Single Line Bridle Rigging

[Double-Wide]

Here is a picture of the single line bridle I just made for Double-Wide. I sewed on leather chafing gear where the bridle comes in contact with the bow-sprit stays when anchored in adverse current.

I used 1/8 " nylon for the center eye seizing and for the chafe protection on the eyes that shackle into the forward beam.



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[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Double-Wide

Attachment 96200

Here is a picture of the single line bridle I just made for Double-Wide. I sewed on leather chafing gear where the bridle comes in contact with the bow-sprit stays when anchored in adverse current.

I used 1/8 " nylon for the center eye seizing and for the chafe protection on the eyes that shackle into the forward beam.



Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Nice looking work!

[SevenSeasU]

We have a Prout Manta 38 so it has a solid fiberglass front deck. So we can anchor like a catamaran off each bow or like a mono hull. Having been caught in a few strong squalls on the Chesapeake Bay, we started to understand that may knots we difficult to get off in a hurry and some of the great metal attachments were too expensive to through overboard.

Evan Starzinger has a great and convincing argument for using soft shackles for attaching the snubber to the anchor chain. We'd been using on for a season now and very happy. Cool thing is they are cheap (if you make them yourself) so there is not reluctance to throwing it away if you really need to get the anchor out a bit more.

http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/snubber.pdf

Mark Brownhill
sevenseasu.com

[tolly]

Originally Posted by deblen

KatieKat 2003 Cruise Chapter Eleven

Explanation of wooden bridle device.

Sorry I didn't find it.
I'm trying to find a proper bridge attachment when I come to the line part of the anchor line-chain.
When I'm on the chain part I will use the Mantus Hook, but the problem occurs when reaching the line. The wooden device looks very nice, but I would like a closer explanation of it.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by tolly

Sorry I didn't find it.
I'm trying to find a proper bridge attachment when I come to the line part of the anchor line-chain.
When I'm on the chain part I will use the Mantus Hook, but the problem occurs when reaching the line. The wooden device looks very nice, but I would like a closer explanation of it.

Rolling hitch is a good option too.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by SevenSeasU

We have a Prout Manta 38 so it has a solid fiberglass front deck. So we can anchor like a catamaran off each bow or like a mono hull. Having been caught in a few strong squalls on the Chesapeake Bay, we started to understand that may knots we difficult to get off in a hurry and some of the great metal attachments were too expensive to through overboard.

Evan Starzinger has a great and convincing argument for using soft shackles for attaching the snubber to the anchor chain. We'd been using on for a season now and very happy. Cool thing is they are cheap (if you make them yourself) so there is not reluctance to throwing it away if you really need to get the anchor out a bit more.

http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/snubber.pdf

Mark Brownhill
sevenseasu.com

I like the idea of a soft shacle/prusiks hitch attachment and will probably experiment with those soon.

[tolly]

I also wonder about the best way of attaching the bridle to the anchor line, when I have passed the first 10ft of chain, and only have a 3/4" line?
What knot or what equipment is suitable?

[mark_morwood]

I'll second the recommendation for a soft shackle. We've been using one for the last 12 months of full time cruising/anchoring and it is much better than either of the two different chain hook arrangements we had previously tried. Easy to attach and detach, secure in light and heavy conditions, and inexpensive.

[colemj]

When we had a mixed rode, to connect the bridle to the rope, I would take a shackle and put a loop of the anchor line through it at the point I wanted the bridle attached. Then connect the bridle shackle to that loop of line. When the rode pulls tight on the bridle at this connection, it is locked like a seatbelt buckle. To undo it, just pull it up, loosen it like a seatbelt buckle and undo the shackles.

More difficult to explain than to do.

Mark

[Tayana42]

Originally Posted by tolly

I also wonder about the best way of attaching the bridle to the anchor line, when I have passed the first 10ft of chain, and only have a 3/4" line?

What knot or what equipment is suitable?

Try a rolling hitch.


S/V B'Shert

[ryon]

Originally Posted by SevenSeasU

We have a Prout Manta 38 so it has a solid fiberglass front deck. So we can anchor like a catamaran off each bow or like a mono hull. Having been caught in a few strong squalls on the Chesapeake Bay, we started to understand that may knots we difficult to get off in a hurry and some of the great metal attachments were too expensive to through overboard.

Evan Starzinger has a great and convincing argument for using soft shackles for attaching the snubber to the anchor chain. We'd been using on for a season now and very happy. Cool thing is they are cheap (if you make them yourself) so there is not reluctance to throwing it away if you really need to get the anchor out a bit more.

http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/snubber.pdf

Mark Brownhill
sevenseasu.com

I have no experience with dyneema so I have to ask, in the linked pdf, is that really how you would make off to a cleat 'normally'?

Also not be pedantic,.. Aw, who am I kidding? I love to be pedantic!.. that is not a tugboat/lighterman's hitch in the last photo. It looks to be a variation of mooring hitch. The standing part appears to be led differently from the previous photo, the working part is finished slippery, and my brain hurts from trying to figure it out.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by ryon

I have no experience with dyneema so I have to ask, in the linked pdf, is that really how you would make off to a cleat 'normally'?

Also not be pedantic,.. Aw, who am I kidding? I love to be pedantic!.. that is not a tugboat/lighterman's hitch in the last photo. It looks to be a variation of mooring hitch. The standing part appears to be led differently from the previous photo, the working part is finished slippery, and my brain hurts from trying to figure it out.

Well...one of my pet peeves is the "normal" (as depicted) "mongolian random wad hitch" you see on cleats around marinas. Holds, but can jam due to overidding hitches, can't be adjusted under load, and slow to sort out if you need to release it quickly. A standard cleat hitch avoids all those issues.

The tug boat hitch is hard to sort out in the image, but is a handy hitch to know...esp if aboard a vessel w/out self-tailing winches or in the case of a failed tailing mechanish...or if you find yourself working on a tug boat with bollards. ;-)

I expect you can find both the proper cleat hitch and tug boat hitch on Grog's excellent Animated Knots site.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

I wouldn't think that typical siezing, like marlin,.would be strong enough (at least it would keep me awake at night), but if you siezed with something like spectra then I expect bridle line strength should still be near 100% (no knots, no splices).

The pursik hitch approach should also have little or no effect on line strength.

I siezed the thimble into my Alpine Butterfly set up, but the siezing is not load bearing, just there to keep the thimble from shifting.

I've done a bunch of testing for PS, including pulling seizings to failure. Because of the way nylon get skinny under load, it is impossible to make a seizing hold past about 30% of breaking strength. It just gets all loose as the line stretches (30% stretch = 30% less cross section).

Sorry, won't work. A figure-8 is about 80% strength in this application, and splicing an eye with a side-splice (Y) is 100%. Tested that too.

The prusick is going to slide far below line strength (20-30%), unless it is on chain. But the chain would need to be in a substantial stopper or belayed to something large.

[mark_morwood]

Originally Posted by ryon

I have no experience with dyneema so I have to ask, in the linked pdf, is that really how you would make off to a cleat 'normally'?

Dyneema is very slippery, so just a couple of "wraps" as you might use on a cleat with a dock line will not hold. It is not really designed to be cleated without a cover. Most knots will also slip in uncovered dyneema. It is however very easy to splice.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by thinwater

I've done a bunch of testing for PS, including pulling seizings to failure. Because of the way nylon get skinny under load, it is impossible to make a seizing hold past about 30% of breaking strength. It just gets all loose as the line stretches (30% stretch = 30% less cross section).

Sorry, won't work. A figure-8 is about 80% strength in this application, and splicing an eye with a side-splice (Y) is 100%. Tested that too.

The prusick is going to slide far below line strength (20-30%), unless it is on chain. But the chain would need to be in a substantial stopper or belayed to something large.

Great! Actual data. Thanks for posting.

Can you post a link on making a side-spliced Y?

I'm puzzled why a prusick (sp?) hitch would lose so much strength if used to connect bridle to chain. For example, I'm thinking of prusick hitch to the mid section of 3/4 three strand nylon, tail of line for prusick hitch them somehow attached to chain. I don't like the idea of directly connecting it due to chafe, but several examples of that posted here. I would prefer splicing in a thimble and attaching via a shackle or similar....or at least a section of heavy cover for chafe protection inside a soft shackle loop.

Under this configuaration, I would expect the 3 strand to retain 100% strength because it has no knots or splices. The prusick hitch would adjust to diameter loss in the 3 strand due to stretch (could cycling at attachment point of prusicks hitch damage the 3 strand?). The line used for prusicks hitch would lose some strength due to hitch, but if its dyneema then even a 20-30% loss would still result in a WLL way above what's needed.

Opinions?