Salon Window caulking, sealing and maint.

[Roy M]

I've been using 3M 4000 UV (or is it 4200???) which is white, advertises itself as UV stable, and is fast curing. So far, so good.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Sonosailor

Okay, I'll buy that there is little that can be done to stop the dirty black marks coming from my existing sealant. So... can I hear from anybody who has successfully removed the large acrylic windows from an FP or similar cat for reinstallation?

I've tried to dig out the calking from a 2 sq.ft. window facing the cockpit, so I might use the space for an air conditioner while on the hard in Trinidad, and after a day of trying, I actually gave up!!

Ideas? I'm willing to listen to those who have not yet done it, if they have an innovative idea to try. I'm thinking of some wonderful disk that sits on a drill or dremmel, that digs that black gook without scarring the wondow or the fibreglass. Does something like that exist?

SonoSailor,

Yes, there is such a tool: the Fein MultiMaster: Amazon.com: Fein MultiMaster FMM 250Q Top: Home Improvement

Search the forums for stories about it: good reviews.

Also, if you have no leaks, you could just remove the visible caulking and replace that without removing the windows. Sikaflex 295-UV is obviously UV resistant (is there a "295" without the "UV" suffix??). But remember that once the UV inhibitors are used up it breaks down. Everything breaks down from UV in the end.

cheers,
Nick.

[schoonerdog]

On the low end, I've used flexible break away blade cutters. It's a pain, but with tempered glass I have I'm worried the Fein Master would shatter the window.

Amazon.com: 18mm Replacement Break-Off-Blade (5 Pack): Home Improvement

[s/v Jedi]

I never used it yet, but is has an attachment that is meant for the job with real glass. I hear that it works well, without breaking the glass.

cheers,
Nick.

[pir8ped]

A little off-topic, but I have a Fein Multimaster, and I find more and more uses for it. The last job I had for it was removing some plywood bulkheads that were delaminating. I was easy and neat to cut out the bulkheads, right through the fibre-glass and fillets. No damage to the hull, and the bulkheads came out neat enough that I could use them as templates to make new ones. I'm sure there'd be a blade I could use to cut through the stuff that sticks my windows in. The tool is a bit expensive though!

[Evan]

It is true that 295 is not UV stable. Sikaflex specifically says you should paint the outside of the window or use a ceramic frit (the dark band you see on auto glass)

[s/v Jedi]

Ah, now I remember. They also have a black primer that will protect the sealant against UV when applied to the inside of the glass/polycarbonate

Edit: they have a good brochure online with instructions for use.

cheers,
Nick.

[Sonosailor]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

SonoSailor,

Yes, there is such a tool: the Fein MultiMaster: Amazon.com: Fein MultiMaster FMM 250Q Top: Home Improvement

Search the forums for stories about it: good reviews.

Also, if you have no leaks, you could just remove the visible caulking and replace that without removing the windows. Sikaflex 295-UV is obviously UV resistant (is there a "295" without the "UV" suffix??). But remember that once the UV inhibitors are used up it breaks down. Everything breaks down from UV in the end.

cheers,
Nick.

Thanks, Nick. The Fein MultiMaster looks so good, I want it anyway. Certainly, I'm interested in using it to remove the back window for the air conditioner. But how does it work on the window? Does it just vibrate away, or does it cut in some way? How do you stop it from marring the acrylic or the gelcoat?

Wrt the sealing of the black goop with Sikaflex or another product, I think you're right on, and that is my new path.

[drewke07]

Try the Piano Wire trick. If you can get a thin wire like a piano wire or guitar string through in one spot, many times you can use it to cut the remaining caulk around the window out.

[Sonosailor]

Pardon the long, long, delay. The piano wire trick worked! A hand inside, a hand outside; saw, saw, saw. Actually just used 1/8" cord.

[roverhi]

Maine Sail sells a good quality Butyl. Had a problem port probably that had been leaking forever as the hole was cut poorly with the port frame barely overlaping in one area. The PO's had used a couple of different sealants trying to stop the leak including the dreaded Sillycone without success. Bedded it with Butyl and it stopped the leak for years till I tore the ports out, glassed in the openings and cut in new opening ports. No problems with the sealant migrating or staining once in place. Do not use solvents like paint thinner to clean up butyl. It turns the butyl into a semi liguid slurry that will stain old gel coat. Just scrape it off which is easily done.