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Old 12-01-2009, 06:55   #16
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Also,
I understand you never run your engine above 2000 RPM? That engine is rated for continuous duty at 3200 RPM. You must be able to acheive this underway at full throttle. If not prop adjustments should be made.
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Yes, it can reach about 2.900 rpm, what i meant was that my ordinary cruises rpm are 2.000, thank you for your replay.
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Old 12-01-2009, 21:07   #17
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I'm a bit baffled by all this...it just seems that if the engine is up to temp...then that’s the temp!!

Have you checked to see if you have an air lock in the exchanger coil in you water heater?

Is it by chance higher than your engine?

I'm not sure how this would explain it working when you’re actually underway?

I’m betting on a vapor lock!
James S

You were responding to someone else but in any case how can I determine if I have a vapor lock in the heat exchanger? The heat exchanger, an after market device, is slightly above the engine. What are your recommendations for obtaining more hot water?

marty1929
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Old 12-01-2009, 21:19   #18
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Marty,

Since you came to this thread I removed your other one. It was in the wrong section and this one has a lot of the info you need.
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Old 13-01-2009, 01:11   #19
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If the heat exchanger (HE) inside your water heater is higher than the coolant level in your engine it will accumulate air (as its the highest point in the system).

Your best indication of the location of the HE is the inlet and outlet points on the WH to/from the engine.

Sometimes the water heater can be rotated...this may lower the HE enough to put it below your engines coolant level.

I don’t know how I would try and determine if there was in fact an air lock. But if the HE is higher I would assume it does exist.

Something else that would cause your WH to not get hot could be as simple as an obstruction or kink in either of the two lines running to/from the engine.

The quality of this hose is a big consideration…it can look fine on the outside but be delaminated and falling apart on the inside.

I’m no expert…I hope this helps.
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Old 13-01-2009, 05:08   #20
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My boat didn't come with a hot water system so I got one of these. You can plumb the heater part in super easy and have hot water on the hook without all the engine fuss. Or leave it in stand alone mode. I use mine to wash the deck when it's cold out...
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• Stunning full color label on rugged plastic storage case
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Old 13-01-2009, 05:13   #21
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If the heat exchanger (HE) inside your water heater is higher than the coolant level in your engine it will accumulate air (as its the highest point in the system).

Your best indication of the location of the HE is the inlet and outlet points on the WH to/from the engine.

Sometimes the water heater can be rotated...this may lower the HE enough to put it below your engines coolant level.

I don’t know how I would try and determine if there was in fact an air lock. But if the HE is higher I would assume it does exist.

Something else that would cause your WH to not get hot could be as simple as an obstruction or kink in either of the two lines running to/from the engine.

The quality of this hose is a big consideration…it can look fine on the outside but be delaminated and falling apart on the inside.

I’m no expert…I hope this helps.
james,
Most of this is negated due to him getting hot water underway.
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Old 13-01-2009, 05:27   #22
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This is in response to Marty1929....

As far as the other question goes…it may apply…when the rpm is increased thus the rate of circulation…it may have a positive effect on the volume actually going through the HE.

My advice may be worth what was paid for it.
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Old 13-01-2009, 05:33   #23
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sorry, I didn't realize there are two threads going in this one.
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Old 13-01-2009, 06:33   #24
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Tonick,
I had the same problem with the 2002 (same cooling system) in my Redwing. I solved it by putting a tee at the water heater inlet fitting, with a vertical mounted shut-off valve which I used to fill the fresh water cooling loop. One would think that with the delivery out of the engine high up in the block, near the thermostat, and the return lower into the circulating pump, that self-purging would take place. Apparently not. Excess coolant sooned showed up in the overflow tank.
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Old 13-01-2009, 06:49   #25
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Then when you opened the normal fill cap on the engine to check the level would it overflow from the water heaters HE?

I thought the coolant would only over flow into the tank do to excess pressure i.e. high temp. when the cap is closed?
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Old 13-01-2009, 13:35   #26
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Blue Stocking. I supose you read, I have no problems to get hot water when motoring on navigation, my problem is in idle.

Sorry but my English is limited and i can not understand exactly, the sistem you described, could you send any diagram or picture?. Thank you very much.
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Old 14-01-2009, 01:12   #27
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Tonick
I still dont see where you have answered this question, What is your engines temperature when at Idle?
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Old 14-01-2009, 05:03   #28
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I did this about 10 years ago on my previous boat. My problem was that the heat exchanger in the water heater was higher than the engine so I could not get the air out by filling at the engine. I put a pipe T, a long vertical pipe nipple and a gate valve, at the heat exchanger return line, which was the top fitting of the two, and filled the system thru this valve with the engine running. Air purged out thru the valve.
When the system heated up, the expanded liquid moved to the overflow tank. I don't recall having hot water problems after this.

James S--Yes ,it would overflow. My pre-start procedure was to always check my drip pan for coolant leakage.
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Old 14-01-2009, 05:13   #29
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If there heater is located above the engine it would be impossible to fill the water without having air in the system. I am not sure this would prevent circulation, but it would have air bubbles in the circuit. And I don't know why speeds above idle (underway) would induce more heating except that the speed of circulation would increase and so more water would be incontact with the heat exchanger and less air bubbles over a given span of time. Air is not going to work well in the water tank heat exchanger. But wouldn't this also prevent cooling and lead to engine overheating as when your coolant is low?

Questions:

Is the engine fresh water or raw water cooled?

if fresh water, where is the over flow tank and filler for the coolant / antifreeze (height related to the engine)?

Where is the water heater (height related to engine)?

What is the engine temp gauge reading at idle? If it's below normal temp the water won't be hot.
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Old 14-01-2009, 14:18   #30
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In my boat, raw water cooled, the calorifier is at the same height than the engine or maybe lower. But the question more surprising for me is that on navigation, I get really very hot water easilly. I understand that at iddle, the engine takes more time to get high temperature. Buy after one hour at iddle, I think, it should be on its work temperature. I haven,t water temp gauge.
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