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Old 11-08-2007, 07:37   #46
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My recently purchase cat has a stay running between the hulls (foward of everthing) for the tack of a cruising chute this can then be pulled out to either hull on a pulley. sorry dont have any pics. has anyone come across this arrangement before bit concerned that the forces involved might rip the plates out from the hulls i've already beefed up the backing plate on one hull which appeared to be pulling out.
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:04   #47
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We have this arrangement on our Manta 40. Haven't had any problems with it.
Mark
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:36   #48
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Mark,

Does it work well for you?

Mike
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:55   #49
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thanks mark

its good to know that this is not the only boat using this arrangement! If you could explain how you rig it jibe etc that would be useful as i need to buy lines as i dont think the chute has been flown in the previous ownership! and it would be good to know that the way i'm thinking its done is how its done also what length lines for sheets?

Thanks

John
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Old 15-08-2007, 15:09   #50
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It works just fine but to be clear, I have an assymmetric that is more like a code 0 with a luff rope and a continuous line furler. There is a loose stay connecting each hull on which a wire sheave block runs. The furler connects to a stainless ring on this block and control lines can pull the block from hull to hull riding on the stay. The control lines are run through bullet blocks connected to the stanchions and led back to the cockpit. I have pictures of the rigging somewhere and will try to dig them up.

With the wind forward of the beam, the tack of the sail is centered in the middle of the hulls and the luff is pulled tight with the halyard. This sail loses efficiency the deeper the running angle. It is really meant for 50-110 degrees. However, it does well enough at deeper angles if I pull the tack over to the windward hull and loosen the halyard to give the sail more "belly". I could jibe it by flying it forward of the boat and around to the other side, but I find it easier to just roll it in, jibe and roll it back out. The sheet lines are as long as needed to go back to the winch when the sail is flying downwind (don't know the exact length, but it is only important that they are long enough).

Mark
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Old 15-08-2007, 16:58   #51
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The traditional length for spinnaker sheets is two times the boat length. To be able to gybe, you need the lazy sheet to run forward from the clew around the bow/tack and back down the other side to the turning block near the stern and forward to the winch.

With the arrangement described above you will want the "guys" to be roughly the length of the boat plus the beam of the boat. The leeward guy may need to run from the windward bow, across to the leeward bow and then back to the winch on which you are managing it.

I am working on a bowsprit, but in the interim I have been using a similar but simpler arrangement, flying the assym in a sock, with the two guys running from the tack back through blocks on each bow and back to winches near the stern. By adjusting the length/tension of the guys you can move the tack from the center line out to the windward bow and back as needed.

Mark.
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Old 15-08-2007, 17:27   #52
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Mark,

Thanks for the info. That's a really interesting setup. It seems that you would get the benefits of a prodder without the extra spar while getting the added advantage of being able to move the sail outboard for downwind work.

Mike
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Old 15-08-2007, 20:04   #53
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It works well. Versus a sprit there are some pros and cons:
Pros:
- can get the tack to windward for deep down wind work
- easy to rig, no spar
- no increase in LOA
Cons:
- sprit allows you to get the tack lower
- sprit gets the tack about 4' forward of the genoa
- sprit lets you rig a screecher or equivalent

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