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Old 07-10-2008, 12:53   #46
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I read more on the Planet Christmas site about the flaming LEDs and here was one quote

"by the way, the scorch mrks I notice in mine is between the lensand the led just around where it joins the moulded socket.It actually is black,I broke one open to see what was realy happening and it did smell like smoke and it looks like it had been arcing."

Maybe the shorts started at the LEDs??
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Old 08-10-2008, 13:31   #47
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USUALLY, when a diode fails it blows like a fuse. Of course knowing the Chinese, someone is molding the LEDs into nitrocellulose capsules (made from ground up recycled pingpong balls) instead of the usual ones, and turning them into little incendiary bombs. Purely accidentally.
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Old 10-10-2008, 04:00   #48
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My LED's in my truck burn about 20 hrs per day, at about 330 days per year and have not had one catch fire and burn out in 7 years. Maybe I'm just lucky, but then again, a couple hundred thousand rigs use them and if it's wired and installed by the manyfacturer, they carry a 100,000 hours warranrty on them, if an LED is going to quit it usually happens if the first 10 hours of use, give or take.
We've only had 2 out of 195 go out in that time...

It sounds like you need a better voltage regulater on your boat if you are spiking 30 volts
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Old 10-10-2008, 05:07   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
USUALLY, when a diode fails it blows like a fuse...
See also the excellent white paper:

LED Failure Modes and Mechanisms ~ by Loelle Arnold

This article summarizes the function and construction of ordinary LEDs, indicates some common failure mechanisms, and introduces the basic fixes appropriate to each type of failure.

Goto:
http://www.dfrsolutions.com/pdfs/LED_Failures.pdf
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Old 10-10-2008, 13:54   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay View Post
See also the excellent white paper:

LED Failure Modes and Mechanisms ~ by Loelle Arnold

This article summarizes the function and construction of ordinary LEDs, indicates some common failure mechanisms, and introduces the basic fixes appropriate to each type of failure.

Goto:
http://www.dfrsolutions.com/pdfs/LED_Failures.pdf
Their bottom line is:

In Conclusion…
LEDs are simple and ubiquitous components in electronic assemblies. Failures can usually be corrected with subtle
modifications to the design. In some cases, the addition of a shielding component may be necessary; in others, selection of
a different LED may solve the problem.

So for me it would be ya gets what ya pay for and/or buyer beware.
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:19   #51
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We have had developed a new High powered Led Downlighter
the unit is made with 3 high powered warm white LEDs and one low powered central red Led for night lighting . this downlighter is multi voltage 11.5 up to 30 volts , dimmable
it has a diameter of 50 mm and needs 18 mm dept , the unit is waterproof so it can be used outside but not made for underwater use.
All components are of the best possible quality and unfortunately the price is accordingly
The output is comparable with a 15 watt halogen bulb but consumption is only 3 watt.

we use then in the saloon and under the bimini

Greetings

Gideon
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Old 12-10-2008, 08:04   #52
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Gideon

This thread is about where to source LED downlights, so either tell us you are selling these lights, or where we can get them please.

You claim that they are waterproof, yet not to be used underwater, this is typical sales jargon. Can you please be more specific?

Greetings

Alan
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Old 12-10-2008, 09:17   #53
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Hallo Alan

we will sell them once all the tests are completed and we will keep stock in the Netherlands and South Africa

The following tests will be done next week

Immersion for 30 minutes
Noise and radio interference
Endurance testing ( 48 hours non stop )
Heat output
If they are dimmable with different types of dimming systems for instance Buss system, rheostat etc.
warmth of white light.
regarding the remark of being waterproof , the IP rating is
IP69K
Dust proof, protected from water during high pressure/steam cleaning (not submersible)
With my remark I just want to make sure that somebody will actually mount them underwater since they are not made for that.
We use a different type of lighting for underwater lights.
When do you expect to start building your new Bi Rig ?

Greetings

Gideon
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Old 12-10-2008, 19:17   #54
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Whoa

Deja Vu!!!
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Old 13-10-2008, 03:03   #55
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The IP69K test specification was initially developed for enclosures designed to protect against ingress of dust and harmful effects of high-pressure jet steam cleaning, in road vehicles.

German standard DIN 40050-9 extends the IEC 60529 rating system described above with an IP69K rating for high-pressure, high-temperature wash-down applications.

The IP69K to DIN40 050-9/5.93 lists the protection category test consisting of the following parameters:
- Water pressure up to 100 bar; 14-16 litres per minute flow rate;
- Temperature up to 80̊C; distance min 100 to max 150mm.
- Duration of the test calls for 4 directions and test jet time of 30 sec each
- At the angles of 0̊, 30̊, 60̊ and finally 90̊.
- To achieve the 4 directional test, the test object is placed on a rotating turntable.
http://www.sensor.co.kr/pds/IP69K%20...0%5Bpdf%5D.pdf
Protection test IP69K

North American NEMA Enclosure Types:
NEMA 250, Enclosures for Electrical Equipment (1000 Volts Maximum http://www.nema.org/prod/be/enclosur...sure_Types.pdf

A few applicable NEMA code designations for electrical enclosures:

NEMA TYPE 3R
Rainproof and Sleet- (Ice-) Resistant-Outdoor - Type 3R enclosures are intended for use outdoors to protect the enclosed equipment against rain and meet the requirements of Underwriters' Laboratories, Inc., Publication No. UL 508, applying to "Rainproof Enclosures." They are not dust-, snow-, nor sleet (ice-) proof. They shall have conduit hub or equivalent provision for watertight connection at the conduit entrance when the conduit enters at a level higher than the lowest live part, provision for locking, and provision for drainage. When completely and properly installed, these enclosures shall prevent the entrance of rain at a level higher than the lowest live part.

NEMA TYPE 4
Watertight and Dusttight-Indoor and Outdoor - Type 4 enclosures are intended for use indoors or outdoors to protect the enclosed equipment against splashing water, seepage of water, failing or hose directed water, and severe external condensation. They are sleet-resistant but not sleet- (ice-) proof. They shall have conduit hubs or equivalent provision for watertight connection at the conduit entrance and mounting means external to the equipment cavity.

NEMA TYPE 6
Submersible,
Watertight, Dusttight and Sleet-( Ice-) Resistant-Indoor and Outdoor - Type 6 enclosures are intended for use indoors or outdoors where occasional submersion is encountered. They shall protect the enclosed equipment against a static head of water of 6 feet for 30 minutes, dust, splashing or external condensation of non corrosive liquids, falling or hose-directed water, lint and seepage. They are not sleet- (ice-) proof. They shall have conduit hubs or equivalent provision for watertight-connection at the conduit entrance and mounting means external to the equipment cavity.
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Old 13-10-2008, 03:19   #56
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Thanks for the Info Gord
If the test hold up we have a very good and suitable light for all yachts.

Greetings and happy sailing

Gideon
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Old 15-10-2008, 16:02   #57
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How does 100 Lumens/Watt sound to you folks? Constant-current, in a standard G4 format, and available in a 100 Lumen Warm White. Patented, and made in the good ol' USA. Available in about 3 weeks. Fits EVERY existing halogen downlight with side mount G4.

Also just down the road is a 600-800 Lumen spreader light that fits the ubiquitous standard SS spreaderlight housing. IP68 water-resistant, and about 8W. We were lighting up the side of the Harborside Marriot at the Annapolis show from our booth 100 feet away. Absolutely wicked! Designed by the folks that make LED concert stage lighting.

Of course 120 Lumen Warm White in 2.7 watts available now. 4W and 6W 65mm recessed Downlight available now (200/250 Lumens). 8VDC-30VDC.

Cheers,

Jeff
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Old 17-10-2008, 04:13   #58
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Don Cabatoff has an excellent article on LED Lighting, beginning on page 58 of the Sept/Oct 2009 issue (Vol 14, No 5) of "Electrical Line" magazine:

Goto:
Electrical Line Magazine

Specifically:
AM - Electrical Line - ELM - Olive ActiveMagazine

Then click on LED Lighting 58

The article helps explain why Lumens/Watt is an incomplete and slightly misleading measure of lighting efficacy, for general lighting.
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