Will a hydraulic swage tool work for standing rigging

[san juan 7.7]

I'am trying to do this myself and swage my own cables for my 26ft boat. Would this tool do the job?

Inline Design Hydraulic Crimping/Swaging Tool Kit 12 Ton Cable Crimper Dies
[

Or one like this. Very interested in advice from people who have done or been threw this. Thanks

[kjames]

San Juan, I'm very interested in this but your links are missing. Found this on Amazon though.
Inline Design Hydraulic Crimping/Swaging Tool Kit 12 Ton Cable Crimper Dies - Amazon.com

Cheers

[san juan 7.7]

Yes that is the one.

[Jim Cate]

SJ, are you talking about swaging terminals onto 1x19 wire or using thimbles and forming eyes in 7x7 or 7x19 wire with Nico-press or similar ferrules?

IF the former, the little tool shown is not likely to be adequate. If the latter, it might well do the job IF you have the correct jaws (whatever you call the calibrated inserts that actually compress the sleeve) for the size used.

Cheers,

Jim

[skipmac]

Why not just use Sta-Loks, Norseman or similar fittings that require no tools? Very easy to do and probably cheaper after factoring in the cost of the swaging tool.

[gjordan]

I would think that 16 or 18 Norseman or Staylocks would add up to a large chunk of money, even on a 26 footer. If that is an actual swedging tool you will have to buy the correct end fittings and some extras to learn how to use them. Unless you have RTW plans, you might want to just do a real good inspection with dye penatrent and replace as needed. GOOD LUCK____Grant.

[Cheechako]

Most West Marine stores have a bench mounted crimping tool if you are using Nicopress fittings...... also, check tool rental stores...

[GrowleyMonster]

If 7 strand, you could of course splice eyes in the ends. A properly executed splice is in many ways superior to sweged fittings. Where do most failures occur? At the lower end of a wire, inside the sleeve. 1x19, I don't have a clue about splicing and it probably isn't practical. 7 strand or 6 strand over a fiber core, is easy sneezy once you got some practice. Especially for the small stuff that we use on sailboats for rigging. I have spliced wire up to 2" dia and the big stuff can be a pain even with the right tools. Sailboat rigging splices can be done without the "necessities" like a rigger's screw.

[delmarrey]

I have one of the hyd, crippers above that I've modified for doing battery cables. I would not recommend it for stays/shrouds. Rigging wire needs/requires a calibrated die. If not crimped enough, it could come loose. If crimped too much it could damage the wire and/or the fitting.

Each die is made specifically for each brand and size of swag fitting. And are very expensive.
Take your stuff to a professional! You'll sail with confidence.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

SJ, are you talking about swaging terminals onto 1x19 wire or using thimbles and forming eyes in 7x7 or 7x19 wire with Nico-press or similar ferrules?

Jim has the right question. Do you want to take Nico-Press crimp fittings to make an eye like the first images OR a barrel type swage fitting that the wire fits into and is compressed in place like the last picture?

If a Nico-Press type fitting then the hydraulic crimper can do the job with the correct size jaws. The barrel swage fitting, as far as I know, takes a special and much more expensive tool and probably a bit of practise as well to get a good fitting.

If you want the later then pay a rigger or go with a StaLok or Noresman DIY type fitting. If you're happy with a Nico-Press style then give it a try.

[Straightrazor41]

I have recently researched this same question and the answere is No. The 12 tons of pressure delivered isn't nearly enough. The swagging machine used professionally applies enough pressure to nearly weld the fitting to the wire, seems like it was in the range of 60,000 tons using a calibrated die to prevent damage to the cable. I researched thoroughly and the only do it yourself rigging solution is mechanical connectors. If your sailing in salt water the mechanical option is even more reliable.

[Cheechako]

There are a couple of different types of swaging used in rigging also. One type just squeezes the fitting down on opposite sides. You can tell these as they usually have a line on either side where the dies come together. Often they can be a little crooked or bannana shaped if not well done.
The other type, used at quality rigging shops, is Rotary Swaging, as used in aircraft and other precise work. A machine rotates the dies around the fitting gradually mashing it down to a precise dimension. Far superior to the other type.
BTW, there are end fittings made with long shanks so you can cut your old wire and swage new fittings on the end. I wouldnt think that just having ends swaged on if you have the wire cut and fittings ready would cost too much.

[Geoduck]

spend the money, buy Haynes mechanical fittings - they can be used over and over again. imop - better than Norseman or Stalok

[GrowleyMonster]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

There are a couple of different types of swaging used in rigging also. One type just squeezes the fitting down on opposite sides. You can tell these as they usually have a line on either side where the dies come together. Often they can be a little crooked or bannana shaped if not well done.
The other type, used at quality rigging shops, is Rotary Swaging, as used in aircraft and other precise work. A machine rotates the dies around the fitting gradually mashing it down to a precise dimension. Far superior to the other type.
BTW, there are end fittings made with long shanks so you can cut your old wire and swage new fittings on the end. I wouldnt think that just having ends swaged on if you have the wire cut and fittings ready would cost too much.

That could be an excellent option. OFten the body of the wire is still in great shape. Corrosion is often localized at the lower terminal end. Me, I splice. If I have to cut one back, I add chain. (It's called a chain-plate, after all!) Not neat, but it works. I don't have a neat boat, anyway.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by GrowleyMonster

That could be an excellent option. OFten the body of the wire is still in great shape. Corrosion is often localized at the lower terminal end. Me, I splice. If I have to cut one back, I add chain. (It's called a chain-plate, after all!) Not neat, but it works. I don't have a neat boat, anyway.

You would be better off with a SS toggle.

If you we're to use 316 SS chain for 316 3/8" cable, the chain would have to be 3/4" or larger. Good luck adapting that!

If you used G4 galvanized chain it would have to be 3/8". Once it started working it would bleed rust all over the chain plates.

.