draw the dodger to scale to get it all sussed out in your mind, before switching to doorskin and duct tape full size models. In my case I had been a draftsman, so had the table, tools, etc. As evening entertainment, I'd draw it one way, and then the other, each time with scale sized stick figures, to get the ergos right.
I tried various hard tops as well, but just couldn't shake remembering that I keep having to ride out hurricanes! (>12) I like Ross's combination hard top set up, however. Perhaps he could post more close up photos?
The SR 31 lends itself to a LIGHT Strataglass curtained front, hardtop, due to NOT having the mast in the cockpit
. Not so with ours boats... Between the bimini
& dodger, I decided that I needed one "hard" version or the other, but not to burden the boat with the weight of both, AND there was the hurricane
What I settled on was to appease the artiest in me, and to hell with the hours of labor involved, (>1,000). I wanted it to accentuate the lines of the boat and not ruin them.
Being a composite structure, the empty frame was < 35 lbs, but that almost doubled with the installation
of the 1/4" lexan
. I might use 3/16 Lexan
next time to save weight, and when not under way, cover the lenses with double layered OPAQUE Sunbrella from the get go... (which we NOW use). This way it will remain clear for decades!
REGARDING THE WEIGHT... It is replacing the windshield drawn, so I figured I was just 40 lbs over design weight for including this addition, that TWO crew can stand on. With the light weight bimini
attached to the hard dodger with either the Sunbrella connecting piece, OR the "openable smile" clear front curtains, it becomes a full cockpit
windshield. I did have to design the entire set up and enclosure sections FIRST, and then draw sheet winches aft and mast winches up high, in locations that would accommodate the enclosure, not the other way around. Tricky stuff!
In your case, Roy, the opposite is true, so you have more of a challenge! As much as I LOVE the aesthetics of our dodger, I would not advocate folks spending 1,000 hours+ on theirs. In our case, it sat in the corner for years as a filler project
, to fill down time. It was entertainment! In hindsight, however, it IS my nicest piece...
A much faster shape to build would be a bit of a power boat
look. Maybe an aft sloping 3 faceted but flat windshield with at least the middle facet including a down swinging openable hatch
, like a Lewmar
"Ocean Series" (custom glazed with safety
glass). Weight is less of an issue on the 40... I know folks who did this glass glazing in a hatch
, and it is no big deal. Next... mount a rounded corner, curved, foam core
top, that extends beyond the windshield's front facets & its sides, about 5 or 6" more than the inward sloping sides.
This makes vacuum bagging the front unnecessary, and the time consuming top to side radii as well. I think it would look OK, and the opening front hatch would reduce the need for top hatches, like our's has. A top curtain "attachment strip" and aft edge drip dam, as well as a drip dam on the underside aft edge, would finish her up, ready for curtains to the bimini!
With your propensity for excellence, I'm sure it will be a trip!
I'm looking for MY lottery ticket too!
Just for inspiration! Again, please excuse the repetition...