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Old 29-05-2013, 09:13   #61
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Re: Wood for interior

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Originally Posted by s/v Beth View Post
Sand Crab- all of us have genetic predispositions to things. I take care of people like you that show only mild effects of toxins they have been exposed to, others have horrendous growths that quickly end their lives. There are a lot of woods out there, given what I have seen, and the fact I may want to keep pets on board at some time, I will not be using cedar.You pick your poisons and live with what you want I guess. I just wanted people to know that it is a toxin.
Defin- if you don't know that cedar is a known pesticide...well I can't help. As for ants, they will be crawling around long after the human race is gone. Biologically, they are much tougher than you or I, and stronger too.
I think the process of removing the cedar will expose you to more of the dust and more toxins. Maybe the best thing to do is varnish it. This will reduce your exposure and you can still enjoy its beauty.
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Old 30-05-2013, 08:46   #62
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Re: Wood for interior

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DOH.

Ok....the seam covers are two piece, spaced 2' apart. From memory, the base that covers the seam and screws into the deck beam is around 2" wide and 1/2" deep. The cap piece is 2 3/4" x 1/4" bullnose, both out of Jotoba. The over hang gives a finger support for grabbing out in a seaway. The cap is screwed onto the base, then plugged.

I put a faux deck plank fore and aft that actually forms a raceway for wiring, and the seam covers butt up against that in the main saloon, master and forepeak office.

And yes, the idea of epoxying battens onto the underside of the cabin top to give you something to screw into makes sense. You don't need more than 1/4 to provide something to screw into.

There might be another way to do it, but were it moi, I would kerf a strip of 1/4" spruce so that when combination glued with epoxy and contact cement, the batten will stay in place from the contact cement until the epoxy kicks off.

Is that closer to what you were asking?....
Absolutely thanks!
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Old 30-05-2013, 09:53   #63
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Re: Wood for interior

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Bamboo is wicked hard, but you better really like it because it is awfully busy. Definitely check out Jotoba flooring. This is only 3/4 inch thick so the weight shouldn't be too bad. If you went this route, glue it to the substrate.
Actually be careful using bamboo on floors. Yes the outer part of a bamboo stalk is very hard, but much of the flooring material dents very easy... must be the way they cut it or something. I have a friend who put it in their new custom house and it's holding up terribly. Of course, you should be wearing soft shoes etc on a boat anyway....
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Old 30-05-2013, 11:55   #64
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Re: Wood for interior

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Actually be careful using bamboo on floors. Yes the outer part of a bamboo stalk is very hard, but much of the flooring material dents very easy... must be the way they cut it or something. I have a friend who put it in their new custom house and it's holding up terribly. Of course, you should be wearing soft shoes etc on a boat anyway....
You're quite right. It is not as hard as I thought it was, with a Janka hardness of 1380 compared to Jotoba at 2350. By way of reference, Purple Heart is 1860 and White Oak is 1360, so it's a bit harder than Oak but no where near as robust as other options.
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Old 30-05-2013, 12:29   #65
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You're quite right. It is not as hard as I thought it was, with a Janka hardness of 1380 compared to Jotoba at 2350. By way of reference, Purple Heart is 1860 and White Oak is 1360, so it's a bit harder than Oak but no where near as robust as other options.
If you want a hard floor, use tile
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Old 30-05-2013, 12:43   #66
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Re: Wood for interior

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If you want a hard floor, use tile
Oh, thank you - that's a splendid idea, offered with your typical graciousness.
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Old 30-05-2013, 13:17   #67
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Re: Wood for interior

Why is it I always feel bad for the OP in any serious thread on any forum out there!
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