Vp 2003

[AlanT2]

Hi all
I am new to this community.
Can anyone tell me if Beneteau have there own number on Volvo penta 2003 engines. Mine was built in 1985 and the only number i can find on the engine is on a plate saying 2003 fl10203
Anyone know what this might mean?

Thanks
Alan

[Pete7]

Alan, welcome to CF.

The only number I can think of on mine is on a plate on the gearbox.

Since the engine was built by Volvo rather than blocks bought in to be marinised, I doubt it. Imagine the problems with a recall or a dealer trying to find and track part numbers.

Do you have a problem with it?

Pete

[Dsanduril]

What you have is all there is for the older engines. Volvo changed their serial numbering in the early '90s - the serial number lookup on their website doesn't work for numbers issued before 1991. A decent dealer should be able to help you out with the information you have. If you just want the basic manuals you can get them here. Enter '2003' in the Product Designation box.

If you're looking for a workshop manual there's a scanned version here.

[AlanT2]

Thanks for the help. I will get on to a VP dealer tomorrow.
The problem I have is that I have exhaust gas coming up between the injector and the sleeve. Have tried to clean it but with luck and have taken some advice and will give it another go. Failing that I will need to get a new injector sleeve so needed to know exactly what the engine is.

I have read that the sleeve does not have a washer in it but will sometimes work if you put one in. Any thoughts on this?

Alan

[marcofailla]

If I comprehend well I had the same problem on my VP2003
Firstly be aware that The longer you run the engine the worst you’ll find injector sleeves, because high pressure combustion gases find and maintain their way
I treated the problem by sanding the sleeve bottom and adding a washer, the washer alone was not able to contain the problem
Please take a look at this post of mine. It’s in Italian but hope images to be self explanatory
Cheers marco
http://forum.amicidellavela.it/showt...php?tid=114486

[AlanT2]

Hi Marco
Yes, that is exactly the problem. I have a tool which cuts a new flat face for the bottom of the injector to sit on. I used this once but did not work. Will give it another go this weekend and try using the washer.
If this will not work I will replace all the sleeves.

Regards
Alan

[marcofailla]

Here is copy and paste of the post, I thought that you could not see the images without a login


Fatto fare il tagliando, puliti gli iniettori...zacchete....
Gli iniettori sfiatano...
Il meccanico se ne lava le mani (e non solo di questo... Vedi thread pompa acqua andata...)
Pazienza, Liquidato con grande sollievo l'amicone... Mi do da fare un po' affranto ma deciso
I primi preventivi arrivano a mille euro...
Sistemata la pompa dell'acqua...chiamo in causa pepilene (chiamato macgiver al lavoro)
Apriamo gli iniettori e mettiamo delle rondelle di rame (30 €cent)
Uno tiene...evviva
Gli altri due invece la rondella non basta
Ecco come si presenta la sede
La gola si sente bene con la punta del cacciavite, per rimuovere questa sede occorrerebbe smontare la testata ed estrarla con un apposito attrezzo

Ecco a pepilene viene in mente una idea
La sede é spessa due-tre mm, la gola sarà profonda mezzo mm... Tocca levigarla..
Oggi trovo il tempo e le forze salgo in barca armato di uniposca scarico, biadesivo morbido buono e carta abrasiva da 60 e 180 buona 3M mi pare (3.50€)

rismonto gli iniettori (chiave da 10, 13, 17)
Con un pezzo di fil di ferro piegato a L estraggo la povera rondella
Comincio a girare a mano e solo in un senso l'accrocchio


Aggiungo biadesivo e metto la carta da 180
Questo il risultato all'iniettore num 2
e all'iniettore num 1

Il più del rame viene via attaccato alla carta abrasiva ma un po mista a nafta si accumula nel bordo del buco dell'iniettore
Uso un cacciavite passato con del grasso per pulire il grosso

Pulisco con la carta
Appiano le vecchie rondelle con la carta abrasiva che mi scocciava rientrare in citta
Rimonto il tutto
Risultato....
https://vimeo.com/153358917
Perfetto
Il liquido é sgrassatore chante clair Spruzzato li per vedere le bolle
90 minuti scarsi di lavoro facile facile, meno di cinque euro di spesa, tanta resa e la soddisfazione di essersi levati da sotto lo spauracchio della rimozione della testata
...
Certo, le rondelle non ci stanno lì, ma conta come mezza rondella di spessore visto quello che ho tolto con la carta abrasiva, il motore é regolare e parte al primo colpo...
Il meccanico sfregando le mani (giuro) mi fa... Solo il kit guarnizioni siamo intorno a 500€... Figurati il resto... (Roba

[AlanT2]

Hi Marco
Yes have seen the photos. Thanks
Will let you know how i get on.

Alan

[Pete7]

How do you get the copper swarf out afterwards?

Pete

[AlanT2]

Hi Pete
The cutting kit I have comes with plugs to stop anything from going down into the head. Once you have cut for some time you can put a pipe connected to a vacuum cleaner down the sleeve to clean any bits you have removed. If you have no cleaner use a screwdriver with the end wrapped in sticky tape facing outwards and keep changing when it needs it.

Don't forget to take the plug out!!!!!! when you're done.

Alan

[Thank you dad]

Originally Posted by AlanT2

Thanks for the help. I will get on to a VP dealer tomorrow.
The problem I have is that I have exhaust gas coming up between the injector and the sleeve. Have tried to clean it but with luck and have taken some advice and will give it another go. Failing that I will need to get a new injector sleeve so needed to know exactly what the engine is.

I have read that the sleeve does not have a washer in it but will sometimes work if you put one in. Any thoughts on this?

Alan

throw the engine away and start over, i spent 3K last year rebuilding the head, which is required to fix this, then had other issues. should have saved the 3 and put it into the new yanmar that i ended up buying.



I was very painful to bite the bullet but the best thing i have ever done on my boat.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Thank you dad

throw the engine away and start over, i spent 3K last year rebuilding the head, which is required to fix this, then had other issues. should have saved the 3 and put it into the new yanmar that i ended up buying.



I was very painful to bite the bullet but the best thing i have ever done on my boat.

I pretty much did the same thing. Pulled the head and put in new sleeves. Valve job, etc. If I included fixes up to the new sleeves and stuff months afterward, it was death by a thousand paper cuts. I ended up pulling the engine and putting in Yanmar.

[AlanT2]

Not to the point of throwing a perfectly good engine away yet.
Spoke to a VP dealer and he confirmed that the FL number on my engine is its only number and he can get the Spares that I may need.

[Thank you dad]

Originally Posted by AlanT2

Not to the point of throwing a perfectly good engine away yet.
Spoke to a VP dealer and he confirmed that the FL number on my engine is its only number and he can get the Spares that I may need.

thats how i felt as i kept throwing good money at a 30 year old bad motor. Unless you plan to sell the boat, you're going to have to do this sooner or later, this is as good a time as any.

[Neptune's Gear]

I dont think the 2003 series is a bad engine. Like any engine it can be treated badly. If the injectors are leaking, imperfections in the bottom seal surface copper can normally be corrected with a piece of dowel and sandpaper.
My 2003T has 10,000 hours on it, still going well. But it is well maintained....