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SaltyMetals · 08-02-2019, 09:54

I recently read some research that was done by some students and the application of what seems to be nick-named as "weasel piss" is absolute magic for siezed bolts. 50%acetone+50% automatic transmission fluid. Truly magic. Heaps better than any penetrating fluid.
Andrew

coastalexplorer · 08-02-2019, 10:57

One point I have not seen exactly raised yet is that Most Allen head screws are made from a heat treated material. There a many grades of SS. So the fact that you suspect they are SS does not necessarily mean that the metal is soft enough to drill out... IF you break one.

Not all perpetration fluids are equal in performance "moveit' by Lloyd's of Peterborough Ontario is particularly good.

The fact that you have stated the female thread is in Bronze. could be your best hope for a solution. Since bronze will expand with heat at a higher rate at a lower temperature try warming it.

Heating a screw or bolt to red heat and quenching with water (where this is possible) is a most successful method that is centuries old technology.

For this localized heat applied should be applied as quickly as possible, Thus an
Oxy-accetaline torch is best. Even small ones with miniature cylinders are available. An electric soldering Iron or gun made by Weller might work on a small screw.

The other old classics have already been mentioned. Such as:-

An attempted turn in before winding out.

Striking with a hammer on the head to provide shock.

A good fitting Allan key, Use of a tube to apply torque.

(with this concept patiently apply the torque load and wait; given a few minutes under load the screw thread is liable to function. you may 'feel' it start to release)

*Much less likely to break it off; As opposed to yanking on it or applying impact.*

I have heard about melting paraffin or bees wax before. but in all my years in engineering I have never seen this done; So it is not a common shop practice thus I do not know if effective? Could have more to do with the necessary application of heat.

In the case of Allen screws that have a head...gripping the head with a genuine Vise grip pliers can be the most effective.

I think this just about covers it?

farmall.dude · 08-02-2019, 11:47

Here's a method I sometimes use when trying to extract bolts that have seized on my antique tractors. After trying all the other less destructive methods like penetrating fluid, impact, torch/heat gun, I weld a big ol' bead on top of the head. That usually heats it up enough to free it. It heats the bolt up and it expands in the threads. Give it a shot of PB Blaster while it's still hot. That cools it, contracting the bolt, breaking the bond and pulls the fluid into the threads. If it still won't budge, I weld a nut on the bead and spray it again. The extra heat from that second weld will either free it or I'll end up breaking it off. In which case, it's either weld another nut or two on or it's drill and tap time.
Good luck!

Siberian Sea · 08-02-2019, 15:12

I would apply heat with a torch if no seals are near, then when it’s hot use an electric impact wrench. The rapid impacts from the tool will almost always work. If you should decide to drill it out I would try an “EZ out” tool first, at this point you have nothing else to loose. But honesty heat and the electric impact tool, try this.

**Dockhead** · 08-02-2019, 15:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by oleman

A very simple and effective tool is the old fashioned "smack with a hammer" impact wrench. The shock from a hammer blow and rotation caused by the blow is effective BUT you have to have room for the tool that has to be inline with the fastener. It also does not shear off the fastener because it only rotates a few degrees when smacked.
Soak, heat, impact. AND make sure you use good quality fitting tools so as to not round out the fastener.

Good luck with your project.

Indeed. Those things are amazingly effective. I think you're right about the "magic" of them -- a blow which breaks up the bond between the parts, and a very slight rotation. I have had great luck with mine even when the socket head of the allen bolt was badly deformed.

jacktheflyer · 08-02-2019, 15:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by captlloyd

I don’t know about you folks but I never, ever, had any luck with an “ easy out”. If a bolt is seized enough to snap off an easy out ain’t going to work.

Me neither. And when the Ezyout snaps you have compounded the problem by jamming hardened steel into the hole which can't be drilled out. All the prior suggestions are good and if they don't work and you snap the bolt, drill and retap is better than risking snapping an Eziout.

JohnBlythe · 08-02-2019, 19:56

Pat
Is the bolt you are trying to remove the lock bolt
for the pivot shaft on the propellers? A M6x14 or M5x16 socket head screw?
Thanks John

mikeod · 09-02-2019, 07:04

If you do end up having to drill and its a hardened bolt use a quality carbide masonry bit. Works great on hardened steel. Good luck

jamhass · 09-02-2019, 07:20

Any of the forementioned approaches can work, but ...

In my experience, it is best to start patiently and cautiously, beginning with the least (potentially) destructive method first, and progressively getting more aggressive as necessary.

It may well take a combination of methods. In a recent similar case on my boat, it was:

Penetrating fluid followed by heat followed by a hand-type impact driver (not too hard a hit). Repeated several times over the course of a couple of hours.

Note that it is important to make sure the hex bit fits the socket-head screw really tight or you may round the socket and really complicate the job.

Woodland Hills · 09-02-2019, 08:02

Pneumatic rivet gun and a screw breaker. Use heat first then let the gun hammer on the screw for a bit before turning. Also tighten it first a tiny bit then back it off.

https://www.opentip.com/search.php?c...SABEgLgt_D_BwE

Dymaxion · 09-02-2019, 10:16

I'll second Heating with a propane torch, watching out for nearby flammable bits, seals etc. Plus penetrating fluids. Then get a decent cordless drill-driver like a dewalt or Milwaukee and use the chuck adapter plus correct size Allen bit. The steady small impacts will work wonders. A full size garage type impact driver (120v or pneumatic) is too much power.

sestina · 09-02-2019, 10:24

Allens are the easiest bolt to drill out. The socket naturally self-centres the drill bit.

coloradoredneck · 11-02-2019, 04:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by oleman

A very simple and effective tool is the old fashioned "smack with a hammer" impact wrench. The shock from a hammer blow and rotation caused by the blow is effective BUT you have to have room for the tool that has to be inline with the fastener. It also does not shear off the fastener because it only rotates a few degrees when smacked.
Soak, heat, impact. AND make sure you use good quality fitting tools so as to not round out the fastener.

Good luck with your project.

Thats actually Called an `` Impact Driver `` , DONT ask the tool seller for an ``Impact Wrench`` -- Those use compressed air to spin sockets , like Prop Nuts , Lug nuts & Larger Bolts ETC , Try that with a screw or allen driven socket head cap screw & IT WILL CAUSE YOU FURTHER PROBLEMS !!!

ESPECIALLY If it really IS Stainless & you end up having to TRY & Drill It Out

!!! -- That being said , 30 yrs of turning wrenches for a Living & 12 yrs of owning my own shop , I AGREE TOTALLY WITH EVERYTHING ELSE SAID ABOVE !!! --- Soak , Heat , Impact driver !!! --- ALSO , PROPER FITTING ALLEN DRIVER BIT !!! -- ``Close `` ISNT `` Close Enough`` !!!
Good Luck , God Speed & Fair Winds to Ya Always ! --- PEACE , From a ``Colorado Redneck`` Currently in Thailand ! ---