There are a couple of different kinds of moors that you would normally run for different reasons.
Your bow anchor is your heavy primary on your longest rode, and if you have a power capstan, that's the one you use it with. It can be any type you prefer.
Your secondary anchor needs to be light enough to haul up manually, which in my opinion means it should be an appropriately sized Fortress
with mud-palms. While they're not the best for all situations, they have the most setting power for weight of any anchor. Your secondary rode can be half the length of your primary.
Be CERTAIN that you are anchoring
the same way as everyone else, since the all the boats in the anchorage need to move together. There are quite a few anchorages
in So Cal
that require a fore-aft moor, and we are as likely to deploy two anchors as one.
If you are alone and have enough room, prefer a single
point anchor as there's less stress. All two-point moors put tidal and wave forces somewhat abeam, and they're more likely to drag a little.
bow anchor moors typically use a 7:1 scope
, no less than 5:1, and more than 10:1 provides no further advantage. Your primary rode should be at least 10x the maximum depth
you will ever need to anchor in.
If you have a light, high windage boat that hunts a lot on anchor, try single anchoring
from the stern, and then putting a patch of RF jib
out. That will minimize hunting. Stern anchoring is simply done off either stern cleat or a bridle
off both stern cleats
. Use a typical cleat knot
(with a locking loop) and finish the bitter end with a hitch to something nearby to keep it from working loose.
Tight anchorages often require a fore-and-aft moor, which is easily set. Start with whichever end will be deepest, and deploy the bow and primary heavier anchor with the longer rode here. Back down towards the shallower end (where you will deploy your stern anchor) as you pay out at least a 1:10 scope
. Check your set by motoring against it. At the 1:10 or more scope point, deploy the stern anchor off either side stern cleat. You can use a bridle if you'd like, but I've never found it to be necessary. Move forward again, paying out the stern rode to at least 5:1 while your partner or capstan takes up the bow rode. When you come to the end of the stern rode, you're balanced between the two anchors. Anchoring accomplished. Weighing anchor is the opposite--pay out the bow anchor in order to motor
over the stern anchor, take up the stern and then go forward to take up the primary anchor.
A Bahamian moor is two anchors off the bow. You set it the same way as a fire-aft moor, except that the second anchor is deployed off the bow. Use a Bahamian moor when you're anchoring anywhere with a large tidal flow, as it allows the boat to reverse directions so the bow faces the current
, but does not allow the boat to swing very far. The anchors are set in the direction of the current
flow, not across it. The problem with a Bahamian moor is that the two rodes will get twisted together after a few rotations, which is a huge hassle. You can solve that by deploying the second anchor on a bridle between the forward and mid ships cleats
, so that the anchor attaches a few feet behind the bow. This won't prevent the boat from rotating with the tide, but it ensures that it will rotate back out the correct direction and won't become twisted, or if it does, it's the bridle that's fouled, and you can just detach the second anchor rode and then un-foul the bridle.
There's also a three-point variant of the Bahamian moor, two points off the bow and one off the stern. I'm not sure what it's for and I've never set one.
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