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Old 31-01-2008, 20:18   #76
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I am also looking for a solution for my Wilderness. The sign industry use a form of corrugated plastic over here we call it corflute, one type has a very smooth side. It is very light and obviously rot proof. I was thinking to bond an imitation chamios fabric and use velcro stips for mounting which would allow it to be removed for access. If anyone has a better idea I am all ears.

Mike
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Old 31-01-2008, 20:35   #77
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I'll get some pictures of our panels too, if it helps...
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Old 31-01-2008, 20:40   #78
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I would love to see pictures of any and all types of repairs for the liner.
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Old 01-02-2008, 05:13   #79
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Old 05-02-2008, 17:59   #80
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Gord, Are the panels just 1/8 marine plywood or something?
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Old 05-02-2008, 20:19   #81
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Any Privileges in New England?

As Shadow has posted, it can be hard to visualize a boat and it's layout from photos. Do any of you know of any Privileges in the New Enhland area that I could get a look at- no specific model, I'm looking to see the build quality of the 37 to 44 foot models
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Old 06-02-2008, 00:25   #82
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Originally Posted by David Bond View Post
As Shadow has posted, it can be hard to visualize a boat and it's layout from photos. Do any of you know of any Privileges in the New Enhland area that I could get a look at- no specific model, I'm looking to see the build quality of the 37 to 44 foot models
I can't tell you about a any Privileges in New England, but, I can tell you the build quality of a Privilege is right at the top end. For production cats only Catana are as good and Broadblue are getting there.
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:38   #83
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Gord, Are the panels just 1/8" marine plywood or something?
I’m not a carpenter, but I don’t believe they were using “Marine Grade” ply', probably 1/8" Thick A-B or A-2 "Furniture Grade" Plywood (certainly “A” face).
I've even seen smooth (not textured nor molded) "door skins" used.
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Old 06-02-2008, 15:30   #84
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I have specified Airex panels for my boat, they are designed for both indoor and outdoor use, they are slightly flexible, and you can glue whatever you want to them. I will use them as ceiling, as well as shelving - nice and light and strong!

See here: ALCAN COMPOSITES - DISPLAY EUROPE - PRODUCTS: FOREX° - FOREX°classic, General

Please note that SINTRA° is the trade name for FOREX° in North and South America and is handled by our sister company ALCAN COMPOSITES USA.


Regards

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Old 22-03-2008, 20:10   #85
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Lightbulb Plastic Battens for Temp Headliner Fix

We have a 1996 37' Privilege and the headliner in the forward berth was about to smother us. The backing foam had disintegrated in several places and the vinyl was hanging down. Since we were cruising the Florida Keys, we needed a temporary fix. We bought some long 1" plastic strips about 1/8" thick and lots of small screws. We attached the plastic strips fore & aft with screws about every 8 inches. The strips are about 8" apart in the curved areas and about 18" apart in the flatter sections. The plastic battens did a good job of holding up the vinyl and the sagging is minimal. After we were done, it actually looked pretty good. Unless we find an easy & economical replacement material, we may just add a few more battens and declare victory. Unfortunately, a previous owner did a poor repair job and left yellow glue stains in several places that we can't remove. If we decide to keep the current repair, I may go up there with several cans of white vinyl spray paint and spruce up our repair.
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Old 27-03-2008, 14:50   #86
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-- Hi Dave,
I have a 1989 P39 that I am refitting after her career as a charter boat in the Bahamas.
Last summer I replaced all the interior vinyl. I used a white headliner from Seabrook, Awning Material, Textiles, All Sport, Baypoint from Rochford Supply - Your Online Textile and Upholstery Superstore!.
I started with 100 yards of this and have maybe 12' left.
Under the vinyl I used a closed cell foam called volara. The adhesive is old fashioned, high VOC, nasty contact cement. I get the kind that cabinet makers apply by spray gun when applying Formica. I use it with a brush and roller. I have never found a spray can type adhesive that will last in a marine environment. The last time I did a major headliner project was in 1993 on my CAL34. I tried several adhesives before settling on the cabinet grade contact cement. The headliner in that boat is still in place.
Most of the overhead was done with 1/8" foam over wood panels.
In the forward cabins and in parts of the salon I used 1/4" foam, sometimes two layers, and then covered that with the headliner.
Many pieces have seams to finish the edges and we found it easy to sew these on our household duty Janome sewing machine. Gluing the large forward cabin pieces overhead was the hardest part.
Russ Barron
North Palm Beach, FL
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Old 27-03-2008, 20:01   #87
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Hi Russ,

I would love to see how your job turned out.

When I was in Australia, we had spray contact cement professionally applied to join cabin liner fabric to foam backing, and it didn't last beyond a couple of months.

What you have done sounds within the realm of possibility for us. We have a sailrite sewing machine, and I could sew the vinyl pieces together without a problem as long as I was sure the glue would hold. It would be a major dissapointment to do the job and then have it come down from the overhead.

How long did it take you to do the boat?
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Old 28-03-2008, 10:13   #88
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Hi Russ,

I would love to see how your job turned out.

When I was in Australia, we had spray contact cement professionally applied to join cabin liner fabric to foam backing, and it didn't last beyond a couple of months.

What you have done sounds within the realm of possibility for us. We have a sailrite sewing machine, and I could sew the vinyl pieces together without a problem as long as I was sure the glue would hold. It would be a major dissapointment to do the job and then have it come down from the overhead.

How long did it take you to do the boat?
Hi Dave,
It's hard to say how long the liner project took.
I have been working on this refit part time for over a year. In that time I also pulled and had one motor rebuilt, replaced all the lexan, rebuilt the heads and compartments, replaced the ENO stove and oven with new ones, and did various plumbing electrical and rigging projects.
I stripped all the vinyl first, then sanded the old foam and glue remains off. I did not get back to that project until all the new lexan was in.
I will try to get some photos this weekend and post them here.
You are also welcome to stop by for a look if you find yourself down this way.
Russ
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Old 29-03-2008, 09:07   #89
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Hi Russ,

I'm curious what you did for your Lexan. We need to replace most of ours as it's crazed and cracked. Was it difficult to find someone to handle all the required bending? Also curious if you screwed the new ones on or just glued them? Our surveyor felt that part of the reason ours was so cracked is because of the screws and he suggested just gluing them in. Any info+experience on how you did yours would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 29-03-2008, 12:23   #90
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Hello scotte,
I think that the lexan absolutely has to be through bolted. Those big windows are part of the structure and the window frames are quite flexible with the lexan removed.
The 3/8" panels were attached with countersunk flathead bolts and they seemed not to have caused any cracks so I installed the new ones the same way. The side windows are 1/4" and I fastened those with truss head bolts with fiber washers under the heads. All holes have to be chamfered on both sides to discourage cracking.
We used GE Ultra Glaze 4000 Structural Glazing Adhesive to bed the new pieces. I understand the factory uses Betaseal to seal the windows,but I did not know that at the time. Florida Rigging and Hydraulics sells the Ultra Glaze for replacing acrylic hatch lenses and if it works for that I figured it should do OK. I taped small shims ( 1/32" ? ) around the outside of the frame area to keep from squeezing all the sealant out when placing the windows. We tightened the screws down snug but not too tight.
After a few days cure we removed the shims tightened the screws some more and ran a bead around the outside of the lexan. The idea is to leave a gasket of sealant under the lexan. The Ultra Glaze is real nice to work with. A plastic spoon as a trowel leaves a nice fillet.
Be sure to work in the shade, this stuff sets up fast in the sun.

I had the side windows made by Acrylico in Lantana, FL.
Lexan is trickier to form than plexi but I think it's the only possible material for this application. We painted the areas that overlap the frame with black lexan paint before installing. Otherwise you see the sealant beads through the lexan.
It's only been nine months and two Gulf Stream crossings since the install but so far no leaks.

Russ
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