It sounds like the last post is saying dniello shouldn't go because he(/she) and partner can't afford a new boat, cuz $50K isn't going to buy a new boat big enough to go offshore
in ready to go condition, and by big enough I mean big enough to not induce homicidal cabin
fever with a partner.
I disagree with the premise that you need a new boat or even a name brand cuising boat (ie. Valiant, Westsail, Pacific Seacraft) to go offshore
. I think a lot of the mid-60's to early-70's production boats would be just fine going around the world even. From the mid-70's on a lot more discretion (sic) is needed because of the effect new racing
rules had on boat shape and scantlings in general purpose boats generally.
A quick and dirty way to get an idea of how well a boat was built is to look at the weight of the boat. Pick a length then look at the weights of all makes and models +/- 1' in length from target length. A slight refinement would be to look at hull
weight (ie. total displacement
minus ballast). A spreadsheet will do this quite easily. There are some caveats like don't include cored hulls and while heavier boats will generally be stronger, quality of build also makes a difference but that is a much more subjectively evaluated issue. Fortunately few if any production boats from the mid-60's to early-70's were cored.
Having picked a size I would use the list of boats to eliminate the ones that are significantly lighter than their peers. I would then spring for an hour of time from 3 different surveyors just to ask them questions about boat construction quality for the ones still on the list. Then compare what they all said about each model. I'd want surveyors who have been working 10-20 and have seen a lot of different boats first hand. The surveyors would also be good for advice on what if anything to beef up in the hull
Any boat that is bought should be surveyed. The surveyor
will indicate all the damage in the boat that needs to be repaired.