is square sectioned of spruce-looking wood with external halyards and a two inch square wire chase up the middle. Never had any rot
but I have been liberal with CPES and epoxy
every time its been off the boat. It is deck-stepped in a very heavy s/s support. Under the deck
is an substantial arched support of laminated ply and the framing of the head
and handing locker create a box structure below this. The head
door has never binded so I know the stay compression
doesn't flex the deck.
size is smallish - a self-draining foot well of about five by three with the seats a little less than six feet, seats at deck level with high coamings for backrests and to keep green water
out. The companion way sill is at deck level so the front of the foot well ends as a bridge deck. The size and drainage are such that I have not worried about taking a full cockpit of water from a boarding sea. The double-ender design has always seemed to keep following seas from breaking on us more than a time or two. A good one person cockpit to brace into and be able to reach all the sheets
. A second person is acceptable if they have a reason to be there. More than two people not good except at anchor
is too flat over the encapsulated ballast (concrete and s/s machine punchings below a fiberglass
covering). I have mostly solved
that problem by "digging" a 10" by 10" sump into the ballast at the low point of the bilge (sealed with epoxy) and mounting the primary bilge pump
in the sump.
Engine access is as good as it could be in a 32ft sailboat. The entire front of the engine is exposed with the engine box joinery is disassembled (designed like a jigsaw puzzle - no fasteners required). There is about a foot on each side of the engine. The back of the engine, tranny, exhaust
and stuffing box are reached thru a 24" aluminum
man-hole cover (heavily dogged) in the bottom of the footwell. There is a teak
grate that covers the whole footwell and effectively hides the hatch
cover. I am having more problems working in the "hole" than I did 30 years ago, but can still do it.
The hull form and the weight guarantee a stiff boat. It takes about 10kt breeze to get to a 5-8 degree heel and then it stiffens up hard. Probably won't see 15-20 degrees of heel until 25-30 knots unless you are overpowering the boat. The outboard rudder
and tiller allow you to really feel for balance and trim accordingly. We use an Autohelm 3000 autopilot
and the unit moves very little and not very often in most wind
and wave conditions. Never had a hobby horse that was more than wave pattern dictated, i.e. not undamped.
Not asked- but the ice box is not adequate OK size about 5 cu ft - but just ripped it out and found only two inchs of plain white styrofoam under the stainless steel
skin. Explains the three Adler Barbours I have killed over the years. Going to Seafrost holding plate system and so will need to beef up the insulation
a lot - which will be a trick without really modifying the cabinetry. (following the Aerogel thread with intense interest)
Also not asked - headroom
is about 5' 10" except in the galley
area where a dog-house takes it to about 6' 3" (I am 5'8" so never been an issue) Not all the Aries
have had the dog-house aft in the cabin
so than would be an issue for people carrying excess height.