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Old 07-03-2009, 09:44   #256
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The price of the bushings, is that per pair, or individual.

Are these bushings identical with those for the 39?
Talbot, The prices are for each bushing; i.e., if I order 2 they would be $380.00, but if I order 4 the total would be $408. An extra $28 for a spare set sounds like a good deal. I suspect the drawings and jig setups are costly parts, but once they have the design they can "pop them out" fairly cheaply.

I don't know if the 39 uses the same bushings. You might have to contact Alliura for that.
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Old 10-03-2009, 05:18   #257
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Check this out. dirt cheap!

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Old 12-03-2009, 14:50   #258
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I wish, but it is just too big for me.

I have seen an interesting privilege being advertised, but the woodwork looks somewhat water stained and generally not very good.

Does anyone know what the finish is on the woodwork on the 37 and how best to renovate?

Last time I did this on my catalac, I cleaned down to wood and eventually used an SP Ultravar epoxy varnish on it. Finish was great and very durable, but darkened the wood somewhat.
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Old 15-03-2009, 13:46   #259
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I wish, but it is just too big for me.

I have seen an interesting privilege being advertised, but the woodwork looks somewhat water stained and generally not very good.

Does anyone know what the finish is on the woodwork on the 37 and how best to renovate?

Last time I did this on my catalac, I cleaned down to wood and eventually used an SP Ultravar epoxy varnish on it. Finish was great and very durable, but darkened the wood somewhat.
is it the one at multihull world?
i know a bit about it and have discused a restoration path with one or two people including mark the broker.
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Old 15-03-2009, 14:05   #260
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Philip,

Yes it is that one. I dont expect to be in a position to bid before somebody else gets interested, but I like the idea of the owners version. Looking at the pictures shows a boat that has had a hard life. Privilege boats normally have wonderful woodwork, but that one looks very sad. That is a deal breaker but does make a big difference in price, as woodwork neglect = major neglect elsewhere.

I would be interested in your comments, and especially about the restoration of privilege woodwork

Comments on other areas needing work on that boat would also be welcomed
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Old 16-03-2009, 11:34   #261
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the boat wont sell in any hurry!
the vinear is beond salvage and needs sanding and spray painting.
then all solid wood trins can be brought back as new
the windows leak and are crazed and need replacing.
so whith this in mind it can be had for a fair price.
but should still make a verry nice boat.
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Old 16-03-2009, 11:49   #262
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Hi My husband and I own a Privilege48.We have 27hp,saildrive engines does anyone know about shaft drivenengines? We feel the 48' is under powered. Is it feasible to switch for more hp for portside engine to a shaft driven engine?
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Old 16-03-2009, 15:05   #263
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Hi My husband and I own a Privilege48.We have 27hp,saildrive engines does anyone know about shaft drivenengines? We feel the 48' is under powered. Is it feasible to switch for more hp for portside engine to a shaft driven engine?
Anything is feasible, but what you propose would be expensive. It would be a lot cheaper to go for a bigger saildrive.

Why do you want a single bigger engine. this makes it difficult to drive on a single engine, and swap sides to maintain even wear on the engines.

If you are going for larger engines, dont forget that you will also need a larger fuel tank

If you have different sized engines, you will also have to double up on your spares.
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Old 16-03-2009, 15:11   #264
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the boat wont sell in any hurry!
the vinear is beond salvage and needs sanding and spray painting.
then all solid wood trins can be brought back as new
the windows leak and are crazed and need replacing.
so whith this in mind it can be had for a fair price.
but should still make a verry nice boat.
When you say that the veneer has had it, are you meaning that it is lifting from the substrate? Are you advocating a paint job over the veneer?

I wonder if it would be possible to replace the veneer - one of the things I specifically like about the privilege is the superior woodwork.

I would worry that with the amount of water damage that is visible, what is the underlying damage - what a crying shame somebody has allowed this boat to get into such condition.
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Old 16-03-2009, 22:56   #265
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I changed my yanmar 27s to 40 hp and new sd50 saildrives, the saildrives bolt straight on and you only need two adapters 20mm thick to carry the new engine mounts .I have a template for them if you go that way.
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Old 17-03-2009, 01:43   #266
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When you say that the veneer has had it, are you meaning that it is lifting from the substrate? Are you advocating a paint job over the veneer?

I wonder if it would be possible to replace the veneer - one of the things I specifically like about the privilege is the superior woodwork.

I would worry that with the amount of water damage that is visible, what is the underlying damage - what a crying shame somebody has allowed this boat to get into such condition.
if you can find some one up to the task it may be posible to re veneer
but i would doubt it a viable option
most damage will be around the main bulkhead under the windows so in other areas some of the pannels could be restored.
you will still have a boat with a lot of wood.
i agree the woodwork is a thing of beauty but not the only good feature of the boat, and i would still have one with less wood.
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Old 18-03-2009, 13:05   #267
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For the 48 footer in Ft Lauderdale: Have they changed the pictures on the website? I don't see any visible water damage- and the one picture of the hallway and sole actually looks pretty good. Of course they only have a few pictures up....

National Liquidators - 1993 Jeantot, Privilege
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Old 18-03-2009, 15:20   #268
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For the 48 footer in Ft Lauderdale: Have they changed the pictures on the website? I don't see any visible water damage- and the one picture of the hallway and sole actually looks pretty good. Of course they only have a few pictures up....

National Liquidators - 1993 Jeantot, Privilege

Talking about a different boat on the other side of the pond.

The one at National Liquidators looks a nice boat, but is bout 2-3 metres too long.
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Old 18-03-2009, 20:44   #269
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Got it. I missed where you switched over to the 37 in the discussion. Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 24-05-2009, 17:10   #270
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Thumbs up Rudder Bushing Project Has Begun

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Greg , I am sure the bearings are the same top and bottom , It is the shaft that has a built up area where the bearings seat, only by a millimeter.
Thanks to Keith and Mick for the excellent tips on how to do this project. Your help reduced the stress factor for removing the rudder in the water to replace the bushings.

Today, we got the rudder out without too much trouble. I had difficulty removing the bolt that goes through the rudder post and holds the delrin retainer in place. The bolt was slightly bent and I had to hammer a drift pin to force the bolt out. I rigged a crane out of two by fours with a block above the rudder post to support the weight of the rudder (see pic). Unlike Mick, I didn't have two strong divers ready to man-handle the heavy rudder. Once the retainer was removed, the rudder was ready to drop. My bride tailed the line to the rudder post while I held the rudder under water. She lowered it gently until clear of the hull and she just let it hang there. Next I attached another line to the rudder post routed thru a block mounted on my radar arch. She switched the new line to a sheet winch and cranked the rudder out of the water. I put our dinghy under it and she lowered into the dink. From the dink we manhandled the rudder to the dock. It was seriously heavy...I'm guessing 80lbs.

I also had trouble getting out the top rudder bushing. It was a tight fit and had lots of crud around it in the housing. I worked it back and forth and sprayed WD-40 into it to lubricate it. After about 2hrs of playing with it, it finally came out. The top bushing is in good shape so I suspect the lower bushing is the "guilty party" making the noise. I gave a short try at removing the lower bushing in the water, but it felt tighter than the top one. I will need a full SCUBA tank and a bar the same diameter as the inside of the bushing so I can stick it inside the bushing and work it back and forth. I'm anticipating a tough job on that one based on Keith's & Mick's experience on the lower bearing.

After I get the lower bushing out, I'll send them both out to a company to duplicate them (see earlier post for details). I'll do a follow-up when I get the new bushings back and installed.

Overall, I think this job is doable in the water and removing the rudder was the easiest part. If I was in the yard, I'd be digging holes to allow the rudder post to clear the bottom of the hull. See pics below.
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