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SaltyMonkey · 16-05-2015, 06:35

I guess everyone is still bailing

**Pete7** · 17-05-2015, 13:58

Need a tri laminate Genoa?

what do you do with old sails?

Pete

**atoll** · 21-05-2015, 00:21

floors with inspection hatches cut out,painted ready to go in.
insulation in place under the floors.
tank tops painted in aft cabins.
fwd bulkheads sanded and varnished,1st coat.

**atoll** · 21-05-2015, 00:29

tank tops,partitions

Buzzman · 21-05-2015, 00:32

Not sure what I'm looking at here, Atoll

If I've got it right; you have a bilge/collision bulkhead area immediately above the keel;

this has inspection hatches in it;

then you've added insulation above that, with sumps around the inspection hatches..??

So does the floor going over the insulation have corresponding inspection hatches, or are the panels not glued in so you can pull them up to get at the little hatches to the bilges..???

Trying to work out what your doing and why....

Gonna have to do something similar myself, so am curious.

**atoll** · 21-05-2015, 00:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Not sure what I'm looking at here, Atoll

If I've got it right; you have a bilge/collision bulkhead area immediately above the keel;

this has inspection hatches in it;

then you've added insulation above that, with sumps around the inspection hatches..??

So does the floor going over the insulation have corresponding inspection hatches, or are the panels not glued in so you can pull them up to get at the little hatches to the bilges..???

Trying to work out what your doing and why....

Gonna have to do something similar myself, so am curious.

what you see are 10cm voids separated by partitions in the under floor area, these are filled with pu foam blocks,and will be fully sealed and have expanding foam injected in alongside the hull to further seal them,then the floor sole laminated to the hull.

the tank inspection hatches in either hull are accessed by hatches in the floor/sole,and can drain to the bilge ,boxed in to separate from the underfloor insulation.

the pu foam in sealed compartments will provide aprox 0.4m2 of buoyancy and heat insulation,as well as hull stiffness along the water line.

I will post some photos once the floors are in,and hopefully this will make the fabrication a bit easier to understand

edit under the insulation are the integral water tanks in the keels of each hull

**atoll** · 21-05-2015, 01:14

should be something like this once completed

SaltyMonkey · 21-05-2015, 06:52

Nice job Atoll! No leaks from the windowz i take it?

Buzzman · 21-05-2015, 20:57

Ahh... OK, water tanks in the underfloor area, then foam layer over the top, then floor on top of that. Got it.

Couldn't work out why you needed so many IOs if it was just the bilge.

I'm planning to have the foam against the hull, no void underneath (don't have the hull depth/internal deckhead height for such luxuries as a bilge), but want to include 50mm of insulation all round to reduce the incidence of damp and condensation, which in turn will reduce mopping up. LIke you, fill the gaps with foamed PU, probably the spray-can type as it's easier to apply.

My hull is multi-chine, so will fill the 'V' with PU foam, smooth it off and then glue the floor sections on top, making for a 'level' cabin sole.

Will probably have a false floor of that wet-area matting that looks like a game of noughts and crosses and is made of a rubbery sort of pvc on top, so any condensation or tracked in water doesn't can seep down to the lowest point for spongeing up.

Then a layer of marine carpet over that to reduce the slips and falls.

Does that make sense or am I crazy?

**atoll** · 21-05-2015, 23:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Ahh... OK, water tanks in the underfloor area, then foam layer over the top, then floor on top of that. Got it.

Couldn't work out why you needed so many IOs if it was just the bilge.

I'm planning to have the foam against the hull, no void underneath (don't have the hull depth/internal deckhead height for such luxuries as a bilge), but want to include 50mm of insulation all round to reduce the incidence of damp and condensation, which in turn will reduce mopping up. LIke you, fill the gaps with foamed PU, probably the spray-can type as it's easier to apply.

My hull is multi-chine, so will fill the 'V' with PU foam, smooth it off and then glue the floor sections on top, making for a 'level' cabin sole.

Will probably have a false floor of that wet-area matting that looks like a game of noughts and crosses and is made of a rubbery sort of pvc on top, so any condensation or tracked in water doesn't can seep down to the lowest point for spongeing up.

Then a layer of marine carpet over that to reduce the slips and falls.

Does that make sense or am I crazy?

that non slip matting is called "Treadmaster" and can be bought by the roll and has an adhesive coating.

with PU foam if possible use ready made sheets(cellotex) and use PU glue(gorilla glue) to fix it as the spray in stuff is a nightmare to work with unless you are injecting into a void.

you can also laminate with resin and matting directly onto the pu foam sheets ,no need to use plywood ontop if you want to save a bit of weight

Buzzman · 22-05-2015, 00:11

I'm planning on using XPS foam blocks for the majority of the 50mm thickness for insulation, but as the hull is multi-chine I end up with a flattish-'V' left in the middle, so was only going to use the foam PU for that, immediately before laying odwn the floor sheets, so it would act as glue and filler.

Seen guys use foam spray PU as glue for foam blocks on YouTube, so I know it's possible.

Also agree that the liquid foaming PU is a pain to work with unless you are filling a void, or like rasping it back flush....

The added benefit, as I see it, of using the XPS foam as insulation is that if the hull should be breached, there will be several cubic feet of 'floatation foam' resisting the effect of the inrushing waters.

Don't have the maths to calc the nett benefit, but it has to be better than nothing at all.

The anti-skid stuff is more like this, not the Treadmaster stuff:
Tube Tred Roll Mat For Wet Area - 900mm x 12 mtr

Looks like a noughts and crosses grid from above....but it's soft and gives a bit so its not hard under foot. Maybe marine carpet over the top, ofr appearance.

**atoll** · 22-05-2015, 01:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzzman

I'm planning on using XPS foam blocks for the majority of the 50mm thickness for insulation, but as the hull is multi-chine I end up with a flattish-'V' left in the middle, so was only going to use the foam PU for that, immediately before laying odwn the floor sheets, so it would act as glue and filler.

Seen guys use foam spray PU as glue for foam blocks on YouTube, so I know it's possible.

Also agree that the liquid foaming PU is a pain to work with unless you are filling a void, or like rasping it back flush....

The added benefit, as I see it, of using the XPS foam as insulation is that if the hull should be breached, there will be several cubic feet of 'floatation foam' resisting the effect of the inrushing waters.

Don't have the maths to calc the nett benefit, but it has to be better than nothing at all.

The anti-skid stuff is more like this, not the Treadmaster stuff:
Tube Tred Roll Mat For Wet Area - 900mm x 12 mtr

Looks like a noughts and crosses grid from above....but it's soft and gives a bit so its not hard under foot. Maybe marine carpet over the top, ofr appearance.

you might want to experiment a bit with xps(polystyrene) foam as it breaks down easily.

my preference is for cellulose expanded polyeurathane foam (cellotex) as it is impervious to solvents and can be formed easily by sanding or cutting.
this makes it easy to prefabricate your panels and they then can be glassed on top to provide a protective outer surface,then glued,and laminated in place.