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Old 05-02-2011, 16:08   #91
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... The difference being what you are consuming at the moment. ...
On my Link 10 the difference would be what you are consuming less the charge inefficiency. So if there is no consumption going on, the solar might show 10amps and the Link 9amps, due to the loss going back into the battery.
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Old 05-02-2011, 16:23   #92
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Exactly! And likewise, if your panels are producing 10A, while the boat is using about 5A, your link 10 might read 5A. Or what ever is the actual net charge going into the batteries. These are amazing little buggers! M.
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Old 05-02-2011, 16:46   #93
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I also have the Link 2000 but solar is still on my wish list. You will notice that the negative Ah will always become more negative as the charge and discharge cycles happen because of the effieciency is less than 100%. So one has to reset the Ah when the number becomes meaningless. I am still using a generator and shore power for recharging. As the solar panel price continues to go down they are gaining priority level on my wish list.
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Old 05-02-2011, 16:51   #94
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Actually the Link resets automatically when the battery is fully charged.
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Old 05-02-2011, 19:02   #95
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I'll say. I'd be vibrating at about 930 Hz, a tinny B flat.

John
Does that mean you will be able to repel all marine growth on your hull??
A new form of antifouling perhaps???

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Old 05-02-2011, 22:30   #96
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seaking...those aurinco panels look super duper. they are new technology and i have no experience with them. i have, in the past used the cannon flexible/walk on panels and found them to be rather low in output compared to "normal" panels...especially when actually using them as a walk on panel. they used to scuff up a little which reduced there output even more over a few years..... the cannon ones had a lifespan of about 7 to 10 years which was a little dissapointing.... but the aurinco panels are only slightly flexible and possibly much more high tech......still would`nt walk on them though. anyone out there used them?
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Old 05-02-2011, 22:42   #97
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Does that mean you will be able to repel all marine growth on your hull??
A new form of antifouling perhaps???

very good uncle bob... but on 10 cups i`m only B flat........... but.....i`ve read somewhere in the ultra sonic garb......if i can get it vibrating at F sharp (167.3 esspressos a day) then i might just be able to get off the weed!!!!........
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Old 05-02-2011, 22:55   #98
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Does that mean you will be able to repel all marine growth on your hull??
A new form of antifouling perhaps???
I suspect I would repell ALL living creatures in that state!

John
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Old 05-02-2011, 23:14   #99
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My solar regulator shows volts and amps, not amphours. That is a job for my battery monitor ( a Link 2000). It displays the amphours used since the battery was last charged usually late afternoon when my solar panels quit for the day. In the morning it displays how many amphours I have used overnight a negative number.
Traditionally people have fitted a solar regulator and battery monitor.
As the solar regulators have become more sophisticated many will now display all the information making the battery monitor, if you have one, redundant.
If you plan on fitting solar in the future its cheaper to save the cost of a battery monitor and put it towards a good solar regulator.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:48   #100
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Noelex: That would be correct if the only method of charging is by solar. My Blue Sky solar controller shows only what is being produced by the panels, both volts and amps. It does not show consumption from the battery in the formof amps being used or the state of the battery, amp hours that have been used (the gas tank ).

Besides showing what is going into the battery by solar it also shows what goes in from the house alternator and on the rareoccasion that I use it, the battery charger.

Besides this, it also controls the battery charger and monitors the three stages of output. Lastly it also controls the invertor as well as monitors its usage.
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:57   #101
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One needs both a solar charge controller AND a battery monitor. The batteries will self discharge and without the Link 10, (or similar) counting the amps in and amps out of the batteries, you never really know where your battery's charge is. M.
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:17   #102
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Noelex: That would be correct if the only method of charging is by solar..
Not true. My regulator will show AHr in form all sources and Ahrs out (It also remembers the results for the last 30 days)

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It does not show consumption from the battery in the formof amps being used or the state of the battery, amp hours that have been used (the gas tank ).

.
My solar regulator does

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Besides showing what is going into the battery by solar it also shows what goes in from the house alternator and on the rareoccasion that I use it, the battery charger.

.
Yes all displayed by my regulator

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.

Besides this, it also controls the battery charger and monitors the three stages of output. Lastly it also controls the invertor as well as monitors its usage.
Yes my regulator will do all of that.

It depends on the regulator (some are very simple) and how its wired, but mine certainly displays all the information a battery monitor does making the later superfluous.
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Old 06-02-2011, 12:38   #103
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One needs both a solar charge controller AND a battery monitor. The batteries will self discharge and without the Link 10, (or similar) counting the amps in and amps out of the batteries, you never really know where your battery's charge is. M.
You need to count the AHr in and out, but as I point out above at least some solar regulators will do that. This means the battery monitor provides no extra information.
Battery monitors (or solar regulators) cannot count the batteries self discharge. Self discharge is a process that’s internal to the battery and occurs without a circuit
Some can be set up to count slightly more discharge than is really present. This is how I have set up my solar regulator. It counts a permanent -0.1A discharge. Unfortunately I don’t believe this is possible with the Link battery monitor, so I think you will find your battery monitor does not allow anything for self discharge (although I haven’t set one up for a few years, so I could be wrong)
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Old 06-02-2011, 13:50   #104
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seaking...those aurinco panels look super duper. they are new technology and i have no experience with them. i have, in the past used the cannon flexible/walk on panels and found them to be rather low in output compared to "normal" panels...especially when actually using them as a walk on panel. they used to scuff up a little which reduced there output even more over a few years..... the cannon ones had a lifespan of about 7 to 10 years which was a little dissapointing.... but the aurinco panels are only slightly flexible and possibly much more high tech......still would`nt walk on them though. anyone out there used them?

No intention of them being walked on, like the smooth flush to the deck look. Noting to snag anything on, especially a toe.
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Old 06-02-2011, 14:58   #105
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Nolex,

Valid point about actually measuring the "self discharge" portion of the amps out. I may have spoken incorrectly about that. (Perhaps however it would calculate it?) I have no idea.

Since I keep my batteries under float @ 100% charged when dockside, and for the many years that we spent anchored out, brought them from about 40 or 50 ah down, up to 100% charged, with a three stage process, daily, it was a moot point for us.

Our separate solar regulator has adjustments as well, for each stage of the regulator, to be set exactly where the Trojan Batteries rep. suggested we set them.

The Link 10 works on the basis of Pukets Exponent or some such mumbo jumbo. It is basically a computer. It gets its information from a shunt in the negative wire, has numerous other small wires, and even the order of connecting or disconnecting the fused wires is critical, to avoid a meltdown.

When we down sized from a 380 ah to a 340 ah, house battery, using an equation in "the book", we had to reconfigure the link 10 so it gets to "know" the battery. In addition it counts the amps in or out of the battery. As I said before if 10a are going in, while simultaneously 5a are going out, it will see + 5a going in, more or less. When discharging... It will also tell you how many hours it will continue to deliver X amount of amps, (if X never changed), which is unlikely.

About "self discharge", this never comes into play for us, as the amount in a 24 hour period, which is the longest we go between charges, is not worth mentioning. I think what keeps it from getting a running error over time, is that each time we complete a three stage top off, = "daily", then the sun goes down and we start discharging, the link 10 re-zeros itself and starts over. (If the batteries were totally full by noon, by the end of the day the ah function readout might erroneously say + 5ah). This of coarse can't be, as a full battery should read "0" ah. As soon as any power at all is used, the meeter goes back to "0" ah. (then -.1ah, -.2ah, etc.) In our application it is pretty damn smart!

The book is quite technical, and "reconfiguring" takes patience, and two people. One reads, while the other pushes buttons multiple times, and in perfect timing. The book also book includes a technical help phone number, with the admonition that IF you call for technical help, and they can show that the answer was already in the book, they will charge you $100.00! NO SH-T! It REALLY makes you go over the book.

I believe you... If you have some of multi purpose regulator that does everything. I just never heard of it... They come up with higher tech. electronics every day. The Link 10 was the tops in its day, and works great. Ours is 15 years old.

We all have our philosophies about electronics. Mine, is to avoid, as much as possible, interfacing instruments, or multi purpose electronics.

My st 50 wind, speed, & depth meters on a daisy chain, are not worrisome, because if one goes down, the others do not. (unless it was the power wire), and I can bypass that.

I have my GPS feeding info to the computer for the Capt Program too. Also, the SSB interfaces with the computer for "weather FAX". Other than that, My Link 10 stands alone, I have the radar stand alone, the autopilot stands alone, the inverter is manually switched on and only if needed, and the dockside charger is separate from the inverter. This goes on and on. IF it is convenient to do so, I try to keep from loosing two or three things, just because one went bad.

I do loose a lot of automation, convenience, and information sharing "smarts", from this practice, but I feel that this "separation of function", along with detailed schematics that I draw up after installing each system, give me the best shot of figuring out what is wrong, or how to do without XYZ, and allows ABC to still work.

I would never say that this is the right way to go... just what I do, and what I suggest to my clients who are going cruising with WAY more complicated a systems than they could ever diagnose, much less repair. I guess I am behind the times... I don't even "tweet"!

Regards, Mark
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