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Old 17-07-2014, 18:04   #16
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Re: Yanmar Help!

Again, do you have temps. of the engine when the "steam" is most prolific and when it is least?
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Old 17-07-2014, 18:23   #17
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Re: Yanmar Help!

My opinion based on watching what looked like steam rising from my friend's engine exhaust and waking him from a dead sleep unneccesarily is that you really don't have a problem. It's just fog from a different temp. of water going through your cooling system.

kind regards,
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Old 17-07-2014, 19:51   #18
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Re: Yanmar Help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mangata View Post
............
and I'm glad to spread the word about Rydlyme, just be sure to get their marine version. =)
And I note it is produced by an Aussie company although from their website, it was first "was developed in 1942 by the Apex Engineering Products Corporation located in Plainfield Illinois, USA"

Again, thanks!
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Old 18-07-2014, 10:36   #19
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Re: Yanmar Help!

wotname,
the engine will run at about 145 degrees @ 1500 rpm constantly with no visible "fog" in the exhaust. when raised to 2000 rpm, the fog appears and the engine temp is 160. when at cruising 2400 rpm the temp is 165 and the fog is quiet prolific (10' out the back) but dissipates quickly. when at 3000 rpm the fog is like a choo choo train, 15' back, and the engine is at 170.

again, the temps I am referring to are shot with the infrared gun on the front of the block. the manifold will get to an excess of 250 degrees when at full throttle, which is why i was assuming the exhaust is flash steaming the cooling water in the elbow... but it sounds like this is normal?

I guess I am just used to running in warmer water with a closed system. I just want to make sure everything is hunky dorey before I head into Glacier Bay. don't want the engine to fail with no wind while sitting in front of a calving glacier!

m-
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Old 18-07-2014, 15:22   #20
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Re: Yanmar Help!

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wotname,
the engine will run at about 145 degrees @ 1500 rpm constantly with no visible "fog" in the exhaust. when raised to 2000 rpm, the fog appears and the engine temp is 160. when at cruising 2400 rpm the temp is 165 and the fog is quiet prolific (10' out the back) but dissipates quickly. when at 3000 rpm the fog is like a choo choo train, 15' back, and the engine is at 170.

again, the temps I am referring to are shot with the infrared gun on the front of the block. the manifold will get to an excess of 250 degrees when at full throttle, which is why i was assuming the exhaust is flash steaming the cooling water in the elbow... but it sounds like this is normal?

I guess I am just used to running in warmer water with a closed system. I just want to make sure everything is hunky dorey before I head into Glacier Bay. don't want the engine to fail with no wind while sitting in front of a calving glacier!

m-
M, thanks for the detailed response to my question. Unfortunately it tells me that I asked the wrong question - or perhaps a badly worded question. Sorry!

Let me try again...

When running at a constant RPM (say 2000 or 2400), does the block temperature change on the sunny warm days (when the "steam" is least) compared to the colder days when you notice more "steam".

I ask because in the OP you state "It does seem to be temperature dependent, as in, on a sunny warm day there is almost no steam".

It really does seem to me that if the engine temperature isn't changing (at the same RPM), then the "steam" you notice on different days is unrelated to engine temperature and as such, is not an indicator of any engine cooling problem.
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Old 18-07-2014, 15:28   #21
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Re: Yanmar Help!

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My opinion based on watching what looked like steam rising from my friend's engine exhaust and waking him from a dead sleep unneccesarily is that you really don't have a problem. It's just fog from a different temp. of water going through your cooling system.

kind regards,
But, then again, I've never consistently run any diesel boat engine above 2200 rpm and more often at 1850 or so.
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Old 18-07-2014, 16:36   #22
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Re: Yanmar Help!

The only important temperature reading is the water temp. Case surface temperature has little bearing on water temp. If the discharge water is in the range of 100-120 degrees your 100% fine as far as coolant temperature goes with a raw water cooled unit. Yes the surface will be hotter then the water. It has to be in order for the heat to flow to the cooler water. The engine WILL read higher temps on the exhaust manifold and on the case, from convection through the metal.

As long as the discharge water is below 140 degrees, Life is good. If anything, I expect it's cooling too well.
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Old 18-07-2014, 16:45   #23
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Re: Yanmar Help!

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Originally Posted by sailorchic34 View Post
The only important temperature reading is the water temp. Case surface temperature has little bearing on water temp. If the discharge water is in the range of 100-120 degrees your 100% fine as far as coolant temperature goes with a raw water cooled unit. Yes the surface will be hotter then the water. It has to be in order for the heat to flow to the cooler water. The engine WILL read higher temps on the exhaust manifold and on the case, from convection through the metal.

As long as the discharge water is below 140 degrees, Life is good. If anything, I expect it's cooling too well.
The only caution being if the "exchange" of heat is being impeded somehow.

Reading everything here I am cautionary optimistic that this is just condensation due to low OAT.

The I/R meter should be aimed at each injector port and each exhaust port differences noted and temps monitored.

My brother started doing this on his (I don't know model) 6 banger. Log the temps and look for changes over time.
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Old 20-07-2014, 01:20   #24
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Re: Yanmar Help!

Mangata,

You have inspired me to check the block temperature of my engine in order to have a baseline for any future cooling issues. While my set up isn't the same as yours, it is similar so you may be interested to see these numbers. The engine temperature was taken with Fluke Mini 62 IR meter pointing at the welch plug on the front of the block at a range of about 8 inches. The engine was under normal load in calm conditions.

Yanmar 2GM20, raw water cooled.
Inlet water temperature - 45F
Air temperature - 50F
At 2,000 RPM - 130F
At 3,000 RPM - 150F

AFAIK, my engine cooing system is fully serviceable with no defects; it has 260 hours done over the last four years and although the engine is now around 12 years old, it sat band new on the hard for the first 8 years. Only planned maintenance (cooling wise) is to check / replace the block zinc soon.
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