Modernizing a Prout Elite 37ft

[SaltyMonkey]

This is getting highly serious and technical and and complex. The jig is up, Atoll! Very nice. Advanced skills!

[atoll]

Originally Posted by SaltyMonkey

This is getting highly serious and technical and and complex. The jig is up, Atoll! Very nice. Advanced skills!

thanks,nearly done now, on the last door frame

then hopefully in a couple of weeks it will be warm enough so I can go back to my favourite pass time of bodging with the itchy and scratchy stuff

[s/v Jedi]

How do you keep the stock in place in the jig while routing it? I switched to using a template and put a guide bushing on the router and a straight spiral bit.

[atoll]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

How do you keep the stock in place in the jig while routing it? I switched to using a template and put a guide bushing on the router and a straight spiral bit.

with the double sided jig I use a panel pin tapped in, in the center of the MDF with the head proud, that I remove when I turn it over,and then put a pin in the other side.(1st photo)

with the box jig I use double sided sticky tape and briefly clamp the piece to ensure it sticks well.(2nd photo)

then a spacer stuck on top,before putting the template on top and clamping that.(3rd photo)

the piece is also held in place with 2 bits of radiused MDF held in with the clamp as seen in picture 2.

[s/v Jedi]

yes I looked back and see the pinholes now. Also see the guide bushing in the router

[atoll]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

yes I looked back and see the pinholes now. Also see the guide bushing in the router

I started off using just a single template,with 2x 30mm router bits that had alternate bearings,one with bearing top,the other bottom and changing bits for either side of the radius,but found I got a lot of chip out.

now with the 50mm bit in the photo it is a lot quicker and more accurate with no chip out,and the pinholes disappear with a bit of filler and the stained varnish I'm using.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by atoll

I started off using just a single template,with 2x 30mm router bits that had alternate bearings,one with bearing top,the other bottom and changing bits for either side of the radius,but found I got a lot of chip out.

now with the 50mm bit in the photo it is a lot quicker and more accurate with no chip out,and the pinholes disappear with a bit of filler and the stained varnish I'm using.

I tested with a downspiral bit and some sacrificial material under the stock and this worked very good. Unfortunately I had already finished the project with so-so results but they are invisible after assembly so no issue

I also broke a spiral bit which is not so nice as they are 100% carbide...

[atoll]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I tested with a downspiral bit and some sacrificial material under the stock and this worked very good. Unfortunately I had already finished the project with so-so results but they are invisible after assembly so no issue

I also broke a spiral bit which is not so nice as they are 100% carbide...

ouch! an expensive bit to break,and stressfull on the underpants

but looks like a useful bit to have for plunge cuts,a spiral bit would probably be great to have if I were doing lots of inside edge rebates on radiused corners

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by atoll

ouch! an expensive bit to break,and stressfull on the underpants

but looks like a useful bit to have for plunge cuts,a spiral bit would probably be great to have if I were doing lots of inside edge rebates on radiused corners

The bit broke when my pattern guide bushing came apart. I used a bushing from Bosch which is made from two parts and they came apart. I then switched to bushings made from one piece... the whole set was cheaper than the bit I broke :-S

Here is the set I bought from Porter Cable; they work great but I needed an adapter from Bosch to fit them: http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-4...ilpage_o01_s00

[atoll]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The bit broke when my pattern guide bushing came apart. I used a bushing from Bosch which is made from two parts and they came apart. I then switched to bushings made from one piece... the whole set was cheaper than the bit I broke :-S

Here is the set I bought from Porter Cable; they work great but I needed an adapter from Bosch to fit them: PORTER-CABLE 42000 9-Piece Template Guide Kit - Power Router Accessories - Amazon.com

at $50 for a 10mm spiral bit you would want to be doing a lot of rebates for it to pay for itself!

at the moment I am getting good results with a $5 10mm strait bit,and just doing 3-4 steps,which is what they recommend with a 10mm spiral bit if doing a rebate of 20mm deep.

next month the car boot sales start again in the uk which are a great source for cheap tools,i will keep my eye out for one,as these are just the type of kit you find at a fraction of the cost.

[s/v Jedi]

Exactly. Note that there are two kinds: up-spiral and down-spiral. The up-spiral is good for getting the wood chips out but the down-spiral prevents tear-out at the top of the piece you work on.

I had trouble with plunge-down for big mortices with a regular bit as they don't really cut downwards and that works effortless with a spiral bit With a guide bushing and a hole pattern jig, this also works great for cutting holes in sides of cabinets for those pins that hold up shelves, as up-spiral bits (drill bits) never leave a good looking hole. I believe there are special bits for it though...

Just thought to give you another reason for one

[HappyMdRSailor]

This translates to voodoo magic for me.... Crazy what you guys are capable of doing ! Bravo !

SM - Can you hand me that 2x4 and box of drywall screws??? Imma make a new nav station...

[atoll]

finished varnishing the frames I installed for the doors and trims on the hatches and lockers very happy with the results.

then started on the locker in the port shower/head,will do the starboard side locker that is more or less identical next week.

[boatman61]

Excellent joinery Atoll.. Kudo's..
Your 'Leccy' skills however...

[atoll]

Originally Posted by boatman61

Excellent joinery Atoll.. Kudo's..
Your 'Leccy' skills however...

that's just a work in progress,as the 220v and 12 volt wiring go behind the removable panel that covers the toerail bolts,so no exposed wiring once it is done,