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Old 13-08-2008, 09:29   #16
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The strength of a window glass is it's thickness and it's maximum unsupported width.
A vertical window is often quite short so not bad, but it does take everything head on. That includes air flow which must add to poor sailing qualities BUT smaller a/c units. The eye-brow style looks a particularly bad idea for air and wave to hit. Huge pressures result from stopping water. But a sloping window has it's limits too, it's longer, it is still subject to green water falling onto it, and it lets in a lot of tropical sun heat. More frequent vertical rails in the windows reduces panel size to increase strength.
I like the car windscreen idea of bonded in glass panels sitting flush with the supporting structure.
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Old 13-08-2008, 14:03   #17
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Well designed "eyebrows" keep the sun out, and need to be able to be ripped off by a wave without causing any damage to the main structure.
On the boat I'm designing, I'm putting a complete "extra roof" on and eyebrows. The gap between the main structure and the roof will keep the saloon cooler, as well as keep the underside of the solar panels cooler.

Adds a bit of weight but alot of comfort and better efficiency for the solar panels. Also neat to run cables form the panels in.

A gap between the extra roof and "eyebrows" will be a recessed handrail.

Regards

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Old 14-08-2008, 07:03   #18
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I like the ideas, Nordic. My objection is to the roof line extensions over vertical glazing.
There are many sports cars with louvred rear windows to reduce heat and allow view.
A clip on ( disposable / removable ) louvre would certainly help warding off the sunshine.
The false roof is sound. Even walk-on strength with reasonable fixings should survive green water. Take care to prevent waves getting between the boat roof and the secound skin, but you should get significant benefits. I'm planning a canvas false rrof for hotter climates, spacers to maintain the gap, nothing hard to smash into the mast/ crew if it does get washed away.
On Solar Panels do you put one either side to avoid this shadowing problem with independant electrickery. So the one working best can work without driving the shaded one?
Just how much sun do you get in Denmark? Can we have some left overs for the UK PLEASE?
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Old 14-08-2008, 08:16   #19
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Just a thought . . . on the sun louvers, why not hook a "tether" on to it, so when it gets removed by a wave, that you can later "find it" . . .

Shawn
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Old 01-12-2008, 19:04   #20
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Leopard 46 Windows

As an FYI, we handled the repair to the Leopard 46 cat that was damaged in the Abaco's.
She suffered a broken window and stepd etc etc, but no structural damage to bulkheads or any other boat destroying damage.
She handled extremely well considering the onslaught she faced at the 'Rage'
Kent - Just Catamarans, Inc
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Old 02-12-2008, 16:00   #21
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But I have heard of cats lost after losing a bow hatch

One that comes to mine is "Lady of the Fleet" in the Gulf Stream in only moderately bad conditions.

It seems a board for a forehatch and some screws makes more sense. Perhaps toggles. Thoughts. This has always been a concern of mine when the bows start to swim.
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Old 02-12-2008, 16:50   #22
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My fountain pajot is the PRE eyebrow-vertical window design. It does allow sun in but its got 'smooth' surfaces which are awesome in a windy anchorage. Recently I was holding fine in a 45 knot papagayos. We have 2 rectangular canvasses which are quick to string up over the windows, acting like removable eyebrows. I am yet to take a green one over the front, but I am glad we dont have vertical windows...On a previous boat i worked on we had storm shutters made up for all windows/portholes which were stainless plates bolted into threaded holes, specially made. But this was for a north sea cruise during winter. I would not bother if you are doing a tradewind cruise near the equator. But if you are gapping it through hurricane areas or near or below the 40's...but those are not really cat zones.
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Old 26-08-2010, 02:32   #23
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I've just had an incident near Selsey Bill which included a tow off a lee shore in 30+ winds and breaking waves of two meters. I'd anchored so was on the fore deck to attach the tow, and stayed there as the tow began, ready to drop anchor again should the line break. It did, no problems. Re-attached quickly and anchor recovered again.
But there were waves, mainly tops, repeatedly breaking over the bows, I was glad I'd reversed the hatch over the anchor locker to hinges at the fore end, and could now tie the rope locker hatch, backward opening, to the anchor locker hatch, forward opening, preventing either being flipped wide open. They had both been forward opening!
I also needed to hang on securely, I have good railings, and netting, I felt and was secure laid along the deck, head into the wind/waves, just very wet but at least available. Transition back to the cockpit could also be accomplished without having to stand. It didn't worry me or the crewman on at the helm. There was no chance of me going overboard. That's important when the crew doesn't have much experience.
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