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Old 07-04-2010, 19:21   #16
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I have an eye seized in the middle of my bridle (each end goes to my respective cleats) Then I use a bight of anchor line through the eye in a round turn and secured with a toggle through the bight but snugged up against the eye.

I had hoped that it would be easier to release under tension if I needed to add more scope in a blow but it needs to have the load off the anchor line. The toggle has it's own lanyard back to the crossbeam so it doesn't get lost but that's not been an issue.
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Old 07-04-2010, 19:25   #17
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Jedi, yep that is the ultimate plan - to run it from my breast plate (I think that is what it is called). I especially like that idea because there is no chafe, keeps the line away from the bobstay, and the stress load is to the strongest part of the boat. I need to replace some fittings first or at least take it apart and inspect ( it is 30 years old) so until then I will run it to my cleats.
I have used rolling hitches alot but never to anchor line.

Thanks for the advice,
Erika
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Old 07-04-2010, 22:50   #18
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It's also very low on the hull minimizing the amount of rode needed for the desired scope. If you want 6:1 scope and you bring the snubber 4' down you can reduce the length of rode by 24'.

I use 5/8" nylon 3-strand snubbers and tied them on 3/8" chain and 1.25" rope with rolling hitch with never a problem. I've been watching it during squalls and had a hard time believing it didn't slip... but it never did.

cheers,
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Old 08-04-2010, 21:37   #19
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I have an eye seized in the middle of my bridle (each end goes to my respective cleats) Then I use a bight of anchor line through the eye in a round turn and secured with a toggle through the bight but snugged up against the eye.

I had hoped that it would be easier to release under tension if I needed to add more scope in a blow but it needs to have the load off the anchor line. The toggle has it's own lanyard back to the crossbeam so it doesn't get lost but that's not been an issue.
If I'm picturing that right it sounds similar to the towing becket bend. Do you need the toggle? I don't think so.

Here's a picture -- just imagine that the white line is the bridle and blue line is the anchor line, and one side leads aboard, the other goes to the water. This is not suitable to chain rode, but you could add a chain hook into the eye of the bridle and leave it unused when attached to rope.

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Old 08-04-2010, 22:16   #20
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You're right! I hadn't considered using that concept. But you did envision it correctly. I might give that a try. I only have 60' of chain then braited line so the chain almost always goes out as a minimum. (not so many reeeal shallow anchorages here in the PNW)
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Old 08-04-2010, 22:39   #21
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You're right! I hadn't considered using that concept. But you did envision it correctly. I might give that a try. I only have 60' of chain then braited line so the chain almost always goes out as a minimum. (not so many reeeal shallow anchorages here in the PNW)
I had used this for about 5 years, and may go back to it. Last year I crafted two individual bridal lines with spliced-in high-SWL stainless shackles at each end. The plan was to be able to clip them to rented moorings without concern for chafe OR use a rolling hitch (leaving the shackle hanging at that end).

A new idea I picked up from this thread is to try a short loop of double-braid Spectra-core line with the Klemheist knot in lieu of the rolling hitch. Then hook the bridle onto that. That looks like it would be much easier to work with when attaching/removing and adjusting the bridle.
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:07   #22
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Would the toggle go in the bight (loop) of the blue line then? I worry about what would happen if the wind goes slack and tension releases.

Fair Winds,
Mike
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:32   #23
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Would the toggle go in the bight (loop) of the blue line then? I worry about what would happen if the wind goes slack and tension releases.

Fair Winds,
Mike
It will not release on its own, even if wind goes slack. Those are wet lines - they conform and grab each other.

In any event -- no worries, because the anchor line is still contiguous and the slack leg (to the boat) should still be secured to a strong bow cleat as backup.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:35   #24
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It's also very low on the hull minimizing the amount of rode needed for the desired scope. If you want 6:1 scope and you bring the snubber 4' down you can reduce the length of rode by 24'
I never thought of that re scope being measured from where the bridle is attached to the chain rode. On my cat the 10metre bridle ends up about 2 metres underwater, when there is no significant wind or current. So is my scope length measured from that point to the anchor?

I have always attached the bridle at a point five metres before the 5:1 scope point (to compensate for the bridle length). The scope distance is measured from top of cross beam to the water (2.5 m) plus draught (1m) plus depth on sounder (boat "keel" is off set) and also hang a good loop of chain down in between bridle legs for catenary. So I have probably actually had 7:1 scope. Is that correct??
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:36   #25
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No, the scope is the distance between the cleat or attachment point used for the bridle and the seabed vs the total length of the rode. When the winds go up high enough the rode plus snubber go tight as a string.

So, attaching the snubber/bridle as low as possible is the best thing to do.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:22   #26
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No, the scope is the distance between the cleat or attachment point used for the bridle and the seabed vs the total length of the rode. When the winds go up high enough the rode plus snubber go tight as a string.

So, attaching the snubber/bridle as low as possible is the best thing to do.

cheers,
Nick.

If we want to be more precise in wording, the scope is the ratio of rode length to depth from point of attachment. Thus lowering point of attachment increases scope.
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Old 09-04-2010, 12:36   #27
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If we want to be more precise in wording, the scope is the ratio of rode length to depth from point of attachment. Thus lowering point of attachment increases scope.
right on, thanks!
Nick.
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Old 26-09-2010, 12:28   #28
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So glad I found this site. This is my first cruising boat and the wife and I have had a blast anchoring out overnight on the Chesapeake. I've had a problem with my boat sailing around at anchor though ("Like a carnival ride" - LOL). I talked to my rigging friend and he suggested a bridle. I went to Chapmans, but didn't find anything. I could see other boat had additional lines in the water, but didn't know how it was connected. After reading multiple posts here, I tried this today:

I'm in about 10 feet of water with 4 feet of freeboard with 50 feet of chain and 25 feet of 5/8" line in a 10 knot breeze. I didn't have 3 strand of nylon handy, so I took a left over 50 foot piece 1/2" double braid. I pulled up about 12 feet of anchor line and attached the Midpoint of the bridle line to the anchor line using the Prusic knot, then tied the bitter ends to the port and starboard bow bits. The anchor line is totally slack and the bridle is taking the entire load. I'm watching the windex and it does seem to be better.

Is this what ya'll had in mind? Is it right, or do I need to create some kind of loop at the prusic and run a second line so I'm not twisting the anchor line when it swings???

Many thanks in advance.

Mark
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Old 26-09-2010, 13:09   #29
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Hey Mark...welcome to the forum.
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Old 26-09-2010, 14:49   #30
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Mark,

You have the correct basic idea. Not entirely sure the Prusik is the best way to go, we always preferred a rolling hitch (until we went to all chain rode), but you can experiment with knots to find what works best.

There is a bit of concern with twisting the bridle and the rode, which is a benefit of having chain rode and then using a bridle that has a swivel. Do you have a swivel on the anchor?

BTW, Welcome to CF!

Fair Winds,
Mike

Quote:
Originally Posted by Windseeker View Post
I'm in about 10 feet of water with 4 feet of freeboard with 50 feet of chain and 25 feet of 5/8" line in a 10 knot breeze. I didn't have 3 strand of nylon handy, so I took a left over 50 foot piece 1/2" double braid. I pulled up about 12 feet of anchor line and attached the Midpoint of the bridle line to the anchor line using the Prusic knot, then tied the bitter ends to the port and starboard bow bits. The anchor line is totally slack and the bridle is taking the entire load. I'm watching the windex and it does seem to be better.

Is this what ya'll had in mind? Is it right, or do I need to create some kind of loop at the prusic and run a second line so I'm not twisting the anchor line when it swings???

Many thanks in advance.

Mark
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