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Old 23-12-2009, 07:07   #76
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I guess I'm a bit old fashioned, but I'm okay with that...


- John
Largely agree with much of yours… not all super high priorities for me in some cases, but I share your mistrust of roller-furling (in truth I have reservations about techno-gizmos in general) and esthetically I’m on a similar wave-length, although I (think I) lean toward the chunkier look of a Hess or Welsford design, if they’d done a design in your range… with plumb bow and conservative transom stern, could easily approach seven tons on your 32’ on deck and still be at or below a 250 D/L, which to my mind is as delicate as I’d care to go for these general models – indeed at a D/L similar to that of my current, it would approach a nine or ten ton displacement, which ought to be enough capacity for nearly anyone not cruising with all the in-laws…
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Old 23-12-2009, 10:44   #77
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Thanks for the links.

Almost twenty years ago, I had occasion to sail one of his Southern Cross 35s from Cape Canaveral to Port liberty, NJ in a nine-day trip. A nice boat that took good care of us.

In keeping with the theme of this thread, the previous owner's "modifications" and "oversights" caused a lot of trouble. Back to the human component.
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Old 23-12-2009, 16:10   #78
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I love roller furling when it works but hate it when it jams. I have had about equal doses of each.

To me, this "system" is a classic illustration of love-hate.
Mine seems to jam far to often. I think that I don't keep enough tension on the furling line when I unfurl it and the loose wraps then jam if I have any tension when trying to roll it back up.

Is this what you experience or something else?
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Old 23-12-2009, 17:41   #79
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Roller furling jams are often the the result of a bad entry angle on the RF pennant. If the pennant does not go onto the spool at the right angle (right angles to the axis of rotation) the pennant will override and jam. Adjust the position of the fairlead block.

Another problem is the wrong size/type pennant. Probably simply using more expensive line will do it. (insert chuckling boat owners) Seriously, double braid did not work on one system but stiffer parallel core cordage did.

Of course the line must be under tension when the sail is unrolled. Not a lot of tension but enough to get the wraps to roll onto the RF drum smoothly. Watch the pennant as you operate the system. Leave the pennant under load while sailing.

We have hanks on Averisera on purpose. But she is a small boat.
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Old 23-12-2009, 19:15   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcstrng View Post
Largely agree with much of yours… not all super high priorities for me in some cases, but I share your mistrust of roller-furling (in truth I have reservations about techno-gizmos in general) and esthetically I’m on a similar wave-length, although I (think I) lean toward the chunkier look of a Hess or Welsford design, if they’d done a design in your range… with plumb bow and conservative transom stern, could easily approach seven tons on your 32’ on deck and still be at or below a 250 D/L, which to my mind is as delicate as I’d care to go for these general models – indeed at a D/L similar to that of my current, it would approach a nine or ten ton displacement, which ought to be enough capacity for nearly anyone not cruising with all the in-laws…
I'd love a Hess, but you can't touch them. The Pardeys and "Best Boats" have pushed the demand for them too high. The "Blue Moon" has a similar hull shape, and Larry helped to build one:

Tansy Lee

It's the best I can afford, and she's all paid for (yay!)

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Old 26-12-2009, 14:18   #81
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I'd love a Hess, but you can't touch them...
Yep on the Hess, pity but attractive nonetheless… I just stumbled upon the Atkins Fore `n Aft Cutter (28’8”) plans, which although somewhat smaller than your Gilmer cutter, at between eight and nine tons the Atkins is right in the sweet-spot of where I’d like to be and seems vaguely reminiscent of both – albeit with a tad more svelte stern than the Hess…

I may have to think on this a bit…

See: http://www.atkinboatplans.com/
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Old 26-12-2009, 17:22   #82
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Mine seems to jam far to often.
Well, mine is a Plastimo 609, I got it used. Has been good for 7 years and took me round the world - without jamming.

But I have seen Profurl giving recurrent headaches (joining screws coming undone) and Bamar too.


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Old 26-12-2009, 17:34   #83
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Barnakiel:
I missed the part where you tell us what you sailed around the world. Share again?
Norm
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Old 26-12-2009, 18:15   #84
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Norman:

An Allegro27

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Old 26-12-2009, 18:34   #85
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Here ya go!

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Old 26-12-2009, 18:43   #86
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Cool! Yours?

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Old 27-12-2009, 06:31   #87
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I think this thread has posed only half a question. You need to complete it by defining the intended use. I know everyone says this all the time, and it starts to sound trite, but it's true. The perfect long-range cruising boat for the Bahamas is very different than the best one for the south Pacific. It's like asking, what's the best motor vehicle? For the autobahn you might say Ferrari, but if you are looking for a car to take the kids to school in the snow you might choose something else (personally I'd stick with the Ferrari, but that's me).
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Old 27-12-2009, 08:10   #88
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Oooops!

So 'long range' does not mean long range? How strange ;-)

A "long - range - Bahama" sounds to me like you are calling from Oz.

So, to explain my take on long range: it is the canoe that one can sail extensively, offshore, across oceans and with autonomy of at least 100 days, preferably more. It should be able to sail to standard destinations in the good time of the season. As a minimum (say anything between summer Antarctic and Spitzbergen and all in betweens). The polar regions because of the word 'perfect' used in the original post. I agree to drop them if the perfect boat can be less than perfect.

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Old 27-12-2009, 08:29   #89
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What do you look for in a long range cruising yacht ?
I look for storage space, good sea berths, good ventilation comfortable cockpit small sails shallow draft, not to much windage, large tankage All of these are items that a LRC need to be comfortable IMO. And it don't cost a lot to have this, unless you want a newer or fancy "yacht".


What boats do you admire ? Not a good question IMO for what your looking for. The ones I admire are not obtainable by me due to their great cost. But the sundeer, deerfoot boats by dashew and his beowolf in aluminum are great boats. Anything by kelly archer. Kanter.


What features do you like in existing designs ?



What features do you dislike in existing designs ? designs cover a enormous amount of territory. Impossible to answer here in a short thread.

But getting the biggest boat you can handle, with the larges tankage for water, fuel and stores, with the lowest maintaince, and the ability to handle heavy weather without to much damage... they say you mostly expirence light airs cruising, but its the heavy airs that can get you.

Many boats have been used to range off shore. My 27' norsea has circumnavigated by a family. Many many 60-80' and beyound yachts are sitting in marinas going nowhere. you could get a 30-40' now for next to nothing here after Katrina, spend some time fixing her up.. .and go. But if you have the cash, and are willing to spend it, look at the dashew boats on yachtworld. If you can afford that, you will not be dissapointed I think. Just ask Jedi, he has one.
But I like my Endeavour 40. I believe that for the price, it will suite me just fine. If I had more cash... a later model valiant 40. tayana 37. Kelly peterson 44. Mason 43/44. shannons. Morgan 38. lots of good boats out there. Some at low prices. Just be prepared to spend a lot of time and some cash to make her your own.

Bob
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Old 27-12-2009, 10:58   #90
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Danial brings up a Good Point..
If you are going to sail the milk run, and use both Cannals in your rounding, then a boat built not so robust will do just fine But on the other hand, If you are going to sail in the higher lattitudes and play tag with an Ice flow or two, I'd start thinking of a steel hull..
For us, we have no need to explore the colder weather so ours fits the perfect yacht, For us that is..
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