Howaya, you actually have done a "No Thru hull" design. That's fantastic! I do like the retractible engine
design, and special inspection ports
and remove the engines are right on target. My only thought would be if designing it from scratch, make the below waterline conduit integrated into the hull
with the penetration into the hull far above the waterline. I've got to admit my thoughts are not based on "I think a commercial
vedor should do X,Y, and Z" because some of my thoughts (like below) would probably lie outside the realm of what most people would want. I like retractable outboards frankly as long as they are kept forward enough. No matter what remote
island you're on, there are always local fisherman who use outboards and have parts
. I also like the retractible electric motors as electric motors are sealed, have very few moving parts, and typically they can run 20,000 to 50,000 hours between failure.
Regarding the water
tight compartments, too few catamarans really have this designed in. African cats
has a great design for that. I must admit my approach would take that even further, lifting the entry way for the interior cabins to have those serve as above water level bulkheads with all wiring
, etc well above the waterline so no penetrating limberholes between the cabins. I frankly doubt any commercial vender would ever want to do that as it might be quite a lip for people to walk over. I'm guessing it would be around 18" or so above the hallway flooring
in the cabins. I think for the watertight crash compartments I'm building into my forward bows as the flooring
for the forelockers lockers the best solution I've heard for filling them is instead of foam which MAY get waterlogged, or keeping them open as PDQ
does but would allow a lot of water to ingress into them in a breach and pull the boat down more than foam, is simply filling that area with empty 2 liter bottles. Their big enough that they can fill the space and do most of the work of foam, but if you need to access that area you can still easily remove the bottles through and inspection
I think for the interchangeable lights, it would be an expensive solution if you were to make a one off perhaps. But really your talking about a more sophisticated version of the cheap solar
powered garden lights with interchangeable color filters, perhaps a bit bigger solar on the top with more powerful LED light and then somesort of RF switch. I'm guessing you could make one for around $40 or so. Tacktick actually has a FAR more sophisticated solution as they need to have RF transmission
and reciept of data.
One would also think that there would be some sort of coating one could put on the outside of fiberglass
that would be resistant to burning and while it might allow the tranmission of heat, wouldn't allow the actual fiberglass
itself to be exposed to oxygen and therefore it might char and degrade at the heat source, the fiberglass wouldn't become fuel
for an ongoing fire. I guess this is an opportunity for people to inform my optimism with hard earned knowledge. Valiant once tried putting fireproofing in the fiberglass itself. It was a collosal failure as the material created blisters
after only a year.
Originally Posted by Howaya
I've also long believed it is possible and desireable to have no thru-hulls. I actually came up with a solution that, so far, works fairly well. The previous owner installed just one bronze thru-hull, for the head
, but I've plugged that and opted for a porta-potty. Aren't those (expensive) composting heads self-contained and a fair alternative?
My hi-thrust outboard
does kick up free and clear from the water, and so there is almost no metal below the waterline. For bigger installations aren't those Sillette legs still available?
As for sea water intake to the galley
, I've plumbed a retractable hose with a strainer on the end. In an effort to keep things simple, it is powered by a foot pump; but those who like to just turn a knob could use an electric pump
It sounds like Gideon has addressed these issues pretty well.