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Old 23-02-2014, 10:04   #1
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Windlass foot switch buttons

I bought two windlass foot switch buttons 3 years ago when Lewmar recalled mine due to a risk of contacts welding. One has now failed with the rubber switch membrane wearing out and water getting in. I want to try a different make now.

Can anyone recommend a switch that lasts?
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Old 23-02-2014, 11:40   #2
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

Maxwell
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Old 23-02-2014, 12:41   #3
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

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Maxwell
Thanks.
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Old 24-02-2014, 05:54   #4
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

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Maxwell
How old is it?
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Old 24-02-2014, 13:18   #5
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

I was curious if you had a wiring diagram for your two switch windlass set up? I currently only have a single switch for "up" only... I'd like to add another switch so I use it to drop the hook "down".

Let me know.
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Old 24-02-2014, 13:58   #6
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

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Originally Posted by SailK2 View Post
I was curious if you had a wiring diagram for your two switch windlass set up? I currently only have a single switch for "up" only... I'd like to add another switch so I use it to drop the hook "down".

Let me know.
They all do control boxes for them. Maxwell, Lewmar etc. There are standard relays / contactors available too if you want to wire up your own control box. Look for "motor reversing contactor". I know Albright make them for example. There will be circuit diagrams in their technical information. Just to go up is really simple and can work straight off the buttons.
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Old 24-02-2014, 21:40   #7
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

I don't know how long our switches have been installed but would think around 7 years. You can buy a plastic flip up cover which then protects the rubber diaphragm over the switch.
Alternatively after buying the up/down control box you could just put in a wireless remote and not have foot switches. I've just installed a wireless system from Harbor Freight designed for vehicle winches and costing $35.
The remote is water resistant and hangs off a lanyard.
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Old 24-02-2014, 23:01   #8
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

Thanks that is a great idea.
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Old 24-02-2014, 23:39   #9
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

I installed two deck switches, I believe Lewmar, and have decided to replace them with Maxwell. One of the covers broke off within a few weeks. Quite flimsy. Then one switch stopped working so I opened it up to discover a bare copper switch plate that was corroded. Interestingly the other switch had a plate that was tinned. The Maxwell foot switches have what appear to be stronger cover plates. They are actually designed to work without covers, that is the rubber cover is UV resistant, so they should last a long time with covers. The switches themselves are designed to handle high currents so should not be bothered by the low currents controlling my up/down control box, also a Maxwell. Time will tell.
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Old 26-02-2014, 20:59   #10
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

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Originally Posted by poiu View Post
They all do control boxes for them. Maxwell, Lewmar etc. There are standard relays / contactors available too if you want to wire up your own control box. Look for "motor reversing contactor". I know Albright make them for example. There will be circuit diagrams in their technical information. Just to go up is really simple and can work straight off the buttons.
As much current as a windless draws, I don't think that you would want to run it directly off of the foot switch unless you don't want your foot switch to last more than a few times.
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Old 27-02-2014, 03:23   #11
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Re: Windlass foot switch buttons

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As much current as a windless draws, I don't think that you would want to run it directly off of the foot switch unless you don't want your foot switch to last more than a few times.
That is correct. The kit that comes with the down only version will have a contactor/solenoid operated by the up button in the circuit. To go down as well will require a new control box and a reversing contactor. The windlass load will be beyond the current capacity of all but the heaviest duty switches. Mine is fused at 160A.
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