Ok, things to shoot for:
1) inspection ports
on all tanks
, adequate to reach inside all parts
of the tank to clean, especially important for water tanks
. Standard is one inspection
port which which only shows you one baffled area of the tank.
2) put 4 nylon messengers in each conduit for running additional wiring
3) all wiring
should be labelled on each end and should be fully "marine grade", it should say marine
grade on the jacketing of the wiring, not just tinned wiring.
4) Crash compartment in forward bow locker as floor with inspection port.
5) false foam filled bow for collisions.
for sea anchor
7) LED lighting
through out, go ahead and look at Imtra online and see what YOU like, and specify that.
8) regardless of wood, make sure they put lots of extra varnish
. Veneers are very difficult to repair.
9) Water tight hatch
doors going forward to the bow from the inside and aft to the transom.
inside the bow lockers and the midships chain lockers for hanging rope
and line and for attaching netting in the event of a capsize
(the bow locker would then be you emergency
11) LED lights
in all cabinets and outside lockers and engine
compartments. They should come on automatically when you open the door.
12) In the hulls there should be a light duty bilgepump which can take care of condensation
at the lowest portion of the bilge
and mounted two inches above that should be an extra heavy duty bilge pump
(should be able to compensate for expected water intake of any through hull) which is wired to a bilge alarm
13) If the engines are going to be under births or they are aft of the births in a seperate area it would be ideal if they were completely enclosed in a water tight compartment going from the point of entry of the shaft through the engine
. In that manner should the shaft become misaligned and water start pouring through or the saildrive
seal fail the water intrusion will be limited. If under the aft births it could be that the births simply have the walls extend up above the waterline if practicable.
14) Go to someplace like scandvik and pick the type of faucets that you like, you might as well choose yourself as it will make a big difference in how you feel about the quality of the interior
15) Look at the flooring
, it should be beautiful and impossible to ruin while taking no mold
. There are some synthetics out there that qualify.
16) full rub rails extending from the bows across the sides to the transom and then on the swim platform. If something can hit it there, protect it.
17) Look at things like the dyneema rigging
and life lines, and have the rigging
covered to protect against chafe.
18) I would look at 10mm lexan
windows. Much lighter and they are the most puncture resistant things you can get. The security
can be very reassuring in some sketchy anchorages
. Tempered glass will shatter should a sharp object hit it in a storm.
19) Each of your 30 amp circuits should have a galvanic isolator
20) LED lighting on your targa, and transom steps for boarding your dingy.
21) You should have some system by which the dingy can be hauled by one person, cleanly, without hitting the swim platform or any part of the transom.
22) I would put two spot lights on the boat and a FLIR for nighttime operations.
23) I would make sure that all navigation
instruments are located at the helm
, rather than the inside, you need to see your radar
24) I would think about a nice office space somewhere on the boat.
25) Specify double bow anchor rollers.
26) Park avenue boom instead of a stackpack
and get the best sails
you can, gatorback spectra sails
from North Sails would be a good choice.
28) Get the best heads possible.
29) cockpit floor level LED lighting.
30) LED curtesy lights on all interior steps and at least one along the floor of each interior section (cabin, hall, etc). Make it easy and have one switch that will turn them on or off, but have them light activated beyond that. It gets dark, they turn on. Very easy to do.
31) You pick the sound system, speakers, etc or have someone knowledgeable do that, have them pick the speaker location, but specify that speakers should be in each cabin
the cockpit and settee area with wall mounted remote
controls with full surround sound in the sette area.
32) Get the new ultra thin LCD TVs drop down in the cabins and a larger one for the settee area.
33) Have the bottom of the bridgedeck fitted with non skid, preinstalled jacklines
, and painted orange. Have a compartment accessible from bottom of the boat such as a cockpit locker with a bottom watertight access hatch
from which you can take a ditch bag.
34) Solar panels
, get the Sunpower, they are the most efficient, and get approximately 800 watts of them. That should be enough to manage all of your onboard electronics
, lighting, etc without having to run a generator
. You should specify an MPPT
controller with a remote monitor
will show you the output, the input, and all sorts of neat stats). By the way, this system will save you a world of nightmares as once solar
is setup, it's the one thing on the boat that doesn't break.
35) Full wrap around enclosure in the cockpit with removable eisenglass and screens.
36) textalene sunblock screens for all windows and hatches. These will help you maintain privacy and block out sunlight.
37) why not have a drop down electric screen
in front of the glass cockpit doors and a home theator projector with a hideaway compartment behind the settee area. It's really not that big of a cost (probably about 3 grand in total) and you have a complete home theator which is bigger than any big screen TV and weighs just a few pounds and retracts away when your not using it. If you want to have a movie
night for the anchorage or more people you can invite everyone over, you can bring everything outside use it on your deck
38) 12v plugs in each room, hallway, with two in the nav station and two in the helm
area. Your going to find things over the years you really like that will be 12volt run and want an easy way to hook it up.
39) cable TV hookup on the outside. You'll want it for cable and cable modem
dockside. It's indespensible for us!
40) You'll want at least one electric winch
from which you can raise the halyards. I know a lot of people who gave up sailing because of arthritis and things and this will extend the sailing years.
41) Have them put in 12v rechargeable maglights in some location you find easy to access but out of the way. They have a integrated holder and that way you've always got the flashlight ready. I've had mine for 7 years, absolutely perfect. In fact, get two.
42) the walls above and around the stove and oven
should be stainless for easy cleaning
43) drying racks incorporated into the dish shelves, you simply put the dishes away and they drip dry through a drain in the shelf.
44) all sinks should be stainless, bathroom, galley
, everywhere. The white gelcoated ones become very easily scratched and discolored.
45) master 12volt cutoff switch for everything.
46) all through holes should have appropriately sized teak
plugs tied off to the inlet.
47) smoke detectors throughout and carbon monoxide detectors.
48) if you going to spending winters in places which will be dropping below 40 degrees fahrenheit, install a webasto heater in each hull
, connected to the venting for your air conditioning
49) If you are going to be spending winters in places where temperatures fall below 50 degrees, you should have 4" insulation
underneath your births with dry deck panels
over top of the insulation
50) vent plates at the bottom of each locker and cabinet.
51) you should have them hook up a vent tube going from the fan on your refrigerator
decompressor to a round vent on the outside of the cabinet along with vents to allow return of fresh air. By having the vent house on the compressor
to the vent hole, all of the heat generated by that compressor
is immediate taken away from your refrigerator
and you will run far more efficiently.
52) specify a minimum of 3" of insulation on the refrigerator and 4" on the freezer
if they are custom making the cabinets. You'll probably find Frigoboat makes one of the best off the shelf products (all stainless inside and outside, good insulation, very efficient).
53) specify the dyneema
54) oversized anchor, rocna
seems the best choice.
55) I would personally look at the foward looking sonar for collision
56) I would also put cameras in the engine compartments to help verify smoke, water, etc (these can be viewed on most sophisticated chart plotters) and at the top of the mast
looking down for remote security
57) water alarms should be in all water tight compartments.
58) fire alarms and automatic extinguishers should be in each engine compartment.
59) have them install a pressure regulated inlet for your ships water so you can take shore water at your slip directly into your boat. That way you can take long showers in a marina without having to leave you boat or having to refill your water tanks. It's a very easy modification. You might also have them check on an emergency cutoff switch tied to the bilge alarms and water alarms.
60) there are boat security systems that hook up to your bilge alarms, smoke alarms, and motion detectors which can send you an alert via cell phone
should something happen while you're away. It makes sense to integrate the whole thing now rather than wait.
61) they probably already do it, but look into kevlar reinforcing critical areas, such as the bow, hulls below the waterline, etc for protection from breaches.
62) The companion way doors in the settee area should have a very secure lock on the inside to prevent instrusion while you are asleep. It might make sense to also put locks on the forward cabin doors so that area can be a "safe area" as well. Those should be margard lexan as well.
63) put in drink holders and binocular holders in convenient location on the helm. I have no idea why no one thinks of that.
64) put in an ammeter on your 12 volt side, you should be able to see what you are drawing directly. Typical gauges such as heart only show the net draw so it's difficult to see if you have something on electrically when you are charging
65) make sure that put a cutoff switch on your solar panels
, you shorepower battery
charger/inverter, etc. If you are doing electric work, you want to make sure that everything is OFF.
66) put hella fans in each room and a couple in the settee area. whisper quiet, draw very little, and will be very welcome on hot anchorages
67) look at the way your boat would sit inverted, your first aid kit should be water tight and located where it would be easily accessible right side up or upside down and still above the waterline level should you get a mid hull breach. Probably mounted forward halfway up a bulkhead.
68) get the best engine monitoring system you can. You should have graphs with historical information on engine temperature, exhaust
temperature, intake flow, etc.
69) hook up a remote engine start for the engine rooms, in that way you can start the engines yourself without having to have someone at the cockpit when you are fixing something or trying to diagnose something.
70) sign up for the mack boring yanmar
3 day class for owners and tell them your engine model and make. You'll be very glad you did!
Good luck and enjoy!