How do you raise your daggerboards?

[2Hulls]

Catana 471 board NOT showing control line - because it runs in a chase below deck level back to a winch just out of view at the helm. Nothing to trip over.

Dave

[ldrhawke]

Photos of how one Fusion owner raises and lowers the dagger boards.

[Nordic cat]

Hi,

It is the make of the winch in the bottom picture that I hope you can help me with.

Looks like it is using an endless line, and is bi-directional. A neat solution if you have the space for it.


Regards

Alan

[mikereed100]

Alan,

Looks like the Antal Line Driver

http://http://www.antal.it/Inglese/Winch/Regolatore.htm

A very slick setup.

Mike

[mikereed100]

They don't come cheap!

http://http://www.svb.de/index.php?s...&listtype=list

[Nordic cat]

Thanks Mike,

470€ a pop!! Definately on the "nice to have" rather than need list

Regards

Alan

[Factor]

Seawind use that line control on the traveller on their 1160.

[CGirvan]

I know this is an old thread but I wonder if anyone has plans for daggerboards and trunks. I thought for sure I would be able to find something on the web, but so far no go.



I realize plans will be boat dependant but I'm just looking for general ideas on how to go about building these. I have some rough ideas on how I would do this but have a few areas where I'm not sure how I would go about it.


One is the lifting or lowering lines, another is any sort of sacrificial section whether on the board or in the trunk, and thirdly is how big a gap between board and trunk and whether a lining of the low friction plastic would be a good idea.


Any help is greatly appreciated.
Colin

[Privilege]

Mike,

Did you take photos of your dagger board build? I am in the same place as you were way back when. I've even made the cross-section shape of the board and attached it to a piece of stick to test it just like in your photos.

I have contacted Privilege but they have been of no use with providing design specs or drawings so I'm making it up as I go along. The trunks of my boat from deck to exit point are about 7' tall. They exit the hull to the outboard side of the keel about 2' below water level. My 44' cat draws 4'4". If I make the board say 14', that will allow me to lower the top of the board to deck level and have 7' protruding below the keel or even let the board sit 1' below deck level and have an 8' board sticking out the bottom. When the board is raised, if I leave it sticking about 4' above deck level, it would leave 3' sticking out the bottom, still higher than the keels. Does anyone have any input to my thinking? I have never used boards and am just making educated guesses as to what seems right.

[Jimmathieson]

Swing Cat

[mikereed100]

Originally Posted by Privilege

Mike,

Did you take photos of your dagger board build? I am in the same place as you were way back when. I've even made the cross-section shape of the board and attached it to a piece of stick to test it just like in your photos.

I have contacted Privilege but they have been of no use with providing design specs or drawings so I'm making it up as I go along. The trunks of my boat from deck to exit point are about 7' tall. They exit the hull to the outboard side of the keel about 2' below water level. My 44' cat draws 4'4". If I make the board say 14', that will allow me to lower the top of the board to deck level and have 7' protruding below the keel or even let the board sit 1' below deck level and have an 8' board sticking out the bottom. When the board is raised, if I leave it sticking about 4' above deck level, it would leave 3' sticking out the bottom, still higher than the keels. Does anyone have any input to my thinking? I have never used boards and am just making educated guesses as to what seems right.

If you go to our blog and click on 'Gallery' then scroll down towards the bottom to 'The Santa Barbara Factory' there are some photos of the build. I used 3/16" Joubert ply over a core of Douglass Fir with a bunch of uni. If I were to do it again I would probably use thicker ply and less bracing. Mine are 12' long for a 46' boat so I don't imagine you would have to go any longer than that.

[Privilege]

Thanks for that Mike, very informative. I've seen another blog where the builder built his boards with the same ribs as yours and covered them similarly to yours but with divinycell foam sheets. If that design is good enough for the both of you, it's good enough for me.

When boards are lowered, does the top sit flush with the deck or do they drop lower?

Thanks again.

[mikereed100]

The tops sit just above deck level. In order to get them below deck level the cases would have to be carefully reinforced and the lowering mechanism would have to be located inside the hull, which creates a whole new level of engineering challenges and opportunity for mischief. This gives me 6' of board under the boat, which I only use when pinching to windward in light air.
If I were to do it all over again, I would probably do it a bit differently, using a method more like Catscetcher describes in the other thread, only I would probably use plywood instead of fiberglass. The challenge with that method, though, would be to match the shape of your board to your cases, so you may be better off doing all that fancy carpentry after all. Be sure to leave yourself plenty of wiggle room for the finished boards. I found out too late that one of my cases was smaller than the other. Guess which one I sized the boards to.